dclarke 4,046 #76 Posted June 16, 2014 I had a feeling you'd get it done in time, Bob.... Looks great!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,749 #77 Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) I had a feeling you'd get it done in time, Bob.... Looks great!! I always work best under pressure. Even though there was really no need to have this one finished in time for the show, the pressure came from my wife who always expects to get her side of the garage back shortly after the WHCC show. Edited June 16, 2014 by rmaynard 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,749 #78 Posted June 16, 2014 ...you can grind the ends of the valve stems at home to set the clearance. I use a machinist Vee block & clamp to hold the valve and a drop indicator to set the amount to grind off. If you calculate that you need to grind off .010 off the valve stem, then clamp the valve to read about .008 protruding with the indicator. You can then use a bench grinder to cut the end about flush & repeat the gap check & final adjustment. That's all well and good if your shop is equipped with a machinist v-block and a drop indicator. I do not have such tools. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,143 #79 Posted June 17, 2014 Man O Man! You do some gorgeous restorations Bob. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,364 #80 Posted June 17, 2014 Looks great Bob. See you Thursday. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdleach 525 #81 Posted June 17, 2014 That's all well and good if your shop is equipped with a machinist v-block and a drop indicator. I do not have such tools. And therein lies the rub. From what I can tell, most folks on this site do perhaps a couple engines a year, or even less. Many of the operations, actually most, a local engine shop do are really pretty simple, if you have the proper tools. Given the price of most of the "proper" tools, it is not economically worthwhile to invest in them. The greater part of the time, those tools and machines will just collect dust and rust. That said, if someone has several tractors, it may be worthwhile to check into a small lathe. The lathe is probably the most versatile machine tool in a small home shop, and it is often said among machinists and toolmakers, that it is the only machine that can replicate itself. You can not only turn and face, but bore, thread, mill, grind, and do other operations with one. And even if they are pretty worn, a conscientious operator can still do good work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,749 #82 Posted June 17, 2014 Got the seat recovered last night. As I said earlier, I sent the old covers and pans to our vender Dave Burley (Funengineer), and he provided me with these excellent quality covers. These are not just slip-over covers, but actually get glued to the internal pans of the seat. I think they look great. Thanks Dave! 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdleach 525 #83 Posted June 17, 2014 Bee-uu-tiful job. Me like. Lots. Want one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,562 #84 Posted June 17, 2014 Tractor looks fantastic Bob! Very nice work, in a quick amount of time too! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kirby038 0 #85 Posted August 3, 2014 what kind of paint did you use on it. i have a 856 im doing now. i bought the IH red from tractor supply Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,749 #86 Posted August 3, 2014 I used acrylic enamel automotive paint from PPG. Color is New Ford Tractor Red. If the paint you bought from TSC is Majic, expect to wait at least a month for it to cure. I tried the IH red from TSC on the engine and eventually had to strip it off and repaint it with the PPG paint because it never dried hard. Others on here have shared the same experience. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites