running a k181 for 24-72 hrs, what do you think?

[bean 85]

I bought a belt driven generator several months ago. it is 2000w and was coupled to a kohler k181. the pulleys have a 2to1 ratio, so the engine turns a 1800rpm while the generator turns at 3600. the previous owner said he ran it for 48hrs at a time while camping.

I am mounting it to my '73 8hp in case of power outages, which we have at least 1 per winter. most of the time they are 12-24 hrs, but have been 2-3 days a few times. I have a Honda eu1000 for our electronics, but it won't power any appliances

just curious, how comfortable would you be running your k series for 2-3 days?

my other option is to use a honda gx200 6-1/2hp to power everything. the one advantage to that, I can install a tri-fuel carb on the Honda engine, and run it off of propane. we have 2 100 gal tanks.  that way, I wouldn't have to get up in the middle of the night to refuel.

also, do I need to ground the tractor, when the generator is in use?

Edited October 9, 2013 by bean

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,300]

 I suppose if the oil is fresh and full the Kohler should be fine running for all those hours, maybe do an oil change after running for a couple days but.....its a splash lubed motor and running that long at such a slow speed might be a bad idea. I think it should have the pulleys swapped so that the engine is running at least 3000 rpm's for proper internal lubrication of the motor.

  For simplicity and longer run time between fill-ups the Honda idea is your best bet. Not to mention they are a quieter motor.

Personally I have never grounded a generator feeding my house and the reason is this. If a tree (for example) comes down and whacks the wires out at the street you have lost everythinmg BUT the ground to your house. Your ground to your house comes from your outside ground rod (2 rods if its a newer house in Connecticut) and maybe your water pipe feeding the house if its not plastic. You never loose your house ground in a power outage. If the generator is being used on a construction site and all the guys plugged into it are relying on the generator to provide a 120v hot leg, nuetral and a ground then it should have a rod driven next to it and a wire run from the rod to the genset.

  My opinion of course, I'm not a generator expert.

  Mike............

[SousaKerry 501]

Considering that may of these engines were used on generators, refer units, water pumps and such all long hour running applications you should be fine as long as your maintenances are up to date.  Although I would ditch the 2 to 1 pulley setup as the engines are designed to run at 3700 for proper cooling, lubrication, and full power.  IT will be louder and more thirsty then your Honda 

[bean 85]

thanks gentlemen.

I was also concerned  about the slow speed in a splash lube engine. the genny requires 5hp at full load, so I hate to run an 8hp engine to use it. but, it's not really a big concern, as it is just a few times a year.

the noise factor is my biggest concern. the po said he ran 2-300 ft of extension cord to get it at a tolerable noise level.

this is an older Dayton brand generator. the engine is 1969, so I think the head was the same year. it has one wire inside the receptacle box. the other 2 legs of the receptacle are directly grounded to the steel box.

[bean 85]

 I suppose if the oil is fresh and full the Kohler should be fine running for all those hours, maybe do an oil change after running for a couple days but.....its a splash lubed motor and running that long at such a slow speed might be a bad idea. I think it should have the pulleys swapped so that the engine is running at least 3000 rpm's for proper internal lubrication of the motor.

  For simplicity and longer run time between fill-ups the Honda idea is your best bet. Not to mention they are a quieter motor.

Personally I have never grounded a generator feeding my house and the reason is this. If a tree (for example) comes down and whacks the wires out at the street you have lost everythinmg BUT the ground to your house. Your ground to your house comes from your outside ground rod (2 rods if its a newer house in Connecticut) and maybe your water pipe feeding the house if its not plastic. You never loose your house ground in a power outage. If the generator is being used on a construction site and all the guys plugged into it are relying on the generator to provide a 120v hot leg, nuetral and a ground then it should have a rod driven next to it and a wire run from the rod to the genset.

  My opinion of course, I'm not a generator expert.

  Mike............

I was considering grounding to the same copper rods that my house is grounded to, but you make a good point. I will have to ask one of my electrician friends.

[Fordiesel69 259]

My 8HP generator has a very tight piston, nice crosshatch, and tight valves, yet still uses some oil.  Not sure where it is going but it uses some.  I run mine 8 hrs max and check the oil. 

[Hodge71 664]

One thing I can tell you from experience as an electrician and installing back-up gensets, both portable and permanent pad mounted units. The farther away you run the power the larger the extension cord. If you plan on running 300 feet away from your house you better have #10 wire in your extension cord. Wire smaller than that will have about 100 volts at the end and it will only get worse as load increases. I would also never, ever suggest running any generator for 24-48 hours continuously under load unless its a pad mount permanent type that has a 100% continuous duty cycle. People buy generators from these big box stores and then run them for 3 days under load and wonder why they smoke them.  Needless to say your Wheel Horse was never intended to run for 2 days straight. I would cycle things and run for maybe 4 hours and off for 4. Keep an eye on both your voltage and your amperage. turn it on for 6 hours or so before you go to bed at night and off for the whole night with an extra blanket on the bed. Also, you will never get a dime from your insurance if you let the smoke out of  $3000 in appliances because you voltage wasn't correct....Ask me how I know!!!.

