rustykan 140 #51 Posted October 11, 2014 Rusty Mind me asking how and what they charge for rim guard? Do they replace the rubber valve stem with a steel stem? Thanks The Rim Guard was less than $4 per gallon. I think we used around 12 gallons for both the rear tires. It weighs almost 11 pounds per gallon. No, they did not have to replace the valve stems. This stuff is not corrosive at all. It is a mixture of beet juice and molasses as far as I've been told. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fun Engineer 859 #52 Posted October 11, 2014 Thanks Rustykan. I stopped at my dealer today. he has a local commercial tire store do them and gave me their number. Hope to call Monday and get a price. I like the idea of loading the tire rather than using wheel weights or suitcase weights. Your 120 is looking great by the way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #53 Posted October 28, 2014 Thought I would post some recent photos. I am starting to run out of parts now and I think that is a good thing. Still thinking about rewiring everything. Anyone have any ideas on how to do that so it would look close as possible to original? Just finished painting the seat pan and I think that should just about finish the painting. I need to order some new knobs and such as well as new decals. Trying to spread out the purchases to keep my wife happy. She hasn't asked how much this has cost so far. I'm not really sure myself, probably don't want to know. 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #54 Posted November 2, 2014 Making a little more progress. Got the seat painted and mounted. Bought new cables for the throttle/choke and installed them. Found a couple of small parts that did not get painted and took care of that also. If the snow holds off till January and the temps stay decent, I might get it done in time! I'm waiting for a couple of wire terminals so I can finish the wiring harness and install it. Planning on buying one of the aftermarket carbs instead of rebuilding the old one. Need to order decals and some new knobs, etc. So many things to do and so little time/money! 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #55 Posted November 20, 2014 I was beginning to think this day would never come, but I actually started my tractor today! I had a few problems with my wiring harness that I had to change and issues with the fuel filter and aftermarket carb, but it fired right up today. Might need a little adjustment, but it's too cold to mess with it today. I was really worried about the wiring, but the safety switches function correctly and the only thing left to wire are the headlights. What does everyone use to clip the wires to the frame? I bought some trailer frame wire clips that look like the original, but can't seem to get them to stay on. I'm probably going to wait till spring for the decals because I don't have heat in my garage. 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fun Engineer 859 #56 Posted November 20, 2014 Nice job rustykan. Best to wait on those decals as you said. Unless you can find a friend with a heated garage [emoji2] Sent from my tractor seat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #57 Posted November 20, 2014 Tractor looks great Rusty! I use the trailer frame clips also, sometimes they are a little big. Squeeze them down with a pair of pliers and that should tighten them up a bit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kudzu3 323 #58 Posted November 20, 2014 Nice...real nice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #59 Posted November 20, 2014 Tractor looks great Rusty! I use the trailer frame clips also, sometimes they are a little big. Squeeze them down with a pair of pliers and that should tighten them up a bit. I am having the exact opposite problem. I have tried opening them up a little because they seem too small. They are too big to work on sheet metal, but too small to work on the frame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zipper 10 #60 Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) Rusty, what did you use for the two rubber bumpers under the seat pan that set on top of the fender pan? The dash came out nice, love that VHT.My wife did the white with the paint sticks on ours. Did you clear coat her, did you apply any wax, cause she shines like she's brand new ( slightly used ). REALY nice job. Zipper PS If you lived closer I'd offer my garage, you bring beer I supply the heat. Edited November 21, 2014 by zipper Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #61 Posted November 21, 2014 Rusty, what did you use for the two rubber bumpers under the seat pan that set on top of the fender pan? The dash came out nice, love that VHT.My wife did the white with the paint sticks on ours. Did you clear coat her, did you apply any wax, cause she shines like she's brand new ( slightly used ). REALY nice job. Zipper PS If you lived closer I'd offer my garage, you bring beer I supply the heat. I bought the bumpers on Ebay "Rubber Foot, Feet, Bumper, Snubber, 3/8-16 Threaded Stud, 1/2 inch Foot Size". I can't take credit for the dash. I bought it from "Kelly" on here. He did a great job! I don't have a steady enough hand or good enough eyes to do that kind of work. No, there's no clear coat or wax on it. I had a friend do the painting of the larger parts. He does body work for a living and they really are much shinier than what I painted with the Rustoleum spray cans. The color is a bit different too. Hopefully it won't be too noticeable. Thanks for the offer of the garage. I'm just glad I got it started. I was worried about it just turning over after I replaced all the wiring. This whole process was kind of scarey, taking a functioning tractor almost completely apart and putting it back together and hoping it runs! I had never done anything of this magnitude before. