newbie here...I think my transmission is leaking and not sure of the tractor

[redhorserider 4]

 

Going back to the half throttle driving.........................The motors and the transmissions are designed to run at full throttle. (It's in the manuals).

You risk over heating your motor and definitely your transmission. You also are not getting the best lubrication in the top end of that motor without running it at full throttle. It also makes your tractor work harder because your not allowing enough RPM's to get you into the torque range it was designed for.

This topic comes up once and awhile but it is in the manuals and there is enough data to prove the merits of doing so and the failures of not doing so. 

Don't want to see you damage that horse.

 

Well you guys know a lot more than I do about this thing but I still can't see the need or necessity to rev the piss out of this little 45yr old motor. I'm pushing 2' of snow 100' at a time without the engine making a peep. Guess overkill is the way to go lol Thanks for looking out. Full throttle from now on. See what this thing can really do.

 

 

I replaced the "O" rings in an Electro 12 a couple of years ago. Since the parking pawl needed to be repaired, I removed the pump and motor as a unit. For me, it was easier to do the repairs on a bench. Dis-assembly of the O ring cover plate is self explanatory (3 screws) if I remember correctly. Seating the new O rings is tricky...they HAVE to fit in the grooves perfectly or they will leak.

If there is no need to do any other repairs on the transaxle, removing the whole transmission is the better option as it saves buying a gasket (item 46), transmission fluid and a filter.

If your parking pawl works as it should (every time it's applied with no creep or "clicking") then just pull the rear end out as a unit.

Like I said in a previous post, it's a bit of a chore...not rocket science. Your tractor was built BEFORE we went to the moon!

so is it basically the 4 bolts in front holding the trans to the frame give or take? Thanks tomorrow will start the repair

[daveoman1966 3,762]

If you are going to replace the O-rings in the hyd pump, here are a few pics of what you will find.  This pump is (was) on my bench and easy enough to work on. This could probably be done without taking the hydro-gear off of the gear-box transmission.  NOTE.. this is a 90-2062 Sundstrand Hydrogear which is externally the same as model 90-2046 of the Electro 12    

 

I wonder, too, if O-rings (for water) from a Plumbing Supply would disintegrate in motor oil or ATF..... some research is merited.

 

 

      

Edited February 19, 2014 by daveoman1966

[redhorserider 4]

Thanks a bunch daveoman. So does the front side look the same? The front is where mine is leaking

[redhorserider 4]

Wait nevermind that is the front lol sorry I work third shiftand been up all night and the pics just didn't click lol thanks again

[oldredrider 2,549]

While you have it apart, inspect the nylon cam plate for wear and replace if necessary.

[redhorserider 4]

Ok so I removed the 4 bolts holding the rear end to the frame and I'll definitely be able to get to those o rings. With the plow on the front half of the tractor is resting on the frame. Worked out awesome and there's enough room to get to that triangular cap and inspect the nylon cam plate yay me and thanks for all the awesome help everyone. I got pics I'll post later and I'll see what I can find as far as o rings go :)

[redhorserider 4]

Ok it seems as though I don't have that roll pin inside that little arm yet I can't get the arm of after the cam plate. What can be going on here? I tried different sizes to get the pin out. Anything too small pushes right through anything to large goes nowhere:( please help

[redhorserider 4]

ok found the roll pin after a good cleaning  . Had a buddy save the day by bringing over a punch set and got the roll pin out no problem. Not sure what a good cam plate looks like compared to a worn cam plate but i wanna say it looks good. nothing looks worn, grooved or deformed. (of course im cleaning everything as i remove it) My horse is gonna love me as I already removed close to 5lbs of tranny fluid/dirt/grass build up from all the cracks and crevices. No joke.

 

ok back on track. The normal looking o ring was kinda hard so i lubed it all up in white lithium grease to see if it would soften it up at all and placed it back on the shaft just for a temporary leak stop. The bigger more flat o ring seemed ok but that's where the obvious leak is coming from. I lubed that one all up with the lithium grease also and placed it back to stop the leak which worked but im sure wont hold up under heat and pressure. also, i think that flatter o ring is going to be the problem finding.   Will take to the local stores tomorrow to see what I can come up with. We have a ACE with small engine repair, a local lawn care store, tractor supply co and of course home depot. Wish me luck

[gregg'shorses 77]

You can get the proper o rings at a  bearing place such as :  http://www.canadianbearings.com/DeliverMore/   some places only sell them in packs of 10   , but they only cost about  $ 0.30- $0.50 for that size.

[redhorserider 4]

I found the o ring at advanced auto parts no problem. (I'll post the size and part number later) The bigger flat seal o ring is the problem. Ace, advanced auto, napa, tractor supply and even this old time mom and pop repair shop had nothing even close to it at all.

Mine was leaking at the o ring so I replaced it and reused the flat o ring with a tiny bead of rtv on the inside of the ring but not on the ring.

[varosd 1,185]

it's amazing, we (or at least me) get a new rig and catastrophe occurs on the 2-3 rd day. then we delve into it, learning every little thing about our new ride (yes, the good and the bad) and if it's a new to you model..searching on RS for manuals, old threads and also the wise advice of our fellow RS fanatics etc we fix it.

 

Stick with it Redhorserider!   Spring is on the way and also some RED paint for your new horse!

[redhorserider 4]

it's amazing, we (or at least me) get a new rig and catastrophe occurs on the 2-3 rd day. then we delve into it, learning every little thing about our new ride (yes, the good and the bad) and if it's a new to you model..searching on RS for manuals, old threads and also the wise advice of our fellow RS fanatics etc we fix it.

 

Stick with it Redhorserider!   Spring is on the way and also some RED paint for your new horse!

I replaced the o rings (which hopefully fixes the leak) and got the tractor back together after countless hrs of trying to line it back up and now the next problem. It creeps. I believe is the term used. Constant back and forth with the wheel lever engaged or disengaged and never finding a neutral with the drive lever . I really think i put that part back together wrong because it wasn't doing that before I took it apart     Anyone have a picture of the pulley the engages the engine to the pump? I think I might have that on wrong or the spring in the wrong place. please help