C-120 Partial Restoration

[rustykan 140]

Wanted to get some opinions on the restoration of a C-120. The sheet metal is in desperate need of a paint job. It has some severe pitting, but no rust through. The hood has a dent in the front, that can probably be pounded out. I am thinking about taking of all the sheet metal and just repainting that. Should I try and get a paint to match what is left on the frame? It looks to be in pretty good shape. I will know more when I start to take it apart. I'm not looking for a show piece, but would like it to look nice. I can't see myself taking all the time to strip everything, like I have seen on some of the other restorations on this site. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Just got the new agriculture tread tires for the rear today. Anyone have a lead on reasonable tri-rib tires for the front? Cheapest I have found is $70 a piece.

 

[slammer302 2,155]

Gct.com has cheap tires its greater Cleveland tire

[rustykan 140]

GCT is where I got the rears from. Don't think they have the tri-ribs for the front.

[Martin 2,131]

Gct have the deestone d401 tri ribs.

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[AMC RULES 37,125]

Paint looks pretty good now...maybe just reshoot the hood and fender for now. 

[rustykan 140]

Which size D401 is the correct one? I like those prices!

 

If  I just repaint the hood and fenders, should I try to have the paint match the rest or just use one of the recommendations from this site?

[Martin 2,131]

if you have the early front rims the 4.00-8 work well in my opinion. they look a little stretched out on the wider fronts. not sure what the early width is off hand, but the later ones are the 5.38 x 8. heres how they look on the early rims.....

 

 

[rustykan 140]

The fronts on it now are 16X6.50-8.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

That tractor should be easy to do. Take the following parts off and repaint. Then Clean the frame tranny and front axel and paint with a spraycan or air brush. If you mask things off you can even do the engine after its clean. The below parts is what catches the eYe and you want them looking nice. I like the rims to be White cause they really POP just my opinion. Click on the pic of the 417A below thats kinda how I did her. On a tractor that runs well you dont have to take it down to the last bolt.

• Hood
• Seatpan
• Foot Rests
• Belt Gaurd & L Side panel
• Wheels

~Duke

[rustykan 140]

That tractor should be easy to do. Take the following parts off and repaint. Then Clean the frame tranny and front axel and paint with a spraycan or air brush. If you mask things off you can even do the engine after its clean. The below parts is what catches the eYe and you want them looking nice. I like the rims to be White cause they really POP just my opinion. Click on the pic of the 417A below thats kinda how I did her. On a tractor that runs well you dont have to take it down to the last bolt.

• Hood
• Seatpan
• Foot Rests
• Belt Gaurd & L Side panel
• Wheels

~Duke

What colors do you normally use? This sounds like something I can handle. I have a friend that does paint work and would be able to do the sheet metal work really nice.

if you have the early front rims the 4.00-8 work well in my opinion. they look a little stretched out on the wider fronts. not sure what the early width is off hand, but the later ones are the 5.38 x 8. heres how they look on the early rims.....

 

IMG_2262.JPG

How do I know which rims I have? The current tires are 16X6.50-8.

[Martin 2,131]

i think just by looking at your pic you have narrow rims on there. the tire you say is 6.50 wide and they look like they are on a narrow rim by the way the bead/sidewall is pulled in. you can also measure them to know for sure.

 

heres two of my tractors, both with 16 x 6.5-8 front tires. the first one is on the wider rims.....

 

 

the second is on the narrower ones. 

 

 

[rustykan 140]

i think just by looking at your pic you have narrow rims on there. the tire you say is 6.50 wide and they look like they are on a narrow rim by the way the bead/sidewall is pulled in. you can also measure them to know for sure.

 

heres two of my tractors, both with 16 x 6.5-8 front tires. the first one is on the wider rims.....

 

IMG_1105.JPG

 

the second is on the narrower ones. 

 

IMG_0705.JPG

So the 4.00-8 will work on either, but looks better on the narrow rim? I will measure the width of the rims when I get home from work on Saturday morning. I love the look of the ag treads on the rear and tri-rib on the front of your tractor!

[Desko 608]

I spy a hub that is over way to far maby a bad key way or someone beat on it with a hammer ar you just slid it over.

Edited April 3, 2014 by Desko

[rustykan 140]

Here is a front photo that shows the tires better.

