HorseWhisperer 243 #1 Posted December 31, 2013 I want to refit my 953 with a fresh K301 but I want to retain the reliability and look of the starter/generator.Will the tins and all go on the 12 hp motor? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #2 Posted December 31, 2013 That's a question that's hard to answer without knowing more about the 301. I am in the process of doing something similar with a 241 from a 1067 and a late 70's 301. It's a lot more involved than just swapping out the tins and adding the S/G. Get the flywheels off both engines and measure the length of the crankshaft from the bearing plate to the end of the taper. If the 241 crank snout is longer than the 301 crank snout then you have some work to do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseWhisperer 243 #3 Posted December 31, 2013 Didn't give that a thought Terry.It's all in that finding.I was under the impression them big blocks had the same gear inside.I gave the flywheel some thought but never the crank dimension!Lemme know how you make out as I am in the planning stages a couple weeks out! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #4 Posted December 31, 2013 I got through all of the different crank snout / bearing plate modification / remove ring gear from newer flywheel stuff on mine already. I just need to finishing putting it together and get it on the tractor. It's not high-priority and the shop is cold, so that might be a spring project. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseWhisperer 243 #5 Posted January 11, 2014 Alright Terry,I just got my hands on a rode hard and put away wet 1055.It trash but the engine is all there and runs well.I also have a fresh rebuilt K321 cradle motor at my disposal,love to bolt that shallow pan on it w/ starter gen and stuff it in a commando chassis! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #6 Posted January 11, 2014 The 1055 uses the small flywheel and the matching small bearing plate, you will have to swap both, and the shallow pan on the 1055 will fit the small base blocks but you will have to cut the dipper on the bottom of the connecting rod to the correct size. Back to the flywheel and bearing plate, they are smaller on the 1055 engine because the bearing plate and blower tin tin sit over the frame on that tractor, and with the shallow pan they would hit if not smaller, and on a side note you will have to swap the clutch cross shaft, trans pulley and belt guard from the 1055 to make it all work, also the tab from the frame to the belt guard will need a little work to fit correctly. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseWhisperer 243 #7 Posted January 11, 2014 So the only real mod and not swap is the dipper?Have you done this Kelly?And by small base blocks are you referring to cradle motors? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #8 Posted January 11, 2014 Kelly has a more-recent post on here somewhere with better pictures of the blocks but I can't find it. (I think I remember a cut finger.... ) I did find this one from a while ago: The earless blocks were used on the iso-mount Wheel Horses. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseWhisperer 243 #9 Posted January 12, 2014 Ok,I got it!The earless blocks are the iso mounts or I call em cradle motors.That's good news then.!!You kids are the best! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #10 Posted January 12, 2014 Yes I had a boo boo on my finger in one pic, I can't find the post, it was in reply to another engine swap, I may have to start a thread with pics, maybe get it pinned to show the block and pan styles. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseWhisperer 243 #11 Posted January 13, 2014 I found every bit of information "I think" and all the goods to go along with this challenge right here http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1engine.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
