Hodge71 664 #1 Posted February 14, 2014 A picture is worth thousand words…I thought I had a wheel bearing go bad this morning and after tearing the wheel off I found 2 bad bearings and this. I have no idea what to do. This tractor has fought me tooth and nail and I'm about ready to pack it in. This is the latest problem and I have no idea what an immediate fix could be. This rim is absolutely destroyed and from my comparisons it's totally different than anything I have. I did have a rim off a 74 D200 I bought off some dude on ebay about 3 years ago but it has 1 inch bearings. Not only that but after spending 3 hours getting the old rusted tire off, the rim is shot from calcium, so I doubt it will work. What do I do? I have no money as unemployment ran out for me in December thank to the recent rule changes from the governing body in Washington. Does a wheel from a c series fit? It looks close when next to each other, but the18 Auto rim seems much deeper out front for some reason. Please some ideas that don't require tons of money. I am beating the snot out of my sons poor Charger 12 and I doubt it will be happy to accept the abuse much longer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,330 #2 Posted February 14, 2014 Hodge- If I had an extra I would send it to you but I have no D parts any more once I sold my auto 18. Hopefully somebody here will step up and help you out.I had similar problems today with the berco 2 stage blower. Persistent my friend.... Hang in there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,168 #3 Posted February 14, 2014 A C series - and most anything else should fit fine - with a minor difference, youll need a 3/4" spacer on the axle to make up the difference in depth. Ive been running a couple Sears front rims with spacers on my D-180 for years because of just what you show. I had checked a rim off a C-100 just to see and it fit also (using the spacer) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #4 Posted February 14, 2014 Pacer beat me two it. I thought I saw a thread not long ago about using a space and C-series Rims, (not the 6" little guys), on the D's. I just wasn't sure what if the 18 Automatic was different. Heads Up, Jeff! Things will start to get better! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #5 Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) So I can pull a wheel off my C-160, take the 16x6.50x8 off and replace it with the 18x8.50-8 from my bad rim and all will be ok? Its that easy?…with the 3/4 spacer of course….. I also found it bleeding around the top of the hydro motor on the rear…hopefully its just a loose bolt on the lines and not something more serious…all this with 6-8 inches of snow coming tomorrow... Edited February 15, 2014 by hodge71 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,168 #6 Posted February 15, 2014 Or use the C tires as is, especially if you are needing the D (is that your 'snow' machine?) Those Sears tires/rims I spoke of on my D are 16x6.50-8s - I keep saying Im gonna change them out, but.... But, yeah, the 18s, would probably change over alright, maybe a slight bulge but doubt it would be very noticeable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 617 #7 Posted February 15, 2014 It would be best to have both front wheels and tires the same. The 18 Auto has 3/4" axles. The later Ds have 1" axles. You could borrow the 3/4" front wheels and tires off the C-160 and mount them on the 18 Auto with spacers since the wheels are narrower than the 18 Auto wheels. The front end will sit a little lower since you will be going from 18" diameter tires to 16" diameter tires. Keep an eye out for a replacement 3/4 " wheel and tire for the 18 Auto sometime down the road. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #8 Posted February 15, 2014 Pacer, I need to change the tire from the 18. When I restore it 2 years ago I put 29x9.50-15s on back and 18x9.50 8 on the front. It sits like a lame duck with the C tires on it. I guess Ill be heading over to my Dads to start breaking beads… 3 inches on the ground already with another 3-5 on the way for the rest of today... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #9 Posted February 16, 2014 (edited) Well I took a wheel and wheel off my 1974 C-160 and put the tire from the 18 Automatic on it. As you can see she's running again…kinda gimpy but nevertheless on all 4 hooves for now. I also didn't need any spacers to prevent things from rubbing. Not sure why but I'll take what I can get at this point...Tire chains will be here tomorrow and make a huge improvement in pushing power. It does ok…I gotta get use to her sound again..to me she sounds like she was into the governor pretty hard for most of the way…..Once I get the chains on hopefully get back to the woodpile and get some firewood in... Edited February 16, 2014 by hodge71 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #10 Posted February 17, 2014 Jeff....I have one wheel with a 1 inch bearing (weird situation how) and I use it on a 3/4 inch spindle with 2 brass 3/4 X 1 inch bushings with a shoulder on them....I had to extend the spindle a little to make up for the increase width caused by the shoulders with a washer or two I ground down....has been fine for 4 years....I run 18X8.5X8 - 5 ribs on the front.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #11 Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) Jeff....I have one wheel with a 1 inch bearing (weird situation how) and I use it on a 3/4 inch spindle with 2 brass 3/4 X 1 inch bushings with a shoulder on them....I had to extend the spindle a little to make up for the increase width caused by the shoulders with a washer or two I ground down....has been fine for 4 years....I run 18X8.5X8 - 5 ribs on the front.... I was actually thinking about going that route Bob until I got the tire off the 18 auto wheel and laid it next to the wheel for the later model D with the 1 inch bearings. The D wheel is an inch and a half wider. It would look ridiculous with a wide wheel on one side and the standard on the other. Im brainstorming with my Dad on how to fix the wheel or maybeI'll get lucky and someone will have one to trade or something. It moves for now…thats all I needed at this point til we get a break from the white stuff. Another 4 inches coming here tonight..that brings my 5 day total to 26 inches Edited February 18, 2014 by hodge71 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
