rmaynard 15,590 #1 Posted June 11, 2014 I have a slot hitch that has holes that don't line up. When I removed the hitch, the pin would not budge in the hitch arms, but would rotate in the transmission. So I had to cut the pin on both sides between the transmission and the hitch arms. The long piece in the transmission came out easily, but the two pieces in the hitch had to be driven out. So assuming that the hitch got bent while installed on the tractor, can it be bent back without breaking? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uncle Buck 246 #2 Posted June 11, 2014 You can if you put enough heat to it, but that is going to be a WHOLE LOTTA HEAT! Don't even think about it cold, that ain't gonna happen, it will snap like a twig. Maybe you could re-bore it instead? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
546cowboy 301 #3 Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) The simple answer is NO! What you can do is run a drill bit though and try to line up the holes so you can put what looks lie a 3/4" bar through easily. That is what it looks like in your picture. A bit that size is not cheap but you may be able to borrow one from a hardware store or auto parts. The only way you could try to bend it would be by heating it with a acetylene torch and if you use too much heat the cast can crystalize and break easily. Edited June 11, 2014 by 546cowboy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #4 Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) you can bend it back without heating I have done it many times the arms bent when you drove the pin pieces out work from both sides back and forth does not take much of a tweek to line the holes back up Brian Edited June 11, 2014 by buckrancher 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #5 Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) Risky business trying to bend cast iron, hot or cold. Suggest you ream the two holes simultaneously with a long reamer to obtain proper alignment of both holes. It should not need a whole lot of reaming, but it might require that you fit a slightly larger diameter pin. Re reamers- http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piece-adjustable-hand-reamer-set-38577.html Edited June 11, 2014 by tarcoleo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #6 Posted June 11, 2014 this is cast steel not Iron there's a big differance 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,590 #7 Posted June 11, 2014 Thanks all. I do have a spare just in case it does decide to break instead of bend. I will follow up with results tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,758 #8 Posted June 11, 2014 I have straightened many of these slot hitches. Make it red hot with acetelyne and allow to air dry....otherwise it may become brittle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #9 Posted June 11, 2014 By all means, use a reamer. You might ask a local machine shop to ream it for you. The cost would be low and of course worth the effort. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,590 #10 Posted June 11, 2014 daveoman1966 - I don't have a torch, so heat is not an option at this time. Tankman - taking it to a shop would cost more than buying another good used one. Machine shops around here are not cheap. As I said, I have a spare, so I am going to try tweaking it. Sent from my Moto G using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #11 Posted June 11, 2014 I've fixed many of them, I use heat, and a old steering shaft to put it where I want. then when the shaft slides in both sides I'm done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dclarke 4,033 #12 Posted June 11, 2014 I've tweaked 'em before with a big brass hammer and a vice. Maybe I got lucky. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #13 Posted June 11, 2014 Bob if you put the pin in and check the gap at the other side be sure to check it from both sides all you may need to do is squeeze it a little in a vise and the holes should line up brian 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #14 Posted June 11, 2014 Hey Bob, if you know somebody with a press, this can easily be done. You really don't need much movement to get it re-aligned. Even if not perfect, you could turn one end down to get it to go in. I agree with Brian, it was aligned once before, and got bent. No real reason why you can't bend it back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brrly1 1,146 #15 Posted June 11, 2014 Bob, a real easy Super solution has evolved. Use the other one, I'll bet this is for a tractor your bringing to the show so I would really expect the paint to be dry and it'll be on or in your trailer when we see you next Thursday. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,590 #16 Posted June 11, 2014 Okay, so after all the input and suggestions, I have chosen Brian's suggestion to give the hitch a few strategic raps with the hammer and... Voilà ...it can be done. And with minimal paint damage as well. Thanks! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brrly1 1,146 #19 Posted June 11, 2014 See you in eight days! Don't shoot the sawman! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdleach 525 #20 Posted June 13, 2014 Yup, probably cast steel. The cross sectional area of the arms is really too small to be cast iron, and the slot pretty much rules a forging out. Steel. Cast steel, in fact any cast metal, tends to be brittle. The rolling process in a steel mill tends to align the molecules, and impart toughness. That said, cast steel, stainless, brass and bronze, etc, will more readily bend, hot or cold, than cast iron, you just don't want to bend it very far. When looking at a part that appears to be cast, there are a few easy tests that anyone can do to determine just what the part is. If magnetic, it is ferrous-based, and either iron, or any number of steels or stainless (your lower grades of stainless are indeed often cast, and will be magnetic). A forging will many times visually resemble a casting, but will almost always be steel. Also, forged shapes tend to be simple, think U-joints, wrenches, hammer heads, tie-rod ends, etc. If you have determined the part to be a ferrous casting, grind a little off with a sander, bench grinder, etc., and look closely at the spark pattern. Steel will emit a copious shower of bright yellow sparks. If cast iron, the sparks will be much more muted, shorter in length, and duller. The difference is easily discernable. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #21 Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) See entry below. Edited June 13, 2014 by tarcoleo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swarfeater 49 #22 Posted June 13, 2014 cast iron would never be used for this application, it would break with the first good load put on it, a smack with a hammer will do the trick. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #23 Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_iron In this article there is a table showing the properties of various grades of cast iron. The elongation properties of the malleable and ductile grades suggest that one of these is the material used for the slot hitch. Its not likely that the grey or white grades of cast iron were used. (Tried to print the table above earler but it didn 't come out right.) Edited June 13, 2014 by tarcoleo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdleach 525 #24 Posted June 13, 2014 Should have mentioned ductile and malleable tarcoleo, that would work in this application too. You used to often find malleable in things like "C" clamps. Good call. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #25 Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) Not to beat this topic into the ground, but "steel castings" tend to involve highly alloyed steel in order to obtain increased heat or corrosion resistance. Edited June 13, 2014 by tarcoleo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites