How Do You Fill Tires With Fluid?

[benjiboo 174]

I've read a lot on here about folks filling their tires with fluid to gain extra weight at the drive axle for more traction but am unclear as to how to go about actually filling the tires. What methods do you guys use and what materials/tools do you use to get it in there? Thanks guys/gals!

[KC9KAS 4,741]

This was just discussed earlier this year in this thread:

 

[GlenPettit 1,716]

Depends what liquid you're filling the tires with.

•  Don't use Salt Brine (very bad for enviroment, professional install only, can rust metal wheels).

•  Best liquid to use is RimGuard (very safe for earth, natural, from sugar beets, pro install), a 16" front tire takes 2 gal each, at 11#/gal, and the rear tires take 5+ gal each (costs about $2.50/gal plus pumping, maybe $8-12/gal), liquid to -10º, will not rust metal.

•  RV Antifreeze or Windshield Washer Fluid, (both liquids you can fill yourself, "some" brands are considered safer than others).  There is a special tool at Auto Parts stores, called a 'Liquid filler' $12.  Or, you can do it the manual suction way: use a 1/4" 'fish air hose', insert in fluid jar and with the tire off and laying flat, knee; on the rubber compressing it, insert the other end of the hose on the empty (insert removed) air stem, each time you release your knees the suction will pull in 8-10 oz.  A gallon of these is about the same weight as water, 8#.

•  Fill both the front and rear tires (so you'll need about 14 gallons total), Weight on the front is very important for steering control, when the blade is up you do have a lot of weight on the front tires, but when it's down and pushing, its action actually lightens the front causing sway, you need that 30-40# there.  Weight gives you a lot more traction, but keep it low and on the wheels.  You need that extra weight when roto-tilling also, both front and rear (but not for mowing).    

• In your case, with just one Wheel Horse, a second set of tires would be very smart (filled Rear Ag Bar-Lugs for Snow and Tilling and filled Tri-Rib or Bar Lugs for front, both at 40PSI), and then use empty light and wide front & rear Turf tires for summer, at 10PSI.  A set of extra tires can cost, but that's the very best way for the most traction, Chains on turf tires will also give you lots of traction, but may damage pavement.  New tires are much better than old dry cracked and rounded rubber.  Best to fill new tires, or be sure to use tubes if the tires are old.  But you should not use filled tires when cutting grass, the weight may leave ruts in soft moist soil and will compack it, and it's much too hard to try and drain the liquid out each year.   Or do like most of us have done,  just get a second or third Wheel Horse.

Good Luck,  Glen

 

My position of the Ag Bar Lug tires is that the less rubber you have on the ground, the more PSI (pounds per square inch) you have per square inch of rubber ON the ground, giving you more traction, as compared to Turf tires that have a large "footprint".  And chains on Turf tires would give even more than Bar Lugs without chains, but may cause damage.  (A sleigh or pair of snowshoes glides on top of the snow, where a ski pole digs in to give you traction.)  Also, up here in the North, snow plow trucks always plow snow with a full load of salt for weight, then they make a second pass to spread and empty the salt. More aggressive tires on the front grab better traction to stop side movement.

Edited December 22, 2013 by GlenPettit

[benjiboo 174]

This was just discussed earlier this year in this thread:

 

Ya, I had searched for this subject and did not find that thread. Even though it's nearly a year old I'm surprised it did not pop up.

[benjiboo 174]

Depends what liquid you're filling the tires with.

•  Don't use Salt Brine (very bad for enviroment, professional install only, can rust metal wheels).

•  Best liquid to use is RimGuard (very safe for earth, natural, from sugar beets, pro install), a 16" front tire takes 2 gal each, at 11#/gal, and the rear tires take 5+ gal each (costs about $2.50/gal plus pumping, maybe $8-12/gal), liquid to -10º, will not rust metal.

