Connectors where to buy

[876wheelhorse 46]

Edited February 23, 2014 by 876wheelhorse

[Wishin4a416 2,191]

I recently bought connectors and Terminals at

Performance Connections Systems and

The Repair Connector Store

[876wheelhorse 46]

Is this a standard relay gonna repair the wiring that's bad if don't work out then it's going to graveyard

Looks like wire from switch to relay is prob totally gone and possibly what started just a guess

Edited February 23, 2014 by 876wheelhorse

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,296]

Usually a full melt down like that indicates a "bypassed" fuse or a fuse that was rated way to high. I would definitly be trying to find out what started it in the first place. Might want to add an in-line fuse in your system....cheap insurance..

Mike.........

[876wheelhorse 46]

I only see one fuse that's for the lights lol

[farmerall 23]

Someone may have hooked the battery up backwards too. I did that once and ended up have to replaced 20 feet of wire because two wires melted together.

[876wheelhorse 46]

This relay which one do I need can't find nothing on it

[chazm 413]

Well a starting point would be to download a manual for your W/H for a wiring diagram... what model horse are we talking about?

Next do a search for wiring & connectors here on R/S... there are several good threads on the subject & where to purchase them from.

Most of the plug connectors &  terminals can be bought at a decent price

Do you know what the  burnt "relay" is for ?

[varosd 1,185]

good electrical sources.

 

 

http://pcsconnectors.com/packard56.aspx

 

http://www.delcity.net/

 

http://theelectricaldepot.com/

[KC9KAS 4,741]

As stated above.....get a copy of the wiring diagram, see what connectors you need and completely re-wire that GT!

[doc724 925]

876Wheelhorse;

 

That item in your pix is not a relay at all.  It is a switch that is actuated when you engage the PTO (so that when you get off the seat the PTO shuts off).  Replacements are crazy expensive like $64.  I bought a used one from Joe's Power for like $14.  Cutler Hammer makes them but they are not in stock and lead time to build is 8 weeks.  Send e-mail to Joe or to Kelly to see if there is another. 

 

Regarding the root cause for why the switch terminals burned?  Based on what I see, either there was a short circuit in that line or the female terminal was not gripping the switch tightly enough.  This resulted in high resistance at the connection.  The high resistance generates heat which just makes matters worse before everything goes poof.  If you ever had an electric stove with those spiral calrod heating elements, usually the burner that got the most use would fail first.  The heating element was usually not the item that would fail, it was always the connector.

[876wheelhorse 46]

So this thing that's not a relay can I do away with? I'm doing away with seat an clutch switch and this doesn't have a deck.....

[Kelly 1,029]

Yes that is a safety switch for the PTO, can be eliminated, if you want basic wiring with out the safety switches wire it like a 1970 Raider 12 that should get you what you want, junking a good machine because of a wiring melt down ???  

[876wheelhorse 46]

Yes that is a safety switch for the PTO, can be eliminated, if you want basic wiring with out the safety switches wire it like a 1970 Raider 12 that should get you what you want, junking a good machine because of a wiring melt down ???

Gonna try rewire it just the wires that go to ignition switch rectifier wire battery coil starter lights that eliminate the seat and clutch wiring but I'd like to somehow wire in the clutch. Stumped on that cause that wiring currently goes into the pto switch that's going by by.... Any ideas

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

You can use the following jumper cable setup to perform some quick go / no go testing on a ignition coil based tractor. I soldered up just such a jumper arrangement to take with me when tractor hunting. This arrangement will bypass all bad key switches, ammeter connections, starter solenoid wiring etc. A few feet of 12 gauge wire and 3 medium duty alligator clips and you are all set. 

 

Setup the jumper arrangement as seen below. 

 

 

This setup supplies battery voltage to the positive lug of the ignition coil and makes ready for the engine to be able to crank. 

 

When you wish to crank the engine to attempt to start it, switch the alligator clip off the battery terminal of the starter relay and touch the alligator clip to the trigger terminal of the relay as shown below. 

 

 

The engine should crank as long as the alligator clip is on the trigger terminal. 

 

When (if) the engine starts, return the alligator clip from the trigger terminal back to the battery terminal of the starter relay. This move back to the battery terminal gives the alligator clip a safe place to "park" so it doesn't accidentally touch any grounded metal parts. 

 

 

When you wish to stop the engine, simply remove the alligator clip from the battery positive terminal. Power will be removed from the ignition coil and the engine will stop. 

 

Please consider this arrange temporary and use only until you rewire all the safety features back into operation. 

Do not leave the battery power applied to the ignition coil for extended periods of time if the engine is NOT RUNNING. Battery power applied to the coil without the engine running will likely overheat the ignition coil. 

Edited February 27, 2014 by Save Old Iron

[gomer gump 8]

on all my tractors I,ve eliminated all the safety switches and pin connectors .wired the tractors according to the schematic and they all run like a dream ,w no issues and no fires . I have kept one 312 all original bought it new from dealer. I,ve rebuilt about 12 tractors and one thing I,ve noticed from almost every tractor is the gauges are wired up wrong either the dealer mechanic or the shade tree man didn,t wire them correctly .found a lot of them had hot wires on ground post and ground wires on hot post guess they just thought that's how it works most had burnt out gauges and coils and motors running wrong. also remember if you eliminate the safety switches ,a lot of guys will just cut the wires and wire them together. that,s not how it works some of the switches are normally open and some are normally closed ,check the schematic and wire accordingly. if you want to be all original then use the connectors switches I find them a pain. the one connector that I usually don t eliminate is the one going to the key switch that one I usually keep or put a new one on rest goes in the trash I use wire nuts and good thick electric tape

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

If you are going to rewire a tractor and eliminate the connectors, I would HIGHLY suggest soldering all connections and heat shrink them. (preferably with the adhesive sealing heat shrink)

 

Electric tape is not permanent (My father is an electrician, i have put my fair share of electric tape on things), and overtime will shrink and come off leaving a sticky nasty black goo. It also is not waterproof and will cause any wire nutted connections to trap water and corrode.

 

Just my

[gomer gump 8]

soldering and heat shrink is a good idea but ive also found that soldering will break loose over the years also and heat shrink is a real pain to get off if you do need to take it apart again someday .water will also get into the heat shrink . the tape will leave the blk goo so maybe use the plastic that goes around the wires and plastic tie them. I,ve just wire nutted them and used electric tape many layers and had no problem many years now .im no electrician don,t wanna be one. also those pin connectors to me are a fire hazard .safety switches are a good thing to have on your tractor for safety sake I just don,t care for them. if you wire nut the wires together correctly they won,t come off try takeing the heat shrink off man that's a lot a fun to do ,also on the wheel horses their,s not a lot a room to work with when it comes to the wireing so to me soldering and heat shrink is better by far but harder to accomplish and harder to replace later if you need to . do whats best and easier for you good luck