varosd 1,185 #12 Posted February 17, 2014 Jeff: was that a dead squirrel at 1:09 on the video?!?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #13 Posted February 18, 2014 Jeff: was that a dead squirrel at 1:09 on the video?!?! Ya know Bob I have no clue what the heck it was…may have been a dead squirrel…I guess I will see what shows up when the piles start to melt…at this rate that should be August Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duke 49 #14 Posted February 23, 2014 I had a simular problem and had a machine shop replace the center and they forgot to install a grease fitting! However, that was resolved and my wheel works great! The other option to maintain the width is use a D-rim and a 3/4 to i" sleeve. The bearings are out there to fit a D-rim and make it 3/4 but they are rare and expensive! I paid 80.00 bucks to have the original wheel repaired.There are wider rims on john deer that fit 18x8.50 tire but they use i inch bearings. Again a sleeve is needed. I thought of changing the spindles over to inch but the rims are hard to find! I have one NOS D rim and no bearings to fit it! I hope you get it done somehow, good luck! picture of D-rim and mistakedly purchased rear rims! A guy sold these to me said they were 18 auto front wheels notice the keyways in the photo? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,968 #15 Posted February 24, 2014 Glad to know you got the D going good again Bro' Jeff!!! The engine sounds perfect! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #16 Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) Well Made some progress on resurrecting the damaged wheel. I brainstormed for a bit an came up with a plan my Dad and I could put into play. First I took the wheel and cut the busted stuff off it with a die grinder. The next step was to get it all steel shot blasted to bare metal. As soon as I get time I will throw it in the milling machine and mill it level. My Dad had a piece of schedule 80 1 1/4" black pipe. We put it in the lathe and bored it to fit a new heavy duty flanged wheel bearing and pressed it into place so the is no play. We turned it down a bit as well so that a factory grease cap will fit with no issues. This is as it sits now. Once we mill the wheel surface level we are going to fit the new "axle" assembly to it and weld it up. As you can see from the thickness its way above and beyond anything the factory ever thought of putting in. This is the damage before After shot blasting and removing the scrap with a die grinder Edited February 25, 2014 by hodge71 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,125 #17 Posted February 25, 2014 Awesome work Jeff & Pop... where there's a will, there's a way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,968 #18 Posted February 25, 2014 Yes, good save of a wheel. I hate to say it but I think most people would have thrown that one away. You guys got some skills! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 82 #19 Posted February 26, 2014 Jeff, I have the greatest respect for your fabrication & repair skills. My hat's off to ya! j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duke 49 #20 Posted February 27, 2014 No grease fitting?lol! Looks great though, excellent work! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #21 Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) No grease fitting?lol! Looks great though, excellent work! Thanks for the compliment Duke…Actually the grease fitting is in the back of the wheel. The part we are recreating is the front part of the wheel …hence no grease fitting. Thanks for noticing though….I think? Edited February 28, 2014 by hodge71 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duke 49 #22 Posted February 27, 2014 I mentioned earlier about the wheel I had repaired and the machinist leaving the fitting out? I didnt realize you actually only repaired half of the wheel, even tougher! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rtfbg 744 #23 Posted March 25, 2014 In the video ... did I see what I thought I saw??? SNOW on the dashboard??? You left it outside .... IN THE SNOW???? Oh please sat it ain't so!!!LOL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #24 Posted March 25, 2014 In the video ... did I see what I thought I saw??? SNOW on the dashboard??? You left it outside .... IN THE SNOW???? Oh please sat it ain't so!!!LOL This tractor has never been inside in the 3 years I've owned it and the 2 years since its been redone. It sits outside 24/7-365 days a year...just as every tractor I own..The best they get now is a lean to that is open on both ends but the RJs, 416, and C-160 have that space clogged up until the spring when the C-160 will come out to mow and the Charger 12 with the plow and the 60" plow from the 18 will go into the lean to and the 60" belly deck will come out for the 18 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 574 #25 Posted March 25, 2014 Just caught up on this thread Jeff, don't know how but somehow I missed it. Wouldn't have been much help though as I didn't know that an 18 has the smaller diameter spindles. I've followed the resto and the trials you've been through since with it and once again you've overcome - great work Andy ps Watching the video, that paint job on the hood is still looking good! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
