Mowing Deck Restoration

[Rayp 15]

After wet sandblasting and/or rust treatment my deck needs to be washed prior to welding/painting. Is there a product to spray on after drying the deck to prevent rerusting which can be welded and or painted over without having to first remove it?

[meadowfield 2,570]

Hi,

Kurust type products work well.

Mark

[wheeledhorseman 574]

Hi Ray (I guess)

 

First off looks to me as though there's a little more work to do first in that I try and get rid of rather more of the brown stuff before treatment, particularly on the outside. I've found one of these to be amazing.

 

 

It's an Oakey abrasive wheel from B&Q or other suppliers and it really gets the surface back to steel almost as good as dry shot blasting. The only down side is that these shred easily if you encounter a sharp edge.

 

Even then treatment is essential - I favour products containing phosphoric acid rather than fancier ones that magically change colour but something that converts any remaining rust, which is an oxide and holds water in its crystalline structure that you cannot remove by drying into to phosphate.

 

The underside of the deck will always to an extent be a lost cause whatever you use to treat and then paint. Unless you are just regularly trimming a neatly manicured flat lawn, only ever cutting when the grass is dry, then the speed at which the blades spin will fling grit and small stones at the paint inevitably shot blasting through both paint and the treatment underneath. I've tried all sorts of treatments and paints but basically over winter the deck has to come off for cleaning and dealing with any damage to the finish used.

 

Cutting long wet grass, which I've had to do quite a lot earlier this season means getting all the soggy stuff off that builds up underneath after every mow - a foul PITA job that's just about manageable without taking the deck off but it does help to reduce deterioration under the deck after all the work you've put into it.

 

Just a few thoughts - Andy

 

 

Edited June 15, 2014 by wheeledhorseman

[ih674 10]

Hi,

Kurust type products work well.

Mark

Next door neighbour used kurust on the outside of his quad fuel tank, looked impressive stuff. He coated it with submarine paint (from work!). Time will tell how it lasts as the bike gets used for fishing in Morecambe bay.

 

James

[Jparkes43 329]

I used kurust on some of my projects (including a gate) and it worked really well you just paint it on and let it do it's job and then you paint over it with the colour you want.

James

Edited June 16, 2014 by Jparkes43

[Jparkes43 329]

Here you go I got a photo of the kurust bottle for you amd a picture of the gate (the gate isn't I'm the fence because were moving house and my mum wants to keep it.

Hope you find it useful James

Plus the kurust is by

hamerite

Sorry about them being twisted the iPad decided to do that

Edited June 16, 2014 by Jparkes43

[Anglo Traction 761]

Hello Ray, good progress on the Deck Shell. I have to get around to doing the same at some stage.

I agree with the guy's suggestions here and the materials quoted (i.e. Kurust or Trustan 24) , they are tried and tested.

In answer to your question and assuming you are removing more of the rust before prepping for paint,

rather than neutralising it with a rust treatment, then you can't do much better than use a 'Weld Through Etch Primer'.  

Alternatively do the weld repairs first, then de-rust, treat and prime straight after when thoroughly dry.

Regards

[Rayp 15]

Thank you all for your helpful advice.  I have wet sanblasted some smaller parts back to clean steel, but before they were completely dried surface rust had began to appear so I may try a Kurust type treatment or clean again and Etchweld.  I will also get some of the suggested wheels from B & Q. and will post more pictures as I slowly progress.

[Jparkes43 329]

Thank you all for your helpful advice.  I have wet sanblasted some smaller parts back to clean steel, but before they were completely dried surface rust had began to appear so I may try a Kurust type treatment or clean again and Etchweld.  I will also get some of the suggested wheels from B & Q. and will post more pictures as I slowly progress.

Hope your restoration goes well

James

[Anglo Traction 761]

Thank you all for your helpful advice.  I have wet sanblasted some smaller parts back to clean steel, but before they were completely dried surface rust had began to appear so I may try a Kurust type treatment or clean again and Etchweld.

That may explain your issue with quick rusting. I'm not familiar with Wet Sandblasting. (Ever noticed how quick your cleaned Brake Discs rust in high humidity).

You'll get most of that rusting off if you dry sand it or Rotary Wire Brush it on a warm sunny day so the metal heats up, then treat the pitting with kurust and sand off the surplus when dry before priming.

 

The guy that does some of my steel parts and panels uses Dry Powder only.

We have an arrangement where he Blasts my pre repaired panels, sends me Text to say they are ready while he stores them in a warm dry air room.

I pick them up wrapped and untouched, allow myself 10 mins to get them back and prime/seal, before any oxidisation occurs.

Alternatively, they are Blasted and either Primed or Powder Coated onsite.

 

Lastly, I'm not sure how I get away with it, but the panels and parts I clean back to shiny metal by hand on some of my projects seem to stay bright without rusting for a long long time . It may be that a finer smoother surface resists oxidisation more or there is minute surface layer of oils still on it before degreasing  .

Either way , look forward to seeing the results of your efforts which may inspire me to do mine  .