Tiller mounting problem

[oe espo 32]

I bought a tiller for my 312A, no ID tags. Couldn't get it in the rear axle mount. Loosened the mount moved over slightly and got it in the mount. Its still loose. Manual says to center the Axle brackets. The tiller is not centered on the rear tires. Should it be? Also won't lift up more than the tines about 1 1/2" from floor. Seems low and something is hitting the rear end to go any higher. Any suggestions appreciated

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[groundhog47 347]

 Could you get us a picture with it as mentioned. Are you using a chain or cable from rocker to tiller lift point? Is lift handle all the way back toward operator to get the 1 1/2' lift? Also do you have your draw bar hitch or other trans hitch attachments off? If hydraulic lift, make sure no interference and lift hole on bell correct (believe should be bottom). 

I would think prob for best performance should be on center, but on subsequent passes one side would be in tilled soil and other in untilled no matter which way unless wider than wheel width, like 50" tiller might be.

Edited April 30, 2014 by groundhog47

[oe espo 32]

Pictures tomorrow. Long evening in the garage. 2/0 chain from rocker to middle hole on tiller bracket. I'm guessing on height. Had wheels on and off. Handle was latched and tines where off the ground but seemed only barely. 36" tiller. Outside of tin on RH side is 2.5" past tire. LH side is 1" inside of rear tire towards centerline.

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[groundhog47 347]

Pictures tomorrow. Long evening in the garage. 2/0 chain from rocker to middle hole on tiller bracket. I'm guessing on height. Had wheels on and off. Handle was latched and tines where off the ground but seemed only barely. 36" tiller. Outside of tin on RH side is 2.5" past tire. LH side is 1" inside of rear tire towards centerline.

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Can you engage into a link or two back or does this cause lift before engaging any lift (slack in lift system). Not sure about middle hole, try another away from tractor or higher as it may be. 

Just in case are both wheels same distance from transmission (does one axel stick out of wheel or are both =). Does your tiller have a lift assist spring in eye bolt that attaches to axel bracket and does it have a lift bar on mount bracket or a bracket on tiller shield over tines(helps date it)

Edited April 30, 2014 by groundhog47

[daveoman1966 3,745]

There are two styles of 36" Tillers and one of them is NOT for the 312A tractor.  It is for much older model tractors from the mid 60s to mid 70s and the front connecting bar on is has an offset that MAY be your whole issue.  

 

Have a look at these pics and you'll see what I mean.  Please excuse the pics....I borrowed them from ebay listings and are the best representations I could find at the time. NOTE.... the difference in the mounting bar and the whole bracket too, as CIRCLED.  If you bought one of these older tillers, you MAY be able to change the mounting bar(s) hardware to upgrade it to the later style. 

Edited April 30, 2014 by daveoman1966

[nhunt308 143]

sounds like the same problem i have, bought a rt-366 tiller and im trying to put it on a 312-8. It does not fit if you find a place to buy the correct mount please post it, i am having trouble talking myself into hacking up the current mount i would rather pass it along to someone in need.

[Rideking 32]

I just converted an rt-336 tiller to run on my 310-8. To make it work you'll have to swap out the old hitch for the newer style in the bottom picture - easy to do. However you'll also have to swap out the input shaft - the newer models had a longer shaft to center up the large pulley on the tiller with the mule drive / clear the rear hitch. Swapping the input shaft isn't hard but you'll have to split the tiller case to do it.

[sorekiwi 761]

I also have converted an RT 366 for use on a later tractor.

 

Here is a pic of the mounting frames on the front of the tiller.  The shorter one is the one from the RT366.

 

 

I didnt move my pulley on the input shaft, but I am using the old style, 2 belt type of belt drive system.

 

 

I was also reluctant to cut up the original RT366 mounting frame, so I purchased a later model one from Kelly.  There are plenty of tillers with worn out tines on them, I would think it would be possible to get a later model mount fairly easily.

Edited May 1, 2014 by sorekiwi

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,175]

Good info about tillers here.  Thanks!     But, I must be honest, I didn't know about this difference between the RT366 either.   And , I have always thought that there was only one single type of pulley/belt system for these tillers.   So, may I ask here oe espo and anybody who knows...can you mount a tiller on the back of a mid sixties short frame tractor? (i.e. 856, 857 etc)   and what would the belt/pulley system look like?   and what is this "two belt" type of belt drive system Mike has mentioned above?  just curious to know and educate myself while someday hoping to maybe acquire one of these early model tillers.  or is that just wishful thinking?

Edited May 1, 2014 by Terry M

[oe espo 32]

Didn't get in the garage, and heading out of town. But thanks to all the info I do have the 70 & later mounting frame.

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[Racinbob 11,035]

You can use the older tiller (upper pic) such as the 7-1211 on a newer tractor without modification. You need the correct axle mounted bracket for the older tiller. It has the idler pulley on it and, if I remember correctly, the bar on the tiller mounted a bit further back. Don't install the idler assembly under the front of the seat. Utilize the newer style idler assembly in the mid tach-a-matic under the engine. You'll need a different length belt and I don't have a clue how long anymore. This setup eliminates the major hassle of moving the running board out and the added belt guard and makes installation and removal much easier. Basically a new style belt system with an old style tiller. I did this on my C160 because I got a smoking deal on the tiller. If I recall, doing the math it even sped up the tine RPM a little bit. I used this setup for many years. Oh yea, for the lift I used bar stock in the slot hitch connected to the tiller.

[oe espo 32]

Seems like if i center between hubs tiller bracket its case? Its offset now but moves more. Im a newbie. The diff/hydro is an 1100 conversion supposedly from a 416 H

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[chazm 413]

NO expert here ,but 1 option would be to add metal shims between axle housing & quick attach bracket  

 

[groundhog47 347]

Check this manual out, may be of some help, yours looks to be 76 or newer model:  you can decide whether or not this covers problem, mainly just how it hooks up! You also have the 7-1252 lift arm (104823 #57) so may have been converted by adding the lift plate (105549 #42) from the next year, 67-36tl01. It didn't have the lift arm.   

 

The 86 if your 312-A is an 86 uses same set up except 4 chain links and hooks to bottom hole in lift plate, IPL follows: The mount bracket is almost identical fro 76 to 86 at least.  

 

May need to move bracket (axel mounting) to left so angled brace on tiller tow bar will miss tran case.

Edited May 2, 2014 by groundhog47

[daveoman1966 3,745]

Just a thought:  -------------

It looks like you MAY have an Axle Bracket that is too narrow.  That is, it MAY have been broken at one time (common), then repaired to narrow.  Given that, it will not fit the axle to accommodate hooking up the tiller.  One of you pics seems to suggest that.

Here is a pic of the axle bracket...it is 11 1/2" inches wide.  Another pic is as on my C-160 with dozer blade,  in the exact position to accept a tiller...centered on the axle.  The axle tubes on the C-160 and the 312A are, essentially, the same dimensions and the axle bracket for each is part # 106459.

Edited May 2, 2014 by daveoman1966

[oe espo 32]

You guys are the best! Thanks for all the things to look for.

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[shorts 182]

And that's how a horse is supposed to look complete with paydirt on it.  Excellent photos and explanation