wheelhorsearound 6 #1 Posted January 3, 2014 Just put a new drive belt on the 1054. Old belt fell to pieces right in the middle of plowing the driveway, just in time for the biggest storm we've had in a while. 17 inches of snow on the ground and around -15 with the wind chill, and I'm under the Horse fiddling around off and on all day trying to figure this out. Probably it's something simple. After putting on the new belt, I depressed the clutch/ brake, and tried to shift it into gear (reverse). Gears grinding. Not a good sound. Tried first, etc, and the same thing happened. Tried to adjust the clutch a bit, but not sure what to do. Just want the thing to work. Getting dark here now, so I'm throwing in the towel for the night. Tomorrow morning, I'll give it a shot. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,872 #2 Posted January 3, 2014 (edited) The first thing is you have to have the guard on for the clutch to work. I say that...because if you are grinding gears...then the input shaft is turning. Hopefully, it is just not having the guard on. My thought is why did the old belt shred?? Is the tension pulley OK?? Are the tabs that funnel the slack toward the engine pulley there?? Adjusting the "clutch" really only raises or lowers the clutch pedal. You need the right belt length, the tabs need to be there, and the guard has to be in place. That is about all it can be...if the pulleys are ok. Let us know. The trans will grind gears without the guard on. Edited January 3, 2014 by stevasaurus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #3 Posted January 4, 2014 is the clutch arm moving the idler pullie,make sure the roll pin didn't shear and the spring is on and not broken 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorsearound 6 #4 Posted January 4, 2014 So. Tried the basics. Is it possible to adjust the pulleys at all. Basically I can now see that when I depress the clutch the input shaft IS, in fact, turning. I'm assuming that this is causing the problem. The belt is the same size as the one that was on before, but it is a Kevlar belt, not an old fashioned one, which is what was on there originally. Any ideas? Also, in manual I have for the1054, it says that clutch must be depressed all the way, released, then depressed again before shifting....is this true? Worked last year with old belt without this double depress clutch scenario. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,872 #5 Posted January 4, 2014 Try wiping the pulleys with mineral spirits to take off anything that might be sticking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #6 Posted January 5, 2014 Steve - I am not sure that the belt guard on the 1054 has an influence on how the drivebelt disengages from the pulleys. Unlike "normal" horses the 1054 has a long heavy duty guide underneath the belt that does what the guard does on other tractors. There is however a peg type guide bolted to the engine that is supposed to force the belt forward and thus disengage the belt from the engine pulley. Wheelhorsearound, you didn't answer Dons question as to whether the idler arm is moving when you push the pedal down, or Steves question about the tab that is close to the idler pulley. In case you don't realize how the system works - when you push the clutch pedal down it pulls a spring loaded lever on the left hand side of the tractor which is attached to a cross-shaft with a matching arm on the right hand side of the tractor. This arm carries an idler pulley which tensions the belt so that it will drive the trans when your foot is off the pedal. When the clutch is depressed the tension is removed from the belt, and the little tab above the idler pulley pushes the slack in the belt towards the engine pulley. On the other side of the engine pulley is a small wire peg that ensures that the slack in the belt also guides the belt forward and away from the engine pulley. If both these guides are adjusted correctly the belt will stop driving the input pulley on the trans when the tension is removed from the belt. You may need a helper to push the clutch pedal while you watch what the belt does. You can do this without the engine running. I am also assuming you have the right sized belt - it should be 82". 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorsearound 6 #7 Posted January 5, 2014 Yes. The idler arm is moving, and the tab is present close to the idler pulley. Thank you so much for the information about how the tab, wire peg, etc. affect the performance of the idler pulley and belt drive system. I'm just beginning to learn about all this stuff, so, yes, I'm basically clueless. I'm taking a small engine repair course, but they don't cover mechanics of the drive belt system on 50 year old wheel horses (go figure!). This information seems like it'll be a great deal of help. I had figured out just by looking at it how the clutch and idler pulley were connected, but I hadn't realized how much of a role the tab and wire played in stopping the belt from driving the input shaft. I'll get a helper to push the clutch and take time adjusting the wire and tab to see how it affects the operation of the input shaft. Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it! Someday I'll have this 1054 figured out. It was my uncle's, and came to me after he passed away, so I'd like to see it keep working and continue getting use for many years to come. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorsearound 6 #8 Posted January 5, 2014 If I take some photos of the peg and guide arrangement, do you think you'd be able to point me in the right direction as far as how the peg and tab should be adjusted? Also, the belt is 82 inches... Thanks again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #9 Posted January 5, 2014 totally agree with mikes comments on the 1054. yes they are a little different, but one fact still remains the same as all the other gear drive tractors. the belt needs to stop moving or the gears are going to grind...... you will hear when it stops moving and its easy enough to look near the engine pulley to tell if its stopped moving.there is also another 'belt tab' at the back of the tractor that bolts to the inside of the fender. this one is important too..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorsearound 6 #10 Posted January 5, 2014 Good to know. Yep. I could tell the input shaft was still moving, once I got it figured out enough. Like I said, I'm still new at this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #11 Posted January 5, 2014 Martin has some pics of the front peg guide in his thread: He's the guy to go to for the details. I have a 1054, but I've never had it running and to be honest I am not sure I have all the bits on my tractor! I really should do something with that tractor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #12 Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) thanks mike, I've been trying to find a pic of the rear belt tab without going out to the garage and taking a pic. this is the best i can do right now though........ you can see it sitting on the top of the pulley. its about 1/2 diameter rod with a flattened end with a hole that a bolt attaches to the fender...... pics go super big if you click on them...... Edited January 5, 2014 by Martin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