Edited October 9, 2013 by hodge71

[JackC 617]

I think I would buy one of those $200 Honda or Kohler engines from tractor supply and not risk my wheel horse engine.  You could put everything on wheels with a large fuel tank like a 5 or 6 gallon plastic container.

[WH nut 553]

I would suggest grounding the generator for the simple fact if the gen shorts out your tractor wont become live.

[bean 85]

lots of great advice. I think I will go ahead and set it up for this winter. I don't have to use it nonstop.  the Honda eu1000 will run all our electronics and a light circuit.  the larger genset will run my furnace and water heater, which is what I am mostly interested in. we heat with firewood, but if we had to leave for several hours, or were incapacitated, it would be nice to set  the furnace and not have to worry about the wood stove

I am concerned about the "dirty" electricity from the generator. my furnace, like most, has a circuit board. same for my water heater. the water heater is about dead, so it may be the test volunteer

hopefully, I won't need to use it at all

[WH nut 553]

You wont be able to run a water heater with a 2000 watt generator, most have 2 1500 watt elements.

[Hodge71 664]

You wont be able to run a water heater with a 2000 watt generator, most have 2 1500 watt elements.

 

If its a gas or propane heater all you have is 120 volts for controls with about .5 amps of draw

[Tinhorse 0]

When I bought my C-175 from a guy in 1990 he included a Wheel Horse generator that is 5000 watts. It mounts on the front of the tractor and to the pto. It works great. I've used it to power a small mig welder or compressor on the farm when I need to fix something away from the garage. Also, it works good to power our freezer and frig and lights during power outages. I ground it to the ground rod at the electric meter.

[bean 85]

You wont be able to run a water heater with a 2000 watt generator, most have 2 1500 watt elements.

it's propane. it has a fan-driven draft inducer, so it  has to have 110v. I haven't checked the fla, but probably 8-10amps

Edited October 10, 2013 by bean

[Wheel-N-It 2,968]

One thing I can tell you from experience as an electrician and installing back-up gensets, both portable and permanent pad mounted units. The farther away you run the power the larger the extension cord. If you plan on running 300 feet away from your house you better have #10 wire in your extension cord. Wire smaller than that will have about 100 volts at the end and it will only get worse as load increases. I would also never, ever suggest running any generator for 24-48 hours continuously under load unless its a pad mount permanent type that has a 100% continuous duty cycle. People buy generators from these big box stores and then run them for 3 days under load and wonder why they smoke them.  Needless to say your Wheel Horse was never intended to run for 2 days straight. I would cycle things and run for maybe 4 hours and off for 4. Keep an eye on both your voltage and your amperage. turn it on for 6 hours or so before you go to bed at night and off for the whole night with an extra blanket on the bed. Also, you will never get a dime from your insurance if you let the smoke out of  $3000 in appliances because you voltage wasn't correct....Ask me how I know!!!.

 

Hodge is spot on here. I have 36 years experience in the Electrical Industry, with the last 20 as an Inspector who inspects alot of generator installations.

I know it would be a great Wheel Horse experience to have one of these tractors set up with a generator, but for all practical purposes it is best to limit this to no more than a day. Anything more is going to require a more modern powerplant such as something Honda or Briggs In-Tek powered at the very least. Stay away from the cheap Chinese crap. Go ahead and spend the money on a good generator. Its a good investment.

[Kelly 1,029]

I have 2 generators I use, I run a tank of fuel through one and fire up the other let the first one cool off, top off the fuel, run the second till out of gas and start over, they are both 2800 W with 5hp briggs on them, both are at least 30 years old, I just changed out the orig. painted spark plugs in them, last year, I also change the oil every 12 to 18 hours in them, oil is cheap, they only hold a qt. if your back feeding into your house remember to disconnect the main, you can KILL or injure a line worker if not.  

[WH nut 553]

 

You wont be able to run a water heater with a 2000 watt generator, most have 2 1500 watt elements.

it's propane. it has a fan-driven draft inducer, so it  has to have 110v. I haven't checked the fla, but probably 8-10amps

 

Copy that, I was thinking electric

[bean 85]

did a rough fit to see how the pulleys line up. got this old mule drive mount with the tractor. the shaft is toast, so figured it would make a good base.

Edited October 10, 2013 by bean

[Pullstart 62,772]

 

 

You wont be able to run a water heater with a 2000 watt generator, most have 2 1500 watt elements.

it's propane. it has a fan-driven draft inducer, so it  has to have 110v. I haven't checked the fla, but probably 8-10amps

 

Copy that, I was thinking electric

 

 

 

sorry to drag this on, but most electric water heaters are 2-4500 watt elements and run non-simultaneous (only one fires at a time - primary/secondary).  regardless, standard requirements would be a dedicated 30 amp 240 volt supply.

if it's a chimney vent lp or natural it will require no electricity and it would only require the 120 volt if it's powervent or auto ignition of any type.

[bean 85]

it is a powered vent (draft inducer) lp water heater. still need to check the amperage.