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #62 Posted November 21, 2014 I am having the exact opposite problem. I have tried opening them up a little because they seem too small. They are too big to work on sheet metal, but too small to work on the frame. Can you squeeze some smaller and open some up bigger? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #63 Posted November 21, 2014 Can you squeeze some smaller and open some up bigger? I haven't tried to make them smaller yet, but opening them up did not work. They will not stay on then, no matter how careful I am. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #64 Posted November 22, 2014 (edited) It sounds like they must not be made of spring steel then if you have to be that careful opening them up. Edited November 22, 2014 by Geno Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #65 Posted November 22, 2014 It sounds like they must not be made of spring steel then if you have to be that careful opening them up. They seem to be spring steel, but there is no in between with them. I got the first one to stay on without any bending, but no luck after that one. It doesn't help that the area I need one is very difficult to get at. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6.0 powerstroke 62 #66 Posted November 26, 2014 that looks really good ! are you planning on doing another once this ones done ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #67 Posted November 26, 2014 that looks really good ! are you planning on doing another once this ones done ? Not in the near future! I really don't have room for this one, let alone another one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #68 Posted December 27, 2014 OK, I need some help. Had it running twice and it just seemed like it needed some carb adjustments. I had installed one of the new aftermarket carbs. I let it warm up and shut it off and when I went to restart it, it wouldn't. Checked for spark and nothing. Any ideas???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zipper 10 #69 Posted December 27, 2014 rusty, If I remember right you replaced all the safety switchs, if you did. make sure your seating on the seat and depressing the clutch and the PTO lever is in the off postion.If that don't work try disconneting and bypassing one switch at a time till ya find the bad one, From past expenance start with the seat first (kiss meathod). then check the condenser and points Zipper Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #70 Posted December 28, 2014 rusty, If I remember right you replaced all the safety switchs, if you did. make sure your seating on the seat and depressing the clutch and the PTO lever is in the off postion.If that don't work try disconneting and bypassing one switch at a time till ya find the bad one, From past expenance start with the seat first (kiss meathod). then check the condenser and points Zipper All of the switches seem to be working. The starter will not even turn over when any of the switches are on and the tractor shuts off when not on the seat. Is that how they are supposed to work? The engine will turn over now, but no spark at the plug. These switches don't have anything to do with the spark do they? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zipper 10 #71 Posted December 28, 2014 the seat switch does control the spark as well all the other safety switches do the same. The same with the engerizing the starter. If the starter turn over, I'd check the condenser and points next, did you replace them?OEM or aftermarket ? Also check for a broken or loose ground wire breaker & condenser to ground. Electrial problems will cause you to drink. Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #72 Posted December 28, 2014 Think I found the problem. One of my spade connectors at the PTO safety switch had a loose wire. It was the wire running to the coil and I didn't have it crimped tight enough. Put on a new terminal and used a different pair of crimpers and it started right up. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 655 #73 Posted December 28, 2014 Glad you got it figured out! Looks great by the way! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zipper 10 #74 Posted December 28, 2014 And how many beers did it take?? Glade it all worked out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustykan 140 #75 Posted January 9, 2015 It might not be completely done, but it does the job I originally bought it for. It plows snow! We didn't get that much snow, but it was drifting enough that I thought I would try it out and I must say I'm impressed. The loaded tires work great and I might not even need the chains. The only thing I might do different, if there is a next time, is make the step up to hydraulics. Lifting the snow blade is quite the pain. Still need to order some knobs and my decals, but at least I can use it now. Many thanks to everyone who has helped me get this far! I didn't keep track of how much this has cost me, but I am guessing I should be well under $1500 for the total investment. More than I originally planned to spend, but I think it's a worthwhile investment. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites