Steering wheel removal

[kudzu3 323]

I am starting a 1974 B 80 restoration (my first), the steering bolt is basically a big gob of rust. I have been applying penetrating oil about every day for about a week now but much rust is still there and the bolt will not turn. "If" I get the nut off, will the wheel be difficult to remove and "if" I don't get the bolt off, what would you all suggest as far as re-finishing with the wheel in place? I'm sure this subject has been covered, but cannot find it. Thanks.

[Callen 64]

Pictures would be nice to see what you're working with. Can't think of anywhere that a nut would be holding your steering wheel on.

[kudzu3 323]

Under the wheel horse emblem, holding the wheel onto the shaft. Am I missing something? Maybe I should have said bolt instead of nut, hard to tell with all the rust.

[DoctorHfuhruhurr 137]

What penetrating oil are you using?  I'm partial with PB Blaster.  

[jaebo74 7]

Maybe you could etank it ?

[Wishin4a416 2,191]

I e-tanked mine and it did the trick. Do this at your own risk tho. Some wheels might be damaged.

[rmaynard 15,718]

I have disassembled several 1974 B-80's, as well as B-100's, C-120's and 160's, and there is no nut holding the steering wheel on. The wheel has a hub with a 3/4" hole that goes over the 3/4" shaft. A 1/4" roll pin goes through the hub and the shaft. There is no nut on the top of the steering shaft. The roll pin needs to be driven out, and the steering wheel pulled off the shaft.

 

This task has proven to be one the three most difficult problems when disassembling a B/C series tractor, the other two being wheel hub removal, and hitch pin removal. And all three are as a result of rust. The B-80 steering wheel is especially difficult since it is covered with soft rubber or plastic that is easily damaged if placed in a press, of if heated.

 

Personally, I don't see how e-tanking would work since the process only works on suraface rust by transferring ions from one surface to another. The rust that you are battling is captive between two surfaces that are hidden. I may get some argument on this one, but if anyone can prove that e-tanking broke the rust free, I'd like to know just how that works.

 

In too many cases, I have had to cut the steering shaft with a sawzall and press the shaft out on a 20 ton press. A replacement steering shaft is a lot cheaper and more readily available than a good steering wheel.

 

Good luck and let us know your results.

Edited September 30, 2013 by rmaynard

[specialwheelhorse 174]

I agree 100 percent with Maynard. Save yourself a lot of hassle and cut that dude off and make a new one,

[Callen 64]

Bob, IMO, submerging it in the solution probably done the most good.

[kudzu3 323]

I appreciate the good info. I have found the pins and will attempt to remove the wheel as rmaynard has explained. I don't know what it is there for, but there is definitely a bolt head under the center hub of the steering wheel, however I will not attempt to loosen it again. Thanks all.

[kudzu3 323]

Well, I have the tractor completely apart now, and as I stand back and look, I'm wondering if it will ever get to be a tractor again  . As I said earlier, this is my first, I will definitely require support from knowing folks  .

[Horse Play 393]

I did a complete teardown on my tractor last night and the steering wheel is the only thing I couldn't get apart.  Has anyone tried a air chisel/hammer after a few days of soaking in PB Blaster?

[rmaynard 15,718]

Are you trying to get the roll pin out. or is it out and you are trying to get the wheel off the shaft?

[Horse Play 393]

I'm currently trying to get the roll pin out.  Is there also difficulty getting the wheel loose from the shaft after the pin is removed?

Edited October 5, 2013 by Horse Play

[rmaynard 15,718]

Many times, after getting the pin out, the wheel refuses to budge off the shaft.

An air hammer with the proper size pin punch should get the roll pin out. Then you can try to rotate the wheel and see if it will move at all.

[Mr. 856 170]

I just took my wheel off last night and surprisingly it came off pretty easily. I can probable thank the fact it was stored inside for at least 15 years before I came across it. Heres how I took mine apart.

 

I couldn't get the spring pin to come out until I took a drill with a bit that was approx. 1/2 the diam of the pin. I drilled down into the pin approx. 1/4" maybe alittle more. At that point I was able to get a punch to fit down into the hole I just drilled. Grabbed a big metal hammer and a few whacks later the pin was out the other side. I then took the hammer and lightly tapped off the spacer mount for the wheel. It came off after moving it up and then back down a few times. it really wasn't rusted at all. I could see how this would be tough with a seized spacer to the shaft.