Jump to content
Martin

eaton 1100 'bench testing' question

Recommended Posts

Martin

trying to determine whether i have a good trans or not and have a question or more.

i have an eaton 1100 in a rolling chassis that i want to test to see if its working well enough to justify using in a new tractor rebuild. i hooked it up to my 1848 pto with a longer mower belt to test it out. oil looks very clean so i left it and i know i need to get the correct filter on there, but for now its staying until i see some light at the end of the tunnel.

 

post-4321-0-25542600-1386206328_thumb.jp

 

post-4321-0-58392300-1386206349_thumb.jp

 

just did a quick test tonight to see if i could at least get the lift to work. success on the first pull of the lever. hydro pump seems very quiet and no leaking or damp areas either. i worked the lift up and down from one extent to the other and it worked as good as any nice working lift i have. so I'm happy so far, now the questions......

 

to test the drive I'm going to get it up off the ground and see if i can get the wheels to turn in either direction. i want to run it this way for quite a while until i can get some raising of oil temp. 

 

is putting weight on the lift going to change anything as far as a test goes? i figure if it goes up and down, is quiet doing so and doesn't leak, I'm 99 % there....

is there any way to check to see if it is loosing pressure when it gets warmer?

can a gauge be hooked up and is this easy enough to do?

is it even worth finding out the pressures? what will having them tell me?

is this a good enough way to test the whole hydro system? i think it will tell me at least if its working and if there are any leaks. i don't have a working engine that i can just throw in there to drive it around without puling one of my old starter gen motors from an unrestored 1277. i know this is probably the best way, drive it and get it nice and hot to be sure. i could swap it out from one of the other 1100s but then i got to deal with hoses etc and not really interested in pulling apart good working systems and opening other cans of worms.

 

while it was running, and over the noise of the engine in the 1848, the pump seemed to be very quiet, quieter than the other 2 1100 tractors are. both of the other 1100s work well and aside from one having a leak in the lift, they both are leak free. 

 

ao at this stage i am happy with how things are going. just wondering if there was some expert opinions to help me on my way with some ideas.....

 

thanks in advance for any input, fire away guys..... :thumbs:  

Edited by Martin
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Martin

I will also post some video of how it works out as I test this thing out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

I did the same thing with a Sunstrand. You at least know is works some. You really need to load it to make sure. The only thing I can think off is maybe putting the frame against some thing immovable and seeing if you can get the tires to break lose on the ground. Kind of dangerous though. Putting a running engine on the roller with the bare bones hooked up might be the best way.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Martin

Like push the tractor up against the wall and lay some rubber in the garage?

I'm leaning towards swapping out a good running engine more and more, I think it will be easier in the end....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Save Old Iron

a quick thought ...  if the trans won't heat itself - apply some heat to thin out the trans fluid and retry your lift test.

 

or does the lift work off the charge pump only?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
sorekiwi

I haven't ever done it but the Eaton 1100 Manual has some info on hooking up a gauge and testing charge pump pressure.

 

The trans in my 520 (which one day soon will be swapped out) takes at least a couple of minutes running (in Summer) before it will lift a 48" deck.  The one in my Diesel tractor will lift the same deck instantly.  However when driving the 520 trans works fine and performance doesn't seem to drop off at all, even after the trans temp light has been on for half an hour or so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Martin

thanks for the input so far guys........

 

i went through the manual and could see where they say to hook up the gauge for charge and lift pressure. 

i might look into getting some sort of gauge and fittings to test pressure etc.

 

tonight i pulled both the eaton 1100 and its carcass and my 1848 outside on the driveway and chained the hitch of the carcass to the front axle of the 1848. just enough chain that the belt would only pull tight enough not to slip. i didn't want to put too much side load on the hydro pump. hooked up the belt and ran it for about half hour like that. didn't really get it hot, more 'warm' as i felt the filter. i think to be sure i need to load it up more to get more heat in it, but it helped to put a bit of forward pressure on the trans every now and again, enough to drag the 1848 on its brake on the rough concrete. it only took a very minor movement of the dcl to get the tires to break loose on the rough concrete.

