Desko 588 #26 Posted January 12, 2014 desko I was just thinking if a valve was sticking open=no compression. It possible to seize up when it gets hot but that could be a bad valve guide or a lack of oil would make it seize up but you never know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #27 Posted January 12, 2014 Did you put on a new condenser, or just a different one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,528 #28 Posted January 12, 2014 I hear movie stars can be very temperamental. I am liking what JimD said. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tkol1969 92 #29 Posted January 12, 2014 Ive had two different times where the voltmeter or ammeter where shorting out or had bad terminals in the back and the tractor would do the exact same thing. gets power through the ammeter feed. just a thought???? we bypassed voltmeter to check and it ran like a champ. comes and goes so hard to detect? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #30 Posted January 12, 2014 Mike, i think electrical is where your problem is at. Like Jim said check that wire and also the ignition components are grounded properly. also check for an intermittent loss of power anywhere from the battery all the way to the coil. wiring, wiggle the fuse if it has one, check ammeter or voltmeter, check the ignition switch, hook a volt meter or test light to the coil and position it where you can see it and move things around while watching. i had 2 bad ignition switches just recently on the 416s i picked up. would transfer voltage fine, but move the key slightly one way or another or wiggle the back and they would loose contact inside...... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #31 Posted January 12, 2014 Im with martin. Run a jumper from battery + to +side of coil and see what she does. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,968 #32 Posted January 12, 2014 I also had the very same problem with the 310-8 I bought from Jay. Of course when I bought the tractor there was no engine in it so... Did you try making a warranty claim anyway. Naw, I gotta take care of Jay. He's my Big Show Hooklup 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 40,740 #33 Posted January 12, 2014 (edited) I had a 12v test light on the coil when it was running and then quit. Voltage did not drop out.Checked the fuel pump output and it was good. Hope to work on it this afternoon. Water heater comes first. Just got that running. Need to play with the set point some more. I'm going to use Elvis to drag out the old heater in the spring. Maybe I'll have room for more stuff after that! Points are white colored and the gap seems to be under .015" does anyone think they may be the culprit? Edited January 12, 2014 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 617 #34 Posted January 12, 2014 My 8hp Kohler on my C-81 will not run unless the points are right on. My KT17s will not run unless the points are dry and the faces of the points are clean. On several no start occasions I had to run an ignition file or emery cloth over the points and then varhoom. Points gap should be .020 but try some emery paper on the faces. Maybe they got damp from blowing snow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #35 Posted January 12, 2014 i would open the points up. i think 'just under' .015 is too tight. right now the spark is too retarded. if you get it closer to .020 the spark should be closer to the right amount of advance. of course this is assuming that the points rod length/ cam points lobe wear/ points themselves are all in the ball park. best way is to time it using a light or dvm. theres quite a few threads on here of how to do that. as far as .020 goes, thats the baseline spec. but some of mine run better under a few thou, some run better over. timing correct is more important....... not saying that is the cure to your problems but its something that maybe needs looking at...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 40,740 #36 Posted January 12, 2014 Well it's definitely ignition. I connected a inductive timing light to it and started it up. After 30 sec or so it started to quit and the timing light stopped flashing. I'm going to connect the coil directly to the battery and if that doesn't solve it, a new set of points. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #37 Posted January 12, 2014 i would be looking at coil and condenser. your points will either work or not. if they are sparking good then they should be ok. do you have a nice spark at the points when ignition is firing? the coil and condenser that were replacements, are you sure they are good runners? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 40,740 #38 Posted January 12, 2014 (edited) Progress. Ran a jumper to the coil from the battery and ran it for about 3 min. Ran fine outside of a little carb adjustment. Pulled the jumper and it started acting up in about 10 seconds. Started following the wire back and found this. The looped black wire out of the switch is 12 v to the PTO switch and has cracks in it. There it's a double terminal and continues on to the coil. I'm going to run a new wire in the next few days and if it continues, replace the switch. Edited January 12, 2014 by squonk 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,528 #39 Posted January 12, 2014 Cool...sounds like Marvin Bondo is back in action...can't wait for the new video... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimD 3,345 #40 Posted January 12, 2014 As they say in Norway... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 40,740 #41 Posted January 12, 2014 As they say in Norway... Wicked Tomalie Fa_ts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #42 Posted January 13, 2014 change the points Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,968 #43 Posted January 13, 2014 Mike you still need to open those points up to about .020 Try .018 first as opening up the gap will advance the timing. Use emory cloth, don't file them. If they look like they need to be filed then they need to be replaced. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 40,740 #44 Posted January 13, 2014 I will change the points after I replace this wire. If I do both at the same time, I won't know what actually fixed it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
new2horses 287 #45 Posted January 13, 2014 The coil is the problem. I know it has been replaced, sorry but its still bad and is causing all the problems, running the wire direct proved my assertion, loose or bad wires and switches have been compounding the issue still its the coil. Regards to all, David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 40,740 #46 Posted January 13, 2014 Marvin's problem has been found! I replaced the wire from the switch to the coil. Problem was still there. Next I replaced the switch with a new one. I originally got the switch for my C-160 as it is worn and the key falls out. Haven't gotten to it yet. Anyway Problem is still there. Next I replaced the points as the gap is too narrow and the contacts are oxidized. Problem is still there. So now I put my voltmeter on the coil and battery positive and I'm dropping 2 volts with the key on. Start it and now I'm dropping 4 volts with it running good and 6 volts when it starts to misfire. Now I trace the wire from the solenoid to the ammeter. I unwind the crappy tape and find even worse tape. Unwrap and find this. Some Gibronie decided to put an inline fuse in there and did a lousy job. I cut it out and twisted the wires together to try it and VROOM!!!!!!!!! Funny thing I was planning on going thru the wiring in the spring! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dclarke 4,031 #47 Posted January 13, 2014 Glad you found it, Mike. Sometimes wiring can be a nightmare. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,102 #48 Posted January 13, 2014 Persistence pays...good job Mike. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,528 #49 Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) I think wires with tape on them would be the first place to look...just my 2 cents. Glad you found it Mike. Try sitting those new points at .018. Cheese Head Edited January 13, 2014 by stevasaurus 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,968 #50 Posted January 13, 2014 "Gibronie"!!! Magnificent!!! Now I have a new word to add to my vocabulary Another one of the benefits of being a Supporter Mike! Also, glad Marvin is healed . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
