C-160 not charging now

[MaineDad 85]

Looks like the major leak in the tranny is now fixed. I ended using a pump cover from another tranny. Worked slick. The original could have had a slight warp.

Now the battery is no longer charging. I used jumper cables between the two large solenoid terminals - no luck. Tried to go directly from the starter to the battery - no luck. Took out the ignition switch and cleaned up all of the terminals - no luck. Put the battery charger on for a few minutes and she fired right up.

My next course of action is to check the rectifier, ammeter and wires. The PO disconnected the seat saftey switch so there is a lot of tape to remove to follow each wire.

My question is, what type of AC current should I see on the meter from the two wires coming out of the engine to the rectifier? I am sure that these are the original ammeter and rectifier. One thing I have noticed is that the hour meter does not change and the ammeter has also never shown any change in voltage. Thoughts?

[MaineDad 85]

I just put the meter on the two wires coming out of the engine into the rectifier. Hard to tell exactly because of the vibration, but it looks like it shows about 25 to 27. Is that OK?

Micah

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

Micah,

I'm no expert here, nor do I play one on tv, nor did I stay at that hotel you see in the commercials, but....here goes. I check the WH electrical manual for C-series tractors from 1978 to 1984. It states the stator should be putting out 28 volts AC or more.

I'm not sure if this will apply to your C-160, but I'm guessing it should. You can download this manual from the Toro site, it you use a model number from, say a C-121, or a C-141, or C-161.

[MaineDad 85]

The reading I did was a half throttle. It did go higher at WOT. Should I have taken the WOT reading?

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

Per the manual, test should be done at 3400 rpm, no load.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

Here's the test page on the Kohlers.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Micah,

Make sure the rectifier is properly grounded. You may want to try a wire from the rectifier mounting bolt right to the bolt where the negative lead connects to the frame.

IIRC running without a ground won't hurt it, but do not run it without a batter or it will over heat and kill the recitifier.

When I did my engine transplant this spring the old and cracked connector must not have connected the DC lead to the rectifier because it never worked again. I recently replaced it (making 100% sure all leads were connected) and it has been fine.

cheers

:banghead:

[glenn27 71]

Here's the test page on the Kohlers.

Thanks for that chart--Treed!

{dancing at ur next wedding}

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Micah,

the problem could be due to a "leak" when you are not using the tractor.

It also could be the battery.

You mention it has an ammeter - do you see a positive charge when the tractor is running? If so it is not the rectifier.

:banghead:

[MaineDad 85]

The ammeter does not do anything at all when it is on or off.

[sorekiwi 761]

Dont know how I missed this thread until now, but I had this problem on my 14 Auto a few years ago. My issue was just severe corrosion on the spade terminals of the rectifier- i scraped them up really good and its worked fine ever since.