Martin 2,132 #476 Posted August 5, 2014 (edited) you guys do realize you will have to pry my butt off the seat, don't you?..... i started this build around the last week in January this year and its now August......way too much time spent building this one and not anywhere near enough seat time!!!! Edited August 5, 2014 by Martin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #477 Posted August 5, 2014 It will take you at least 5 years to get the amount of seat time to match the time you used to build this beauty. In my opinion it was entirely worth it. I am so jealous I could spit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #478 Posted August 5, 2014 Looks great Martin and I am sure it drives great too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dclarke 4,033 #479 Posted August 5, 2014 you guys do realize you will have to pry my butt off the seat, don't you?..... i started this build around the last week in January this year and its now August......way too much time spent building this one and not anywhere near enough seat time!!!! We might have to gang up on you, Martin..... Just sayin. Make sure to top off the tank before you come to Sycamore. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 610 #480 Posted August 6, 2014 Wow looks great. So here's the big question what will she be used for? Hopefully and easy job lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DotheDoo 15 #481 Posted August 25, 2014 They are Carlisle All Trail 23 x 10.50-12 on 12 x 8.5 wheels. in my opinion you really need the 8.5 wheels for this size tire. you would probably have the 12 x 7 wheels on a 312 if they are oem. i see they make a 23 x 8.00 -12 but not seeing an 23 x 8.5-12. 23 x 8.5-12 or 23 x 9.5-12 is probably best on the 12 x 7 wheels. oh, and they are on JD rims that the centers were cut out and moved to the same offset as Wheel Horse, but don't tell anybody. A set of Wheel Horse 12 x 8.5 rims will work too....... OK, Yes I have the OEM wheels. Thanks and BTW, What a gorgeous job you have done! Just incredible. Rob 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrabHorse 2 #482 Posted August 27, 2014 (edited) Really nice work. I like everything about this tractor, its great! Are you happy with the km 123 seat? I was looking at that same one for my mowing tractor, a 520h. Also I wish I knew of a place to get parts plated like you had done. Edited August 27, 2014 by DrabHorse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #483 Posted August 27, 2014 That seat is the most comfortable seat I've ever had...... Thank you for the comments! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
608KEB 795 #484 Posted September 2, 2014 Martin, could you tell me where you got the bushing at the top of your steering rod? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #485 Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) this one? part #6472, purchased from parts tree.com (i think so). Toro dealers would also carry them and you could probably get them on ebay too. they are easy to do for an 8 speed, but the hydro tractors with the column controls will need some cutting on the flange of the bearing....... Edited September 2, 2014 by Martin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 610 #486 Posted September 3, 2014 Isn't that the flange bearing for the steering shaft its self? Is it an easy installment? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #487 Posted September 3, 2014 yes, its the lower one up at the front of the frame..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
608KEB 795 #488 Posted September 3, 2014 Thanks Martin. I have a 520H I'm not sure that would work.I have the steering out of it. I can measure the bearing in front and see if it would work. I thought maybe the bearing you used would be more sturdy than the bushing that was in it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #489 Posted September 3, 2014 I did this bearing mod on my 312H. I made a plate, cut off the bearing flanges and welded it to the plate. I then bolted the plate to the sheetmetal. The control rods pass thru it.Here are some pics. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #490 Posted September 3, 2014 Rich, that is definitely a good method of overcoming the hydro levers. only one thing i would add and it concerns the bolts used to attach whether your method or mine is used and that is to test fit the warning light panel as you are doing this mod. that panel fits in tight at that bottom return that we are using to bolt in the bearing and bolt head clearance could be an issue depending on what bolt heads you use. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #491 Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) When I did a eight speed I did not even think about a hydro with the control levers coming up through there. Wow what a pain. Looks like you handled it just fine. You will like the improvement. Just read Martins post. He's right, that circuit board is a tight fit. Edited September 3, 2014 by MalMac Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #492 Posted September 3, 2014 That's true about the bolt height. I went out and took a look , The circuit board actually clears the bolt but rests on top slightly, it doesn't put any strain on the board though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,580 #493 Posted February 6, 2015 I like the method described above, and I was going to do that with my 416-H, but when I checked the clearance of the circuit board, it was very tight. Just trying to get the LED's to line up and slip into the tiny rubber grommets was a pain without the modification. I opted to do it this way. I'm sure that in the long run, yours will be stronger. