Jump to content
crm227

c120 automatic--transmission engages...sometimes

Recommended Posts

crm227

Folks--

Need a little help here. Have a '76 c120 automatic. Starts right up and engine runs great. Moved fine in fwd and reverse at the beginning of the snow season, but past two times I've plowed with it the transmission (or something) has quit on me in the middle of a plow. Usually first happens when I'm stopping to put it into reverse. Might catch a little, but then stops. No noises, nothing else noticeable. If I had to find something to comment on, it would be that the lever to engage the transmission feels like it has less resistance than normal. In the past, I've let it sit for a little and then it's worked. Other times it will start working, then I'll shut it off a minute later and when I restart--nothing. Last night I went to turn it around in the garage and got halfway through a 3 point turn before she just stopped moving. Again--no noise and no engine problems.

 

One other point--when this happens the tractor can be pushed without having to unlock the push valve. But I've never tried pushing it that way--just noticed that I could. Valve opens and closes fine, but at this point there isnt any noticeable difference when it's open versus when it's close. It's that last point that worries me.

 

Whaddya think? 

 

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

Have you checked the transmission oil level?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
crm227

yes--checked it last night and it was within a normal range.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

I'm thinkin you have a worn out trans. I had almost the same problem a few years ago and had to replace the hydro motor. I have a spare transmission that I would offer you for little money but you're kind of far away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

You MAY have broken the tab that locks the shaft of the motion control lever aparatus. 

 

Look at this pic of my C-160 (same hydro unit) and locate this on your C-120.  This shaft has a tab on the end of it that is bolted to the hoodstand to keep the shaft from turning with the motion control parts.  Very often this gets cracked, then breaks, allowing the shaft to move freely when it should not.

 

In the schematic, I am referring to item # 6-40.  Look at the little flat tab on the LEFT end of that shaft. 

Edited by daveoman1966

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

As a 2nd possibility, there MAY be an issue with the FWD / REV valves in the MOTOR section of the hydro unit.  Either could be stuck or the spring between the two valves MAY be broken. 

 

These are located toward the bottom of the Hyd MOTOR on LT side of tractor.  Here are a couple pics...hope they help.  PS...take CARE to keep these CLEAN and be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to replace them EXACTLY as they came out.  Don't use a steel object to push the valve and springs out of the cavity.  I use the rubber tip of a pencil and a Magnetic pick-up tool. 

 

NOTE.... These valves have a FLAT surface on them, one FLAT being a bit wider than the other valve.  Be sure you get it right! ! !.   

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
TT

Just because it's easy........

Check the rear wheel hub(s) & axle key(s).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
crm227

thanks, all. I quickly glanced at the tab Dave pointed out and it looked fine. Will move on to look at the others next (starting with the hubs and keys). Will let you know what I find.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
crm227

Folks-

What exactly am I looking for when I check out the hubs and keys? Any step by step instructions or tips? This is new territory for me.

 

Thanks

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
can whlvr

when the tractor wont move,get someone to look at the axle in the middle of the hubs,see if they are turning inside the hub,which they shouldn't,the axle and hub should move as one,its the key inside the hub that splines them together,if its sheared the axle can spin inside the hub

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
crm227

OK--a quick update.More snow this week. Crossed my fingers and started her up. And she moved. Didnt give me any trouble. So now I'm thinking that perhaps it has to do with either really cold temps. Does that sound possible? What could be affected by cold like that? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
876wheelhorse

my c141 did this. sometimes go sometimes no go. i recall i was moving one day hit a big dirt clod it quit moving. there it sat. my frame was busted got it welded back up and i had a bad hub. both of these are fixed now and this year it hasnt let me down now that i said something its going to be the biggest pile ever...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • giant_g2
      By giant_g2
      Not sure on specific model. This 8 spd came attached to a plow I bought. It had some water in it for a couple weeks according to the prior owner. I drained it, sloshed some diesel in it, drained that, then filled with fresh oil. Spinning the input shaft by hand, I can see the axels turn. Hasn't leaked any oil. I'm not really interested in shipping, so I'd prefer local sales.

    • Doug B
      By Doug B
      Hey guys,I have a dilemma I need some help with. I have a 1969 GT 14 that I replaced the transmission and pump on. For about 2 weeks afterward everything worked great, but while mowing at a pretty good pace I noticed a shudder and the tractor slowed a little but not bad. The more I rode it the slower it got until it barely moves. What stumps me is the hydraulics are still very strong,as in I can back the 3 point under the bumper of my truck and if you lift the arms all the way up the front wheels of the tractor will clear the ground. Have checked the tow valve and checked the internal filter,but no luck. I have also checked and replaced the forward and reverse bypass springs and the lever is moving the cam to full travel, forward and reverse. Any help would be appreciated.
    • mattd860
      By mattd860
      I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that

      The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.

      The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal. 

      The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500. 
       
      My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information. 
       
      Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: CLICK HERE
       
      I am selling these kits for $330 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
       
      If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at mattdarling02@hotmail.com.

      Thanks!
       
       
      Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below. 
       

       

       

       

       

       
    • Dylan2342
      By Dylan2342
      New here! hello everyone! In a bit of a pickle here. My father owns a 1993 (I think that is the right year) 520H Wheel Horse. I don't commonly work on tractors but it seemed simple enough. the axle snapped on the left side, so it needed a new transmission. My dad bought a used transmission and I went to work changing everything out. The hydraulic pump that the engine's drive belt attaches to went to a different model/year of tractor, so I had to remove that part and swap it in from the old transmission. In the process I lost all of the oil in the pump (I mention this because I wonder if it has to do with my problem I'm having). When I reassembled everything I started the slow process of filling the transmission. I filled it up and started the engine. When moving the lever forward or backward, it had a tiny bit of power for a little bit and then lost power. The transmission wasn't doing anything, anymore. I though maybe that hydraulic pump needed to be primed, so we took the top hydraulic line off of the hydraulic pump right above the drive belt and used a transfer pump to pump some oil into the pump case. This still didn't work. I don't have enough experience with these hydrostatic transmissions to know if we got a bad transmission or if there is something obvious that I am missing when it comes to a transmission swap. I ask for any insight and help please. If you need pictures or any other info, then let me know what you need. Thank you!
    • Porkskin
      By Porkskin
      I have no understanding of what it is like to push one of these when the trans is disengaged and motion lever is in the forward position as the manual mentions. I hope this is not old ground and that I am not cross posting. With the trans disengaged and motion lever set forward there is still something spinning in and about the transaxle that is giving resistance. I need to know if this is normal or if I should be expecting more of a free wheeling experience. In effect, much less resistance. Thank you for comments or pointing me to a topic that already covers this. 
×
×
  • Create New...