 

once i had it running for about half hour i blocked the front wheels of the carcass with a 8 ft long piece of 4x6, just the right size to wedge it under the wheels and grip a little on the rough concrete driveway. the lift continued to work great. but i really wanted to see how the trans was so i started to load it up by going forward on the dcl. it would break loose immediately, any forward movement resulted in spinning of the rear tires and/or dragging the tires of the 1848 along the concrete on the park brakes. i stood up on the foot boards to add some weight to the rear. same deal, instant spinning of tires/dragging of 1848. i would like to get it hotter and see if there is any change, but as of right now i couldn't notice any difference between the drive from dead cold to warm. the tractor was real hard to push back in the garage afterwards so that also tells me that the 'fluid' coupling of the pump is working how it should. it took maybe 30 minutes for it to roll a little easier after running it.

 

heres how i had it hooked up....

 

post-4321-0-44432600-1386286448_thumb.jp

 

heres two videos of it running, first one is operating the lift....

 

 

second one is putting some rubber on the concrete. still not enough weight on it so i stood on the footboards after this, wasn't game enough to try and video that though.....

 

 

heres the concrete under the tires......

 

post-4321-0-87089000-1386286463_thumb.jp

 

post-4321-0-59220300-1386286483_thumb.jp

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
sorekiwi

And meantime the neighbors are wondering why that crazy foreigner is doing burn-outs on his driveway with yet another damn lawn-mower.

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • giant_g2
      By giant_g2
      Not sure on specific model. This 8 spd came attached to a plow I bought. It had some water in it for a couple weeks according to the prior owner. I drained it, sloshed some diesel in it, drained that, then filled with fresh oil. Spinning the input shaft by hand, I can see the axels turn. Hasn't leaked any oil. I'm not really interested in shipping, so I'd prefer local sales.

    • Doug B
      By Doug B
      Hey guys,I have a dilemma I need some help with. I have a 1969 GT 14 that I replaced the transmission and pump on. For about 2 weeks afterward everything worked great, but while mowing at a pretty good pace I noticed a shudder and the tractor slowed a little but not bad. The more I rode it the slower it got until it barely moves. What stumps me is the hydraulics are still very strong,as in I can back the 3 point under the bumper of my truck and if you lift the arms all the way up the front wheels of the tractor will clear the ground. Have checked the tow valve and checked the internal filter,but no luck. I have also checked and replaced the forward and reverse bypass springs and the lever is moving the cam to full travel, forward and reverse. Any help would be appreciated.
    • mattd860
      By mattd860
      I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that

      The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.

      The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal. 

      The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500. 
       
      My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information. 
       
      Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: CLICK HERE
       
      I am selling these kits for $330 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
       
      If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at mattdarling02@hotmail.com.

      Thanks!
       
       
      Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below. 
       

       

       

       

       

       
    • Dylan2342
      By Dylan2342
      New here! hello everyone! In a bit of a pickle here. My father owns a 1993 (I think that is the right year) 520H Wheel Horse. I don't commonly work on tractors but it seemed simple enough. the axle snapped on the left side, so it needed a new transmission. My dad bought a used transmission and I went to work changing everything out. The hydraulic pump that the engine's drive belt attaches to went to a different model/year of tractor, so I had to remove that part and swap it in from the old transmission. In the process I lost all of the oil in the pump (I mention this because I wonder if it has to do with my problem I'm having). When I reassembled everything I started the slow process of filling the transmission. I filled it up and started the engine. When moving the lever forward or backward, it had a tiny bit of power for a little bit and then lost power. The transmission wasn't doing anything, anymore. I though maybe that hydraulic pump needed to be primed, so we took the top hydraulic line off of the hydraulic pump right above the drive belt and used a transfer pump to pump some oil into the pump case. This still didn't work. I don't have enough experience with these hydrostatic transmissions to know if we got a bad transmission or if there is something obvious that I am missing when it comes to a transmission swap. I ask for any insight and help please. If you need pictures or any other info, then let me know what you need. Thank you!
    • Porkskin
      By Porkskin
      I have no understanding of what it is like to push one of these when the trans is disengaged and motion lever is in the forward position as the manual mentions. I hope this is not old ground and that I am not cross posting. With the trans disengaged and motion lever set forward there is still something spinning in and about the transaxle that is giving resistance. I need to know if this is normal or if I should be expecting more of a free wheeling experience. In effect, much less resistance. Thank you for comments or pointing me to a topic that already covers this. 
×
×
  • Create New...