12 Hp Kohler

[proshop 0]

301 12 Hp kohler boggs down when warm and at high rpm . It sounds like its under a load but it's not . I'll apply some choke when it starts doing it but it realy does not like that <_< .

I just vated the carb and replaced with no + results .

I still need to compresion check and check the plug.

I know there are a ton of thing that could be causing this, but just wanted to here from anyone that might could give me a check list

Thanks,

Tim

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

Have you checked/gapped the points lately?

Maybe it's just time for a good old-fashioned tune-up. :banghead:

[kamsdad97 0]

I had a similar issue with my c141 and it turned out that a power wire going to my coil was loose. maybe a quick check of your wires will help you out.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Yep, a tune up would be in order

Check plug and replace if necessary. Make sure you have the right plug Gap/regap before replacing.

New air filter and fuel filter. Examine the fuel line and replace it if there is sign of deterioration.

File or replace points. Regap

Examine gas tank for debris.

(change oil)

If the problem persists:

Check fuel pump with a vacuum or pressure tester

Adjust carb jets

Rebuid carb.

Good luck

[rocking 416 1]

I would look at govener spring tension. that gets me somtimes ....

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

I would look at govener spring tension. that gets me somtimes ....

But this should be the last thing you do, after you eliminate everything else. :banghead:

[rocking 416 1]

the govener bolt . that holds the arm that the spring rest on. somtimes they come loose . you would have to go thru an intired adjustment procedure tho . only bad part :banghead:

[akkc121wheelhorse 0]

MY C121 WHEEL HORES HAS THE SAME PROBLEM WHEN WARM ,NO POWER JUST BOGGS DOWN . :banghead:

[proshop 0]

The engine runs fine untill it warms up. then when you give it full throttel it boggs down like it is trying to lock up. the thing starts to shake and seems like there is something trying to put a load on it.

I just wonder if i took the drive belt off and eliminated the hyd pump all together if it still will do it.then it must be something in the engine someone told me that if the hyd pump is by-passing innternaly then that might cause the engine to bog, he also said i could take the plates inside and hone them back down to prevent the by-pass. I dont want to go that far if i dont have to.

Any other ideas? :USA:

[Jman6 1]

Proshop, I am probably the last guy to give advice about engines, but I do know that my brother-in-law had the same problem. His was a mis-matched belt on the mower deck and a wrong spark plug. He inherited a mower, just a lil craftsman, the guy before him had just thrown any old park pllug into it. Seemed to work good so he left it in there, only problem is that my brother in-law's lawn was a lot bigger than the guy before, so when it got hot, it bogged down and wanted to die. After the spark plug issue was fixed he got the right belt for the mower and then re-built the carb, now it runs perfect.

Hope that helps, Jman

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,300]

Your right about the spark plug maybe being wrong Jman.

Spark plugs have heat ratings on em. Unfortunately I dont know how to tell what the heat rating is on a plug, but its best to buy the right one for the application and not just stick in one that fits.

Mike.....

[linen beige 14]

I'd start off by unhooking any belts from the engine to isolate any other possible causes. If it still does it, check the easy things first. I would probably go in the following order. Check that it is receiving enough fuel after warm up. A plugged vent in the gas cap can cause similar results. Just loosen the gas cap to see if that helps. Check the screen in the tank, and the shut off valve for clogs. Check for good flow through the lines. make sure the fuel pump is working right. Pull the shrouds to make sure the fins are clean, Make SURE the muffler is not stopped up or restricted, install the proper spark plug, clean (or replace) and properly gap the points. Change the condensor and make sure all connections are clean and tight. Check for a good, hot spark to confirm the coil circuits are good.

Clean and adjust the carb. Make sure the air filter is clean, as is the crankcase breather and filter.

If none of these do any good, then it is time to check the governor assembly, check compression for bad rings, valves, head gasket, etc. It may also be that there is so much "coke" in the combustion chamber she is pre-detonating. Does she backfire or try to keep running when you shut her off?

[proshop 0]

Checked the points and looked like they were too for apart so i gaped them to 20 thousands and it seemes to be running fine now :horseplay: :horseplay: .I'm gonig to run it around for 30 45 min to see if it comes back But i need to know what the gap is for the 12 hp 301

I 'll keep everyone posted! :omg:

[SteveG_CT 0]

Checked the points and looked like they were too for apart so i gaped them to 20 thousands and it seemes to be running fine now :horseplay: :horseplay: .I'm gonig to run it around for 30 45 min to see if it comes back But i need to know what the gap is for the 12 hp 301

I 'll keep everyone posted!

The manual for a K301 calls for a .020 point gap, so you should be all set.

[Stigian 1,234]

Good to read that you have the problem sorted

I used to have the same problem with my Raider 10's engine which despite my best efforts refused to run properly and ended up seizing up solid

Oh well, at least the kohler lump is hand for keeping doors open :omg: