JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #1 Posted January 7, 2014 What size hardware....what diameter? Carriage bolts or threaded rod? I bought a set of 70 pound per weight wheel weights for the 416-8. They came with threaded rod 3/8 inch diameter. Should I use carriage bolts or threaded rod? I bought a xtra 3 ft. Length to cut down. 4 rods per wheel weight. What do most of you use? Thanks. Glenn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #2 Posted January 7, 2014 I only have 50 pound cast iron weights, but I use long 1/2 inch bolts, 2 per wheel. with flat washers and nylon locking nuts.. Carriage bolts are better, but I have not looked for them in long lengths Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GlenPettit 1,716 #3 Posted January 7, 2014 • Chose to use just regular 9" bolts with my two sets (one plastic pair for the 312 Snow thrower and one steel set for the C-101), ....and let the excess threads stick out on the inside side (1/2" bolts, with washers each end). • The plastic ones just can't hold the square head of the carriage bolt secure, and I like all four nuts & bolts to be secure, now ....both ends of the bolt can be held secure when tightening. • It takes me about 2 hours each time to clear 6" of snow, and the work gets rough on the weighs, they have loosened before, ....so now I'm using nylon lock nuts (the rears are also full of RimGuard, giving over 100# per wheel extra), plow 10-12 times/year. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brandonozz 168 #4 Posted January 7, 2014 • Chose to use just regular 9" bolts with my two sets (one plastic pair for the 312 Snow thrower and one steel set for the C-101), ....and let the excess threads stick out on the inside side (1/2" bolts, with washers each end). • The plastic ones just can't hold the square head of the carriage bolt secure, and I like all four nuts & bolts to be secure, now ....both ends of the bolt can be held secure when tightening. • It takes me about 2 hours each time to clear 6" of snow, and the work gets rough on the weighs, they have loosened before, ....so now I'm using nylon lock nuts (the rears are also full of RimGuard, giving over 100# per wheel extra), plow 10-12 times/year. One good thing about using standard bolts in place of carrage bolts (when using the plastic weights) is putting the nuts on the inside so the extra thread isn't sticking out to skin your leg on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #5 Posted January 7, 2014 Ok....crisis over lol. My brother convinced me to set these weights on the rims correctly. We used 1/2 inch by seven inch carriage bolts. They each have 2 beefy washers with a beefy lock washer and nut holding them in place. Being as these cast iron weights are so heavy we wanted to make sure of attachment to the rim. That's why 4 carriage bolts per weight. Also by the carriage bolt head being locked into the rim " square fits into square hole " we felt that would cut down on cavitation and the weight wanting to roll in the rim. The manufacturer of the tire rim had to put that square hole into the rim for this reason. 2 pictures below. Thanks for the advice though. It's much appreciated. Glenn 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,213 #6 Posted January 7, 2014 Home Depot usually has a good selection of 1/2" carriage bolts. I use a die to re-cut the threads after cutting them to the correct length. I have both 7" and 8.5" width wheels so I mark them for the size wheel. For mounting on plastic weights I insert the bolt from the rear and use a flat washer, locking washer, and then the nut. I agree with Glenn about using the square holes in the wheel. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #7 Posted January 7, 2014 I would still use Nylon Lock Nuts with flat washers instead of the lock-washers....Just my experience and ! I just hate "re-work". 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #8 Posted January 7, 2014 I use carriage bolts, square head in the square rim holes. Hey, as mentioned above, square holes in the rims for a reason. Darn cold out there today, lucky my stallions are in the barn! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 919 #9 Posted January 8, 2014 That is the way I have mine mounted on blower tractor and loader tractor. Carriage bolts 2 per weight. Never had a problem with them. Marvin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jrblanke 857 #10 Posted January 8, 2014 Great pictures! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #11 Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) While talkin' bolts on rear wheel weights, might mention lug nuts vs. lug bolts. I like to change over to lug nuts. 1/2" - 20 x 1-1/2" bolts and blue thread locker from inside the rear hubs. Then 1/2"-20 open ended acorn lug nuts. Makes it easy to change rear tires. Edited January 9, 2014 by Tankman 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #12 Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) i think you will find the majority of wheel hub threads are 7/16-20 especially for the type of hubs shown in the pic above. there are exceptions though. just don't want anyone going out and buying the wrong size...... Edited January 9, 2014 by Martin 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #13 Posted January 9, 2014 I agree with Martin, 7/16-20 bolt size. I just had this same discussion with Saltwatersailor in MD who confirmed the bolt length as well. The acorn nuts are from 1980-1990 or so GM products. I have not converted mine yet-just too damm cold to go into the garage, but I am thinking to get closed end chrome plated acorn nuts to keep the nuts from rusting to the studs. I found them for about $14 on ebay for a package of 20-enough to do two tractors. Open end ones are less $ of course Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chevydave 25 #14 Posted January 9, 2014 (I would still use Nylon Lock Nuts with flat washers instead of the lock-washers....Just my experience and ! I just hate "re-work".) I always go with a nylock - cheap insurance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
56flatbed 29 #15 Posted January 10, 2014 The 7/16-20 lug nuts were standard GM until '82 when they switched to metric. Those are 12mm-1.25 thread if the Euro members want to switch to studs and nuts. Wally Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Buzz 502 #16 Posted January 10, 2014 Don't forget to check the tightness of the setscrew in the hub. You don't want the whole wheel assy. to fall off or worse yet, destroy the keyway in the hub or axle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
varosd 1,185 #17 Posted January 11, 2014 so far, I have used the threaded rod method on the plastic weights. I secure the rod by sandwiching it tight to the rim using a nut/washer on both sides of the rim. I then can hoist up the weight onto the rod and then secure it with a third nut/washer. having the rod secured allows it to be like a "lug nut" . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #18 Posted January 12, 2014 (edited) i think you will find the majority of wheel hub threads are 7/16-20 especially for the type of hubs shown in the pic above. there are exceptions though. just don't want anyone going out and buying the wrong size...... How right you are! Guess I was dozin' or somethin'! 7/16-20 x 1-1/2" long bolts, don't forget Blue Threadlocker on the threads in the hubs. Under the bolt heads use small flat washers. I always use Never-Seez on the exposed threads. Edited January 12, 2014 by Tankman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3Six 30 #19 Posted February 5, 2014 https://cloud.real.com/s/XQbrcP Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
