It runs only with starter engaged

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Ok I'll try it thanks

[rmaynard 15,434]

Connect the clip on negative, and stick the probe into the connector where the wire hooks to the "I" position on the switch. Turn the switch to RUN. If you have power there, but no power at the coil, there is a break in the wire somewhere between the switch and the coil. On the other hand, if there is no power at the "I" terminal, you have a bad switch.

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

I'm all done for tonight Bob but tomorrow I will try it.Can i pick your brain tomorrow LOL. I'm sorry I never ran into a problem like this before.I know the tractor will run real good after all this.

[rmaynard 15,434]

My brain is available for picking. I will be on the road part of the day tomorrow, but should be able to respond by smartphone. I am convinced that you will get this problem resolved.

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Thanks.

Edited March 4, 2014 by WHEEL HORSE BILL

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

okay I stuck the probe into where the black wire loops at the pto switch and I have no light that comes on when the key is in the run postion so do you think it's the switch.the switch is new unless its bad.I also checked the (I) terminal key in run postion and also have no light there, but when I turn the key to start it then I have a light that comes on.

Edited March 4, 2014 by WHEEL HORSE BILL

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

Here's a video.

Edited March 4, 2014 by WHEEL HORSE BILL

[rmaynard 15,434]

Let's deal with the ignition switch first.

 

When you have the ignition switch in the OFF position, there should be 12 volts at the "B" (battery) terminal only. When the switch is in the START position, you should have 12 volts at the "B" (battery), "I" (ignition), "R" (rectifier) and "S" (start). When you release it, and the key returns to RUN, you should 12 volts at "B" (battery), "I" (ignition), "R" (rectifier), and "A" (accessories).

 

Now, about the PTO switch. That is a multifunctional switch that can be presenting a problem. Both START and RUN go through it, but they should both be separate circuits. The seat switch is also supposed to be hooked to it.

 

In the ON/RUN position, the black wire coming from the ignition switch to the PTO switch should have 12 volts at the PTO switch.

[Hodge71 664]

Here's a video.

 

Wheres a video? 

 

I wish I could see what its doing. As  Bob suggests do the troubleshooting at the switch first. His description is perfect and what you need to have a good starting point. Once the switch proves ok, then we can move on to the PTO switch. Always when troubleshooting you start at the beginning and prove 1 item at a time functional until you get to the end of the circuit. Its not overwhelming then... We will get through this 1 part at a time.

[rmaynard 15,434]

I spoke to Bill on the phone today and the problem is now solved.

[squonk 41,067]

and?

[rmaynard 15,434]

Previous owner had wire from ammeter to solenoid connected to starter side of solenoid instead of battery side.

[squonk 41,067]

Nothing like P.O. (previous owner) engineering! 

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

That why the previous owner sold it. He said it didn't have spark and the wiring was alittle messed up.Thanks to Bob rmaynard calling we were able to figure out the problem.Sorry to the members on here that tried to help me but I just have a hard time uderstanding through the computer.

Edited March 5, 2014 by WHEEL HORSE BILL

[Hodge71 664]

Im just glad you got it all fixed up. If you get the chance you should have the option n here to mark the post solved….Please do it. It allows others to find the post quickly when they are searching for answers to similar troubles

Edited March 5, 2014 by hodge71

[WHEEL HORSE BILL 7]

How can I do that.