Help! With drive pulley/belt C160

[Free Range 0]

Last fall during my last cutting of the yard my idler pulley slipped? and got into the drive pulley that goes into the rear end. SO I've been putting this off all winter, now it's getting close to time for getting this fixed. Anyhow, here is the question, does this look right? According to the manual either the pulley is to large or the belt too short IMO. the arm holding the idler should be more straight up and down instead of in the 2 o'clock position that it is in now. This is the belt that was on the tractor when I bought it, I don't have a picture of before, but the pulley I have on it now is the same size, so I assume it looked like this when I bought it, and it ran ok but still don't think it's right. I also replaced the spring on the left side that basically hold tension on the belt by holding the idler pulley back. Another thing I did was replace the pto clutch plate the one on it was just metal on metal, so I bought a new pressure plate that has the "abrasive" material on it, should make a big difference in being able to cut taller grass, which I could not do at all last year. That was long winded, I will post the pics of what I'm talking about in the next post. 

Oh one more question, as you can see in the first pic, I have no brakes, where can I get the material that goes in there 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,102]

If you measure the belt it should be 82" long on the OD.

Looks like the L-bracket over the idler pulley is too far clockwise on the idler pulley. It is putting pressure on the back of the belt. Loosen the idler bolt and rotate the braket to the rear so it just clears the belt and tighten the idler bolt back up.

 

Garry

[Free Range 0]

thanks Gary, I will measure it, and yes it is putting pressure on the back of the bolt, I will fix that, thanks again

[Martin 2,133]

i think you have two problems.....

1. the belt is too short,

and 2. the idler pulley is too small.

like` you mentioned the arm is too far clockwise(from the belt being too short) and also the outside of the idler pulley should be closer to the belt tab on the idler arm. you should not be able to remove the belt from between the pulley and belt tab without removing the pulley or bending the tab (don't bend it. it needs to stay in the right position...)

 

edit; just went looking for a pic of one of my 8 speeds. maybe the diameter of the pulley is ok, but if you look where my belt height is where the lift shaft comes through the hood stand my belt is 1/2 to 3/4 inch higher than yours, so i would think you still have too short a belt.....

this pic isn the same position as yours but it can still be seen my arm is more vertical than yours.....

 

Edited April 2, 2014 by Martin

[Free Range 0]

Gee thanks so much for posting that photo, I noticed something else I have wrong and you can't see it on my pics, I have the belt on the wrong drive pulley on the front end, it goes on the stationary pulley not the out side PTO pulleys duh. I knew I should have taken pics before I took it apart last fall. Lesson learned. 

 

Garry I measured the belt it is 82, so I'm going to run out there and put it on the right pulley and see what happens. 

 

 

Thanks guys

[stevasaurus 22,878]

I believe Dave's Tractor World in Penn is selling the brake material you need.  He is/or was a vendor on this site. 

[rmaynard 15,610]

I believe Dave's Tractor World in Penn is selling the brake material you need.  He is/or was a vendor on this site. 

Dave is no longer a vendor here on RedSquare, but you can find him on eBay as "wheelhorseplethora". He still has a few brake band linings for sale for $20.00 delivered. Or you can get the raw material from McMaster and Carr and make your own.  http://www.mcmaster.com/#6175K813

[Free Range 0]

thanks so much for all the help guys

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,102]

Idler pulley 95-7668 replaces 7451 and has a 4" OD.

 

If you ever want one with a real ball bearing in it use a Napa 7-05485 or Stens 280-362.

 

Garry