•  RV Antifreeze or Windshield Washer Fluid, (both liquids you can fill yourself, "some" brands are considered safer than others).  There is a special tool at Auto Parts stores, called a 'Liquid filler' $12.  Or, you can do it the manual suction way: use a 1/4" 'fish air hose', insert in fluid jar and with the tire off and laying flat, knee; on the rubber compressing it, insert the other end of the hose on the empty (insert removed) air stem, each time you release your knees the suction will pull in 8-10 oz.  A gallon of these is about the same weight as water, 8#.

•  Fill both the front and rear tires (so you'll need about 14 gallons total), Weight on the front is very important for steering control, when the blade is up you do have a lot of weight on the front tires, but when it's down and pushing, its action actually lightens the front causing sway, you need that 30-40# there.  Weight gives you a lot more traction, but keep it low and on the wheels.  You need that extra weight when roto-tilling also, both front and rear (but not for mowing).    

• In your case, with just one Wheel Horse, a second set of tires would be very smart (filled Rear Ag Bar-Lugs for Snow and Tilling and filled Tri-Rib or Bar Lugs for front, both at 40PSI), and then use empty light and wide front & rear Turf tires for summer, at 10PSI.  A set of extra tires can cost, but that's the very best way for the most traction, Chains on turf tires will also give you lots of traction, but may damage pavement.  New tires are much better than old dry cracked and rounded rubber.  Best to fill new tires, or be sure to use tubes if the tires are old.  But you should not use filled tires when cutting grass, the weight may leave ruts in soft moist soil and will compack it, and it's much too hard to try and drain the liquid out each year.   Or do like most of us have done,  just get a second or third Wheel Horse.

Good Luck,  Glen

 

My position of the Ag Bar Lug tires is that the less rubber you have on the ground, the more PSI (pounds per square inch) you have per square inch of rubber ON the ground, giving you more traction, as compared to Turf tires that have a large "footprint".  And chains on Turf tires would give even more than Bar Lugs without chains, but may cause damage.  (A sleigh or pair of snowshoes glides on top of the snow, where a ski pole digs in to give you traction.)  Also, up here in the North, snow plow trucks always plow snow with a full load of salt for weight, then they make a second pass to spread and empty the salt. More aggressive tires on the front grab better traction to stop side movement.

Thanks for your help Glen. I found a 'fill adapter' that you referenced at TSC and used that to connect to the valve stem. I had a 12volt pump from a tank sprayer that did the pumping and it worked flawlessly. I used 5 gallons of -20* washer fluid in each rear tire. Seems like it did make a big difference for traction.

[sorekiwi 761]

I loaded mine with windshield fluid, about 7 gallons in each.  I didn't use that fancy valve, I just removed the valve stem and slipped a piece of fuel line over the valve with a small funnel on the other end.  Poured the fluid in slowly and allowing the air to burp out.  It probably took about 20 minutes per tire to fill them about 90%.

 

My snow set-up is turf tires with chains, 7 gallons per tire, and 6 psi of air.  Unfilled front tires, but narrow, running 4.00x8 tri-ribs at 10 psi.

Also remember to have the valve at the top when you check tire pressure.  Unless you want to fill your tire gauge with antifreeze!

[Stigian 1,234]

Ok.. This may not be the best of photos but it's the only one I could find 

I used a car screen washer bottle and pump to fill wheels up with a screen wash/water mix.. The tires were fitted with tubes.

 

[AMC RULES 37,125]

                     

 

Ok.. This may not be the best of photos but it's the only one I could find 

 

 

[nyquil junkie 225]

I loaded the tires on my last tractor with sand. If the tires are old and cracked you aint losing much by trying it.

Lay the tire on its side flat on something, cut a slot in the sidewall just enough to get a funnel spout into. Fill er up with dry sand, shake it down, keep adding and shaking it until you cant get anymore in. Glue a tire patch over the slit.

They are slightly squishy tires, but they weigh a ton and give good traction.

Oh and they dont leak air.... lol