 

[rustykan 140]

i think just by looking at your pic you have narrow rims on there. the tire you say is 6.50 wide and they look like they are on a narrow rim by the way the bead/sidewall is pulled in. you can also measure them to know for sure.

 

heres two of my tractors, both with 16 x 6.5-8 front tires. the first one is on the wider rims.....

 

IMG_1105.JPG

 

the second is on the narrower ones. 

 

IMG_0705.JPG

Not sure exactly how to measure these wheels, but I came up with 3 7/8" measuring to the inside shoulder and 4 3/8" to the outside lip. That would be the widest measurement possible. Does that sound like the early rims?

[Martin 2,131]

Yes, they are the narrow ones. If you had the wider ones they would measure 5 3/8 give or take and nearly 6 overall to the outside of the lip. True rim measurement is taken with the tire off and is the distance between the shoulder where the tire bead sits.

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[rustykan 140]

Yes, they are the narrow ones. If you had the wider ones they would measure 5 3/8 give or take and nearly 6 overall to the outside of the lip. True rim measurement is taken with the tire off and is the distance between the shoulder where the tire bead sits.

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Do you normally paint the rims with the tires on or off? I was wondering about them getting scratched when mounting the tires.

[Martin 2,131]

I powdercoat so I never need to worry about damaging the paint too much. I can paint them and have the tires on same day. Other members on here have tips for using wet paint on wheels.

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[hm12460 53]

Nice tractor! Greater Cleveland Tire has the tri ribs in a 4.00-8 size. I just bought a pair. They do look good with the ag tires on the rear.

[rustykan 140]

Nice tractor! Greater Cleveland Tire has the tri ribs in a 4.00-8 size. I just bought a pair. They do look good with the ag tires on the rear.

I think they look great and will be very practical since I will only be pushing snow and not mowing with it.

[rustykan 140]

Well, I decided to take the plunge. I'm not going to do a 100 percent restoration, but I'm shooting for 90 +. I've got the wheels going to the paint shop tomorrow for powder coating and I have new ag treads for the rear tires and I'm looking at tri-ribs for the front.

 

I'm going to try and strip it down as far as possible and repaint. I've been bagging the parts and labeling them and taking lots of pictures. You can expect lots of questions in the future, I'm sure!

 

Thanks for all the help!

[rustykan 140]

I know how much you guys like photos, so I thought I would post a few and update my progress. I have started blasting some of the smaller parts in my new Harbor Freight blasting cabinet. It works pretty good after I replaced the gun with an old Campbell Hausfeld that I had. I am using walnut shells and am pleased with the progess. This is my first attempt at anything of this magnitude.

 

I don't plan on rebuilding the engine and was wondering what is the best way to repaint it? I have torn it partially down so I can clean it better, but was thinking about reassembling most of it then blasting it and then painting. Can the cylinder and head be blasted and do a good job while it is still installed? What type and color of paint should be used on the cylinder and head?

 

Does anyone have any tips on a particular order for reassembly of this project when the time comes? I have been taking lots of photos, bagging and marking the parts, but I'm still a little concerned about the reassembly process. My memory isn't as good as it used to be! 

I almost forgot, does anybody have any ideas where the blue carb might have come from?

Edited April 28, 2014 by rustykan

[shorts 182]

The blue carb is probably a take off from a Kohler engine on a ford garden tractor, the engines were completely assembled at the factory and then painted, if it was my engine I think that I would clean and blast the sheet metal parts and reassemble everything except the cooling tins then I would paint the tins inside and out, install them and then paint the outside of the engine just like the factory would have. My personal preference is to not paint the carburetor, just disassemble it and soak it in lacquer thinner to clean it, reassemble and reinstall it as a raw unfinished casting.

[rustykan 140]

So I pulled the head off to see how it looked. Let me start by saying that I have limited engine rebuilding experience and what I do have was probably close to 30 years ago, so I am looking for guidance.

 

My thoughts are that it looks pretty good. Had a problem removing the exhaust valve. Hopefully a good cleaning will take care of that and I was planning on re-seating them both. Any thoughts or suggestions?

[shorts 182]

Engine looks good in the pictures, clean the carbon off of the piston and valves and try to lap them in to check that they seal properly and reassemble with a new head gasket. Did you download the Kohler service manual from their site?