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #494 Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) Since Bob has bumped this thread, (thanks Bob!) i thought id share a decal change that #1 is going through right now. #1 has been more than earning its keep lately with all the snow we've had. the tall chute blower/416 combo is just tearing up the snow around here. couldn't ask for more from this revived from the dead blower, the auger has a small balance problem which needs to be sorted, but for now its going to be used as is for the rest of the winter........ so since #1 has been working so hard its getting a reward with new decals, hood and seat pan decals are done and on the tractor, just waiting for the hood stand side decals to arrive in the mail and they will be on too..... Thanks Terry for putting up with me again!!!! #1 hasn't had much time in this thread of late so here are some pics..... this will be the hood stand side decal design, probably should have waited until i got these on too, but whatever, i feel like posting something right now........... Edited February 7, 2015 by Martin 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,176 #495 Posted February 8, 2015 I like It Martin!! Very Nice!! Just curious, what do those Deere weights weigh?? I do know that its alot of "Dead" weight .... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #496 Posted February 8, 2015 Thanks Terry, the weights are 42 lbs each Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turbo 12 #497 Posted November 21, 2015 Martin,I watched your video's regarding "engine surging" earlier in this forum. I know you said you thought it would clear up in time and I believe you changed the carburetor. Anyway, I recently rescued a 416-8 and when the engine is under load (mowing for example) it is surging significantly. I could only mow in 1st gear because of the hunting engine. I haven't done any investigative work yet short of fresh fuel and filter, but what steps do you recommend towards a cure? Thanks for any insights, Greg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #498 Posted November 24, 2015 If you are referring to the first case of surging way back in the beginning of this whole thing here, then a thorough carb cleaning is what fixed it. You need to make sure you clean out all the little holes and jets as anything you miss will make you go through it all over again. Ive posted many times in this thread and others about all the areas you need to pay attention to, other members have as well. Your problem seems typical of a dirty carb. Do yourself a favor and pull it, using the experience of others on here with their pics and postings and get it cleaned up. Im going to say don't bother with all the cleaners and other fixes with adding stuff to the gas tank, squirting cleaner down the carb etc. while keeping it running on the tractor. You really need to get the top of that carb and get all the problem areas properly........ Ive done a few without pulling the carb from the engine. The top comes off and you can access the main problem areas. Not as good as pulling the carb and soaking it but sometimes all it takes is to unblock the small holes in the idle tube and main jet cleanup. Definitely worth the effort. Look here..... http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/43225-416-adventures/?do=findComment&comment=396587 I also had an issue with really bad surging (or hunting) symptoms that ended up being a governor issue, not sure if this is what you are experiencing or not. this was not related to a dirty carb, which i think is your problem.... This post and the few following it.... http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/43225-416-adventures/?do=findComment&comment=408363 hope you sort it out....... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #499 Posted November 24, 2015 Ive been quiet on here for a while. The tractors have been pushed aside for most of this year, too busy with home projects and other things that are pulling at me. Only just recently have been working on a tractor or two. Saturday, i spent some time fixing a hydro system leak on #1, the hard line (pressure) that runs from the lower part of the pump to the lift valve was rusty and damp right where it runs along the top of the frame rail. I also found a crack right on the last bend before it gets to the pump. So got that done and today i had some time to finally put on some redesigned decals that Terry printed up for me about 2 months ago. Some of these were for the hydro 416 (#1) and some were for the 8 speed (#3). I haven't spent any time with the 8 speed since the Mo. meet and greet last year, more than 12 months ago. It had been put away straight off the trailer (drove home in the rain) so it needed some tlc before i could do the decals. i felt ashamed of myself after spending so much time building this one and putting so many hours into it and then i just left it like this all year. I know its only a tractor but usually i look after things so much better than this. Anyway, enough crying, heres some pics of the cleaned up 416-8 and the new design decals....... almost forgot about these ones too..... Terry made these two up for me must have been 12 month ago and have never got around to putting them on. Thanks for all your work making them right, Terry. @Vinylguy The air cleaner one only ever gets seen if you have the lid off, but there was one there originally, so i wanted to put one back there. The engine spec decal has all the correct numbers as the original and finishes it off..... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,176 #500 Posted November 24, 2015 Very Nice Martin!! Is that the one you let me take for a drive around a couple years ago?? felt like I was driving a brand new tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
