Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
duke

Possible replacement oil guage?

Recommended Posts

duke

This looks like a good match?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ol550

As long as the sender for it will work, i'd go with it. :handgestures-thumbup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tankman

As long as the sender for it will work, i'd go with it. :handgestures-thumbup:

X^2

 

I would go with it as mentioned, if the sender is a match.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
duke

How will I know if the sender is a match?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
boovuc

Without knowing what the spec is for the sender that pairs with the gauge, I would hook it up and see if you get an "in range" reading. You'll know if it's not reading the WH sender for certain if you get no reading or you get an off-scale reading before or after warm-up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

For about 20 bucks buy a sunpro electric temp gauge.  The do not care if they measure water or oil temp and you will be sure the sending unit and gauge match.  The sunpro works fine in my D200...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • buffcleb
      By buffcleb
      So after using our 18 auto last week and it running fine we headed down to the cabin this week and wanted to fine tune the PTO adjustment... thats when the fun started
       
      This week the tractor would start, w/ choke, and run for 10 seconds or so then die.... until it died it sounded fine then just putter out... tried it without choke and that had no effect...
       
      some of the stuff we have done :
       
      We rebuilt the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago... its the original fuel pump... we replaced all the fuel lines and the fuel filter at the same time. The gas tank is also original... We installed a new coil (the old one was leaking fluid but seemed to work) and re-gapped the points last week as well.. after scratching our heads we pulled the carb and cleaned it and adjusted the idle and main jets back to factory specs... the idle jet was set to 2 1/2 turns and the main jet was set to 4 1/4 turns before we set the idle to 1 1/4 and main to 2 turns... that might explain why the plugs were so black when we pulled them... I check the compression on both cylinders and they were both around 95 - 100 psi...  
      Cleaning and adjusting the carb had no effect... it would still fire run for 10 seconds then quit...
       
      So here are my thoughts... 
      even with the fuel pump rebuild its not putting out enough pressure... I hooked up a mityvac to the fuel line and did not see much pressure...not the 4 PSI I think is needed... more like just 1 or 2 PSI... I also hooked the mityvac up to the crank case vacuum line and saw a strong pulsing... The original gas tank is a bit rusty... I'm not sure if there is a filter in the gas tank that might not be allowing fuel to flow fast enough... I'm thinking if replacing the fuel pump with an electric one... it might not be the problem but I figure it shouldn't hurt
       
      I'm also thinking of pulling the gas tank and replacing it with a boat gas tank until I can clean and seal the current one... 
       
      I'm thinking (doing way to much thinking ) that these will help but I want to hear others opinions... to me it seems like a fuel delivery problem... do others think this might be the case? if anyone has switched to an electric fuel pump I'd like to know which one... really any help would be appreciated 
       
      thanks in advance...
       
       
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...