JAYDOG 69 5 #1 Posted January 2, 2014 well in the process of a frame up resto on my 91 520h when I pulled the trans filer looked water mixed with the oil same thing when I pulled the lines its all through the system it still moved ok before teardown. what would be the cheapest way to clean it out doesn't look like the any of the seals are leaking, think it from sitting outside allot (condensation) any help would be appreciated. thanks jay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 610 #2 Posted January 2, 2014 Flush it with kerosene don't run it just free spin and put fresh oil in run it then change the oil again to make sure you got it all out 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zanepetty 117 #3 Posted January 2, 2014 I agree. That sounds like a plan. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roscoemi 245 #4 Posted January 2, 2014 Change oil and filter a few or four times. Get it warm the first one or two, then get it good and warm for the rest. Once most of the water is out, heat will help lots to get the rest. Just did a fork truck from a flood, it's in service now. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeave96 487 #5 Posted January 3, 2014 Change oil and filter a few or four times. Get it warm the first one or two, then get it good and warm for the rest. Once most of the water is out, heat will help lots to get the rest. Just did a fork truck from a flood, it's in service now. +1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #6 Posted January 5, 2014 Get some butyl cellusolve from the paint store, you'll probably have ti sign for it, drain the trans and refill with a mix of 4 parts oil to 1 part butyl cellusolve and run it just long enough to get the oil warm then do another oil change and you should be good to go. it also works good in engines especially to clean antifreeze out of a crankcase to prevent bearing damage 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,856 #7 Posted January 7, 2014 I wouldn't suggest putting anything other than the proper oil in a Hydro. Kerosene or other products may present problems; multipal oil and filter changes will not. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #8 Posted January 7, 2014 I wouldn't suggest putting anything other than the proper oil in a Hydro. Kerosene or other products may present problems; multipal oil and filter changes will not. I would have to agree with this...... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #9 Posted January 7, 2014 I agree too,just flush it a few times,oil is cheap compared to a pump rebuild,i would change it and the filter,run it hard and get it warmed up good,then change it again with another filter,just how id do it,not saying that the 2nd change is needed for sure,depends how bad it was milky,i have an eaton and Sundstrand and ive only seen that symptom on my 8 speeds,i geuss more moisture gets in the 8 speed 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAYDOG 69 5 #10 Posted January 7, 2014 With the cost of buying 3 or 4 new filters to do this since the trans is not going to be ran that much between oil changes do you think it would be a problem to bypass the filter housing to run and change the oil 2 or 3 times? thanks for all your replies I'm really not that cheap but am disabled and don't have any income until I get approved for ssi after saying that I guess I really am that cheap ha ha thanks, jay , Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roscoemi 245 #11 Posted January 8, 2014 Keep the filter in play, it will help immensely, specifically because it is not run much. When you run it get it hot, the heat will get the water out and keep it out better than anything else you can do. Getting it out after it's there takes a bit of time and oil and filter changes. Keeping it out from then on takes a bit of gas(run time). Not doing it right costs........? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #12 Posted January 9, 2014 I don't know if the filter will actually filter the water out....just the debris...so I am on the fence here.....I guess the thought is that there will be milky oil in the filter and by changing it each time you can eliminate that 1/2 quart.....to reduce costs I would think a filter change, if you can swing it, on the first oil change and then once the oil is cleaned up to satisfaction....another filter change for sure...... You mentioned that it was running good prior to this so.....gotta do what ya gotta do.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 574 #13 Posted January 9, 2014 Having taught science for many years way back, here's the score simplified a little: Water and pure oil are 'immiscible' - they won't mix. You can shake them up in a container but left to stand they simply separate out into layers. Lubricating and transmission oils contain a detergent for various reasons but one effect of this is that if water gets into the oil then the two will appear to mix. The result is called an emulsion which takes on a milky cream appearance and which will not separate out - the detergent effectively holds water and oil molecules (particles) together in suspension. It doesn't take a whole lot of water in the oil to cause this effect. Draining the oil and removing the filter will remove perhaps 95% of the oil water emulsion, the rest will stay attached to the various surfaces of parts in the system. There will actually be little water content left as a result. When the system is run with the fresh oil and filter this will disperse in the fresh oil and may not even show up as an emulsion. It is important to run the system for long enough to thoroughly mix everything. The amount of original water in the system now only 5% of what it was. Repeat the whole process including filter and it will become 5% of 5% or 0.0025 of the original water content. To be honest that would be good enough for me but repeating it again if you can afford would reduce the water to 0.000125 of what was originally in there. I think you can see the principle behind the advice that's been given. If you're on a strict budget then I'd leave the new filter in after the first change and just drain the oil, replace, run to mix, drain again and refill. There will be slightly more of the original water content left but it will still be an incredibly tiny amount. Unless you have a completely sealed system then the oil will take up some moisture from the atmosphere during its timespan in the transmission anyway. I actually guessed at the 5% being left behind as there's no real way of telling and it will vary from system to system but I hope it explains the principles. A tractor that's inadvertantly been driven into a lake will require more thorough cleansing as the detergent in oil can only hold so much water in suspension. The rest will float on the surface of the oil in the sump but that isn't the case in the question posed. Hope this helps Andy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAYDOG 69 5 #14 Posted January 9, 2014 hi andy I do understand that the two do not mix but the fresh oil would hopefully wash the milky substance from internal parts and give it a vehicle to take it to the bottom of the case where it could be drained we hope never the less there's only one to find out. thanks for your advice Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 574 #15 Posted January 9, 2014 In the case of tranny oil (and engine oil for that matter) the oil and water do 'mix' because of the detergent the oil has in it and the oil goes white indicating that an emulsion has formed). Drain it out and renew the filter and all thats left will be a very small amount of water held in any oil thats left in the transmition still coating the various parts and lying in pockets inside. The fresh oil will mix with this when the system is run and that tiny amount will spread out in the fresh oil. Change the oil again and the amount of water left in the sytem will be pretty tiny. It's up to you how many times you do this. Filters are expensive over here in the UK so my path would be drain - new filter fresh oil - run - drain fresh oil run - drain fresh oil - and that would be it as only the very tinyest traces of water would remain in the oil by then. Out of interest, my son has a boat with inboard Mercruiser engine which is raised and lowered by hydraulics. In the course of a season the oil in the reservoir goes milky which is inevitable given the amount of water about and you have to drain the system out and replace with fresh oil whenever the oil shows signs of going milky. No big deal. Hope this makes it a little clearer. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,856 #16 Posted January 10, 2014 By the way, while you are doing the run time remember to exersise the hydraulic lift several times as it shares the same oil. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
