zanepetty 117 #1 Posted October 30, 2013 Should I go with a single stage or double stage paint on my tractor? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,718 #2 Posted October 30, 2013 Did you mean single-stage or basecoat/clearcoat? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W/H JUNKY 43 #4 Posted October 31, 2013 I have been using PPGs Shop Line it is a single stag or (enamel) The brand code is 71310 it is JAU international Red. it looks great Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,718 #5 Posted October 31, 2013 I too have been using the same PPG Shop Line single-stage acrylic urethane paint, but I am not happy with it. The last batch that I got did not cover well. I had to apply a minimum of 3, sometimes 4 coats in order to get a good solid cover, and because it is so thin, it ran and sagged on vertical surfaces. If I stick with PPG, I am going to try basecoat/clearcoat next time. Otherwise, I am going to have the Wheel Horse red (72034) mixed in a different grade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,633 #6 Posted October 31, 2013 BC?CC is great. THe Basecoat dries super fast. The clear I would have liked to use is a spot/panel clear. It dries a tad faster than overall clear. I've used it before and it works great. They gave me overall clear when I did Marvin and didn't notice it until I had it mixed. Dries a lot slower and it would sag a bit and it's a pain keeping bugs and junk out of it when it's drying. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zanepetty 117 #7 Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) OK. I guess I'll go with base coat clear coat. I guess that goes for the frame too? Also I'm in a pickle because I was told by a local body shop that I can't spray enamel over the primer I got because it has to be sealed over first. Otherwise the paint won't stick to my self etching stuff.And it has to be sealed over in no longer than 30 mins after it was primed. Napa didn't advise me of this so the primer has been on there for a week. Can I just sand blast my engine if I plug up all the holes somehow or is that too risky for an assembled engine? Edited October 31, 2013 by zanepetty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken B 3,164 #8 Posted November 1, 2013 I personally would not sand blast that engine. One grain of sand in your engine will kill it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrick Reese 40 #9 Posted November 1, 2013 I personally would not sand blast that engine. One grain of sand in your engine will kill it. Ditto that from experience.. years ago before I was wiser I had a Farmall Cub sandblasted to paint and although the shop duct taped everything up they didn't think of the breather cap, they left it on. After I saw this I immediately dumped the oil and washed oil through the crank case. Unfortunately a Cub that didn't smoke before blasting became a heavy smoker afterwards.. coincidence? I think not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zanepetty 117 #10 Posted November 1, 2013 Oh man. That is scary. I guess she WONT get blasted after all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrick Reese 40 #11 Posted November 1, 2013 Zane I don't have any experience with napa paints.. everyone has their preferences. Depending on your skill level and the equipment available to you. My son and I recently restored a Commando 6 (there is a thread on it under restorations). We decided to use spray cans. We chose this method as it allowed us to do a little at a time without the worry of gun clean up and such. We used Rustoleum red primer in the larger industrial cans. This primer was nice, it filled well and sanded out smooth. For our top coat we decided to try out a Duplicolor high heat engine paint for the entire tractor. This flowed out well and looked great. The only caveat to any of the spray can paints is lack of hardener. We were patient and let our painted parts outgas and harden for almost a month before messing with them. Key to any paint job is the prep. A smooth surface prior to paint and a dust free environment while painting are really important. To date we are happy with our paint job. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zanepetty 117 #12 Posted November 1, 2013 It does look very sharp! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zanepetty 117 #13 Posted November 1, 2013 Did you apply the other primers over your self etching stuff in 20 minute intervals? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,155 #14 Posted November 22, 2013 I've used case new holland red tractor single stage paint I use cheap Walmart primer on all the little things and the frame and trans and I use a more pricier automotive primer on the hood and more visible stuff and I have had no problems even after a couple years still looks like new and that tractor paint will cover anything and stick to anything and has UV protection in it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zanepetty 117 #15 Posted November 22, 2013 Wow that looks nice. So far I've used all finish one acme products from Napa. But all I've done is primer so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
