leeave96 487 #26 Posted June 12, 2014 Here's what I think of seafoam. Does it work - IMHO, can't hurt. I use both seafoam and MMO. I think of seafoam as a cleaner and MMO as an upper cylinder lubricant. I use seafoam occasionally and MMO in every tank. Does it work? Again - don't really know. The BIGGEST reason I use the stuff is, again, it can't hurt, but for me it's part of the fun of kind of checking out of the real world and back into the past, along with the old iron tractors. I'm sure if my grandfather would have bought a Wheelhorse, he'd be dumping something in the gas. I have a friend whose grandfather worked at a Ford dealership for about 40 years and swore my MMO. My friend and my self think - well if it was good enough for them, it's good enough for us. So - I say, use the treatment you like and don't look back! It's all good! Bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,698 #27 Posted June 12, 2014 After reading this thread, and we have done this before, I want to add that I do use Sea Foam in my gas for the tractors and for the boat. I like the Snake Oil thing though. I am going to take some masking tape and re-label all my cans of Sea Foam in the garage. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #28 Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) Also I cannot see or have some concerns using it in the oil long term vs a add run for a bit, then change oil proper product? seem somewhat accurate to others results?? Amanda.. I'm glad you revisited the topic of cleaner additives in the oil. I failed to address your concern on my initial response. My personal choice would be NOT to routinely use cleaner / additives in the oil. The only reason I might consider using a "sludge remover" in the oil is if you ( or the previous owner) were using non - detergent oil. Non-detergent oil allows all collected contaminants to settle to the bottom of your oil pan. I might consider a once a year cleaning of the bottom of the oil pan by draining the dirty oil, closing the drain tube and putting a pint or so of "sludge remover" into the oil pan. I would NOT start the engine but let the sludge remover sit for several hours and then rock the tractor back and forth to remix the cleaner and the sludge and let the cleaner sit for a few more hours. Then drain the cleaner and sludge from the pan and refill with clean engine oil. Again, this process only applies to engines fed a constant diet of non detergent oil. If you use detergent oil (which I'm thinking 98% of us do), the contaminants stay suspended in the oil and are drained out with the oil change. Please feel free to ask questions. Chuck Edited June 13, 2014 by Save Old Iron 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #29 Posted June 14, 2014 Amanda I would pay attention to what Save Old Iron wrote. He has articulated just what you can expect from the proper use of this product as long as you use it properly and have reasonable expectations. Personally I have used the product on several occasions but not on a regular basis. The only fuel I can purchase in my area has ethanol and I see no reason to add Sea Foam to that on a regular basis. As for the oil. I would never do that. Oil manufactured today add everything an engine needs to stay clean and keep it well lubricated. The only thing you need to worry about is using the right viscosity. When it gets close to the end of the season, I make sure to leave no fuel in the tank, use the cutoff valve to use up the fuel in the gas line and fog the carburetor to keep the engine running long enough to get any remaining fuel burned up. Did this all the time with 2 cycle outboard motors and never had a problem when starting them in the spring. What ever fuel I have left in the tank and gas cans is used for the generator or goes into the truck. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,478 #30 Posted June 14, 2014 Thats my problem. There is no ethanol free gas in my area. Clicky > E-Free-Gas 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #31 Posted June 14, 2014 i fall into the "meh, can't hurt" camp. i've had good luck with it in gas on old carb motorcycles that needed a little cleaning, but probably not a full rebuild (or i didn't feel like a full rebuild) but, like most things, i didn't take the time to tear it down before hand, and then after to compare - because if i am going to tear it down, then i'm going to do the job "right" i stopped using it and started using B-12 chemtool when it became so expensive. i do like to use MMO in moderation in my oil on small engines, and it did seem to help with clattering in the top end on cold start ups, but that is anecdotal. i've also used moly additive to new, higher mileage car and truck motors to eliminate similar chattering (most recently helped significantly quiet the infamous triton tick on my F350) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites