Charles123 12 #26 Posted August 9, 2018 Thank you much sir Never owned a koler before and was curious Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
George Lengle 1 #27 Posted March 29, 2019 Hay Guys, anybody have a piston for a 16 hp. Kohler? Stander size. Call me 7179339651 thanks George. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,197 #28 Posted March 29, 2019 1 hour ago, George Lengle said: Hay Guys, anybody have a piston for a 16 hp. Kohler? Stander size. Call me 7179339651 thanks George. Have you looked on ? https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=kohler+341+piston&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=10&_osacat=0&_odkw=kohler+361+piston&LH_TitleDesc=0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #29 Posted April 2, 2019 I've got one. Complete Kohler with rings, pin and clips. Send me a PM if interested. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob R 966 #30 Posted May 7, 2019 Great input regarding Kohler 321 engine pans. I am currently doing a ring, piston, hone rebuild on a 321 off a Ford LGT 145 on this machine they actually welded the rails to the bottom pan (see pics). My intention here is to put this puppy in a red machine (312-8). From your information I definitely have the small pan with the expanded bottom for the long dipper. Here's my questions: > Can I carefully remove the rails from the pan, cutoff the old front axle mounting bracket(s) and then drill holes in the flanges to mount to the Wheel Horse rails. > Since the engine is side mounted will the expanded bottom fit between the standard Wheel Horse rails? > If not possible to make this old pan work what flat pan would work and do I need to get the expanded bottom one (big dipper} > any recommendations here would be appreciated don't want to go down to many blind holes here...…. Thanks much! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevewilli 2 #31 Posted August 3, 2019 Hi Kelly, Thanks much for your 2014 comprehensive explanation of Kohler oil pan compatibility. Great job. I hate to bother you with this situation but you seem to know more about this topic than anybody. I am restoring a unique 1975 cushman golf cart that originally had an 8hp Kohler. I bought the cart without a motor. I recently bought a model M12s Kohler Magnum 12 HP motor to put into it. The block is stamped with K301. From what I learned in your post, this is a large block motor and has a pan with ears.. Overall, the dimensions of the motor should fit into the cart. I would like to use the original Cushman mounting holes because there are rubber motor mounts that I would like to continue to use without having to fabricate an entire motor mount assembly. I'm hoping you can tell me if a pan exists that will have the mount hole dimensions that will fit my motor and the Cushman original mount locations. The dimensions of the Cushman mount holes are 4 15/16 " (measured from flywheel side to PTO side) The holes from the starter side to the carb side measure 7 13/16". I learned from your post that I might even be able to use a small block pan if I tap a couple of holes. Any advice you can offer is appreciated. There is a great garden tractor junk yard near me in Lapeer MI that might even have a motor with the correct pan, I just need to know where to start looking. --------------------Thanks, Steve 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #32 Posted October 3, 2019 Made this nifty little chart showing the differences between the 2 styles of wide base blocks. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
montclair 1 #33 Posted January 26, 2021 On 1/7/2016 at 4:28 PM, redone said: Hi Kelly Thanks for this education on kohler blocks. Now I know what I have to replace. I have a blowen 16 hp kohler off of a 160 Hydro. cam gear went through the side of block. now I have to take another look for large or small block. on the other hand, i will need to replace this block, and rebuild new. any ideas of were i can find a good block to be rebuilt. or find one already built..... thank you for sharing. Bill Iowa im sure u can find many 16hp blocks here i have one that is getting a valve job cylinder is still std it is the wide base type that i will sell it has the cam lifters and valves in it im willing to sell it at a decent price as a std block are u interested in it? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barns1 57 #34 Posted June 22, 2021 Hey Kelly, Just wanted to let you know your fine explanation just came in handy for a project I'm working on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,078 #35 Posted May 27, 2022 I found another pan that I didn't see talked about here. I am planning on putting a rebuilt K321 that I bought into my 953. The 9 and something HP engine on the 953 bolts onto the frame at all 4 corners. The oil drain in on the bottom of the pan on the flywheel side of the engine. I do not know if there are bolt holes from the bottom. This is the engine on the tractor now. This is the 14 HP engine I am putting on. I seem to have gotten lucky in the fact that this engine seems to have the same pan as on my 953. Not the best picture but you can see the oil drain hole and no bolt holes to bolt up from the bottom. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #36 Posted May 27, 2022 @squonk, the 953, 1054 and the GT-14, and possibly others, have a wide frame. Therefore, no bolt holes needed in the pan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,078 #37 Posted May 27, 2022 11 minutes ago, oldredrider said: @squonk, the 953, 1054 and the GT-14, and possibly others, have a wide frame. Therefore, no bolt holes needed in the pan. I'm wondering if the engine I have came off of a GT-14. I don't remember where the oil drain was on the one I had. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #38 Posted May 27, 2022 The oil drain on my GT-14 exits out the starter side with an elbow and extension to drain on left side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,078 #39 Posted May 27, 2022 Maybe this engine was built out of parts at some time. I can't think of any others where the drain was at the bottom. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #40 Posted May 27, 2022 I've had a few Ariens engines with the drain on the bottom. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Johnson 3 #41 Posted December 21, 2022 So can I swap a large oil pan k341 engine.... to fit on a c165 with a shaker plate or am i stuck rebuilding my original motor 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,197 #42 Posted December 21, 2022 9 hours ago, Bob Johnson said: So can I swap a large oil pan k341 engine.... to fit on a c165 with a shaker plate or am i stuck rebuilding my original motor Take a couple of measurements on the crank shaft height of the present engine from the frame and the K341. Best of my recollection the holes on the frame will line up with the big oil pan once the shaker plate is removed. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,734 #43 Posted December 21, 2022 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: Take a couple of measurements on the crank shaft height of the present engine from the frame and the K341. Best of my recollection the holes on the frame will line up with the big oil pan once the shaker plate is removed. If the big base oil pan doesn't have the threaded holes in the bottom you can always use J Bolts on the PTO side 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,010 #44 Posted December 31, 2022 (edited) On 12/21/2022 at 9:39 AM, pfrederi said: the big base oil pan doesn't have the threaded holes in the bottom Drilling a standard pan out for use on a Wheel Horse is easy: Locate the two bolt holes that connect the pan to the block on the PTO side. With a drill press, drill 1/8th holes from the top down in both holes. The original holes have tapers in the bottom that center the smaller bit. Flip the pan over. With a 5/16 bit, chase the 1/8th pilot holes from the bottom up. Check to be sure you don't drill much past the existing threads. You want to meet them, but drill no further. Flip the pan again. Then use a 3/8 x 16 tap, starting with the factory threads. This will give you continuous threads all the way through. I've done several of these, and they work great. Just take your time and keep the shavings clear as you work. Easy peasy! Edited December 31, 2022 by kpinnc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites