leeave96 487 #1 Posted December 30, 2013 OK - probably perfect is in the eye of the beholder... Day dreaming again here - but... I've got to many tractors, Wheelhorse included and in my next stage of this garden tractor obsession/hobby, I'm thinking about what to keep and what to get rid of and in doing do, how to cull desirable parts from rollers to enhance the worker Wheelhorse tractors I've got. Wheelhorse features that I think (for me) would make the perfect Wheelhorse garden tractor. All of my comments are based on modifying 300 or 400 series tractors. * 8 pinion/ 1-1/8 inch tranny/axles - ultimate strength * 520H seat w/arm rests - comfort * 520H ftont axle and gear reduction steering - strength, comfort * Kohler single cylinder 12, 14 or 16 hp Magnum engine - simple, reliable, head is on top of the engine, easy servicing, no points, etc. * 300/400 series dash tower/hood stand - simple, complete open access to battery area. * Electric lift (gear drives only) - ease of lifting blower or moldboard plow. * 23 x 10 x 12 rear ag tires - excellent traction * Chrome hub caps all around - need some bling... * Rear inside mounted wheel weights - added weight, don't interfere with hub caps * Clevis hitch - plowing, etc. * Matt's foot control (on hydro's) - ease of operation * 1988/89ish Wheelhorse decals - looks * Rope start - back-up starting * Fender mounted cup holder - for favorite beverage * 300/400 series hood - no louvers for occasional rain water to fall through onto engine. What am I missing? So one of the things I might do over the next few years is rid myself of my other color tractors and again focus on the Wheelhorse, but find donors/rollers that I can use/swap parts onto good worker tractors and have a fleet of "Perfect" Wheelhorse tractors! How would you realistically outfit your favorite Wheelhorse to make it a "Perfect" tractor (if it isn't already)? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 501 #2 Posted December 30, 2013 Electric or mechanical PTO? And what about 3pt? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeave96 487 #3 Posted December 30, 2013 Electric or mechanical PTO? And what about 3pt? Definitely mechanical - easy to maintain, can feather on and implement No 3 point hitch, clevis hitch is OK for me. I might also consider a sun shade on the mower/worker - keep the head from turning Wheelhorse red... A little side note on the Wheelhorse mechanical PTO. It is stunning at how much simpler the Wheelhorse mechanical PTO is to access and service vs my old iron other color tractors. Another reason I'm considering riding myself of the other color tractors and throwing my tractor eggs into the Wheelhorse basket... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kai Thomsen 17 #4 Posted January 1, 2014 I like the ideas that's already been listed but i would love to have an diesel engine in it.. something that on the outside looks just like the 12-16hp single cylinder Kohler. Doesn't matter if it's only 6-8hp in the real world. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brandonozz 168 #5 Posted January 1, 2014 Electric or mechanical PTO? And what about 3pt? I'm in agreement here with the the ultimate tractor having a 3 point. You can always run an "A" frame and use the clevis as well. 3 point has built in adjustment and would give you more versatility for using any implement you have (or come across). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 40,738 #6 Posted January 1, 2014 I'd rather have the hood stand/steering of an older model like the C-160. Keep the gear reduction. Older models gave the easier access to the the lift arm and doesn't have the chincy upper brg mount that always gets wallowed out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #7 Posted January 1, 2014 If we are dreaming then... A 520H with a liquid cooled diesel and real power steering but took all the common attachments but please don't wake me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #8 Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) I have been improving my C-120 for the last 26 years. I started with the tie rods and went with Heim joints.Then got rid of the cheap bearings in the front wheel by installing 3500# hubs and spindles and wheels and 6 ply rated tires. Changed out the fan gear to a replacement with a nut instead of a carter key. with new bearings and steering shaft. I changed the engine to a 16 HP Briggs Vanguard to get pressure lubrication as I mow a lot of 30 degree inclines. I also changed the rear tires from 23x8.50x12 - 2 ply to 23x10.50x12 - 4 ply Turf Masters. I ran 80# of wheel weights in each wheel with the 23x8.50x12 to provide traction on the hill sides. When I repainted the tractor I left the weights off and found I didn't need them with Turf Masters. I had to repair the front axle pivot and improved on that, also repaired the rear axle hubs. Added a receiver hitch. Just added brass sleeve bearings on the PTO lever and the clutch idler shaft. The PTO lever was chattering when out of engagement and the idler shaft was making all kinds of rattling when depressing the clutch. I modified the clevis hitch and lift to work with out removing the receiver hitch. I've got it about as bullet-proof as a C-120 8 speed can be. I have a 18 HP Briggs Vanguard on it now. I ran the 16 HP for 20 years and I broke it wasn't the engines fault. I was mowing along a fence line on top of a bank watching the fence. Don't know what happened, If the bank gave way or I got to close, we fell about 4 ft. and landed on the right front wheel, broke the corner of the engine. Had it welded back but it always seeped oil. I know you like the old K-series Kolhers I like them too, just could take the angles I have to mow. I bought the C-120 new in 1977 with a 48" deck. Edited January 2, 2014 by Don1977 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeave96 487 #9 Posted January 2, 2014 I have been improving my C-120 for the last 26 years. I started with the tie rods and went with Heim joints.Then got rid of the cheap bearings in the front wheel by installing 3500# hubs and spindles and wheels and 6 ply rated tires. Changed out the fan gear to a replacement with a nut instead of a carter key. with new bearings and steering shaft. I changed the engine to a 16 HP Briggs Vanguard to get pressure lubrication as I mow a lot of 30 degree inclines. I also changed the rear tires from 23x8.50x12 - 2 ply to 23x10.50x12 - 4 ply Turf Masters. I ran 80# of wheel weights in each wheel with the 23x8.50x12 to provide traction on the hill sides. When I repainted the tractor I left the weights off and found I didn't need them with Turf Masters. I had to repair the front axle pivot and improved on that, also repaired the rear axle hubs. Added a receiver hitch. Just added brass sleeve bearings on the PTO lever and the clutch idler shaft. The PTO lever was chattering when out of engagement and the idler shaft was making all kinds of rattling when depressing the clutch. I modified the clevis hitch and lift to work with out removing the receiver hitch. I've got it about as bullet-proof as a C-120 8 speed can be. I have a 18 HP Briggs Vanguard on it now. I ran the 16 HP for 20 years and I broke it wasn't the engines fault. I was mowing along a fence line on top of a bank watching the fence. Don't know what happened, If the bank gave way or I got to close, we fell about 4 ft. and landed on the right front wheel, broke the corner of the engine. Had it welded back but it always seeped oil. I know you like the old K-series Kolhers I like them too, just could take the angles I have to mow. I bought the C-120 new in 1977 with a 48" deck. Sounds like a nice tractor. Can you post some pics of it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #11 Posted January 2, 2014 I have been improving my C-120 for the last 26 years. I started with the tie rods and went with Heim joints.Then got rid of the cheap bearings in the front wheel by installing 3500# hubs and spindles and wheels and 6 ply rated tires. Changed out the fan gear to a replacement with a nut instead of a carter key. with new bearings and steering shaft. I changed the engine to a 16 HP Briggs Vanguard to get pressure lubrication as I mow a lot of 30 degree inclines. I also changed the rear tires from 23x8.50x12 - 2 ply to 23x10.50x12 - 4 ply Turf Masters. I ran 80# of wheel weights in each wheel with the 23x8.50x12 to provide traction on the hill sides. When I repainted the tractor I left the weights off and found I didn't need them with Turf Masters. I had to repair the front axle pivot and improved on that, also repaired the rear axle hubs. Added a receiver hitch. Just added brass sleeve bearings on the PTO lever and the clutch idler shaft. The PTO lever was chattering when out of engagement and the idler shaft was making all kinds of rattling when depressing the clutch. I modified the clevis hitch and lift to work with out removing the receiver hitch. I've got it about as bullet-proof as a C-120 8 speed can be. I have a 18 HP Briggs Vanguard on it now. I ran the 16 HP for 20 years and I broke it wasn't the engines fault. I was mowing along a fence line on top of a bank watching the fence. Don't know what happened, If the bank gave way or I got to close, we fell about 4 ft. and landed on the right front wheel, broke the corner of the engine. Had it welded back but it always seeped oil. I know you like the old K-series Kolhers I like them too, just could take the angles I have to mow. I bought the C-120 new in 1977 with a 48" deck. Sounds like a nice tractor. Can you post some pics of it? 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
