detergent or non detergent oil?

[zanepetty 117]

I put 30 wt castrol in my k161. The botle says HD on it. Do you guys run regular oil or non detergent? Thanks in Advance,

Zane

[gregg'shorses 77]

Engines without filters best to use non-detergent, newer engines with filters detergent oil. But more important is an oil change, than running oil black as tar. After all I like to say " Oil is worth    $ 3- 4.00 in the bottle but $ 300.- 400 in the engine."

Edited August 15, 2013 by gregg'shorses

[zanepetty 117]

Thank you Greg.

[SousaKerry 501]

Most guys here have their favorites and the debates are endless but all will agree is that modern oil intended for cars is terrible on small engines thanks to the EPA and their ever increasing desire to rid the world of our outdated gas guzzling pollution machines. 

 

Modern Automotive oils do not have the additives needed by our older flat tappet engines to lubricate properly, namely Zink.  Myself I stick to the heavy duty diesel oils such as Shell Rotella T and T1 that still have not yet been affected by the evil EPA.

[zanepetty 117]

That's good to hear!!! My papaw always uses shell rotella in everything as well. Would you recommend that over non detergent 30 wt? Should I change after I've run the regular detergent oil for a few days?

[SousaKerry 501]

I'd think you will be fine until your next oil change in the fall.

[rydogg 186]

You are looking for an oil with a higher ZDDP (zinc dialyldithiophosphatewhich)  zinc additive that prevents wear, the epa has taken a lot of it away from the common motor oils but diesel engine oil still has it or you can use whatever oil you prefer and get a small bottle of the zinc additive but do your research and mix correctly since too much can cause more harm than good.  The best you can do for your engine is to run the correct weight and change it before it gets dirty.  Personally I use Rotella 15w40 and a small amount of Klotz Benol in my fuel for extra valve lubrication,  the lawn equipment I sell gets whatever the manufacturer suggests.

 

Weather my methods are right or wrong it is what I prefer and I have done my research to make sure I am not harming my engines, everyone has their own idea on what is the best for these old engines I have never had much concern for the detergent or non detergent I prefer detergent oil since non detergent allows the dirt or contaminants to collect within the engine and with the violent thrashing of the oil in a splash system some of the contaminants are getting picked up from the sludge anyways.  Detergent oils keep the contaminants suspended since they are filtered but in our small engines they are usually not filtered which makes it very important to do frequent oil changes to remove the contaminates that stay suspended in the oil.

[zanepetty 117]

Thanks very much. I'm interested in what everyone has said. I just want to do right with my oil.

[rydogg 186]

Clean oil is the most important....my brother and I spent a few years racing go karts on an oval dirt track we would turn a 5hp briggs engine into a modified race engine and run 7000 to 9000 rpms out of a motor that was designed to turn at 3600 rpms, we changed oil after every race due to the dusty conditions on the track and we learned a lot about using the correct oil.

[zanepetty 117]

OK. I just heard that all the contaminants in the old motor could break free if HD oil was used. I just don't know what was in it before I got it. Maybe rotella t 30 wt. Is my best bet

[zanepetty 117]

Thanks so much for the help guys

[zanepetty 117]

One more thing..what about zinc additives??

One more thing..what about zinc additives??

[Hodge71 664]

They're good stuff. But again, I would not panic and lose sleep at night pondering "OMG my oil doesn't have enough zinc in it....whats happening to my poor engine because of this....oh the agony".....         The only thing youre going to do to these engines to kill them is A). Run water instead of oil, or . run no oil in them. Other than that, keep the fuel clean hi test with some Seafoam in it, a good fuel filter and enjoy them for what they are.... It it was a Tecumseh I would say rub its belly, let it sleep in the house, dont get it wet, put a blanket on her when she sleep and then maybe it'll run for you when you need it to...  

Edited August 15, 2013 by hodge71

[KC9KAS 4,741]

Good reading for oils.........

 

MOTOR_OIL_SAE_RATING_doc.htm

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

All the classic car guys I know have been using the Rislone ZDDP additive for years...

 

http://www.barsproducts.com/catalog/view/245-3x-concentrated-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment-4405

 

http://www.amazon.com/Rislone-4405-Yellow-Supplement-Concentrate/dp/B0075559UY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1376698277&sr=1-1&keywords=rislone+4405

 

My local Advance stocks it, along with the Rotella 30W.

Edited August 17, 2013 by Jeffpicks

[RMCIII 838]

Just my  ... Pick a oil you feel is right for the application. Flush the engine out with diesel fuel. < YES< DIESLE FUEL. Dump 1/4 pint of diesel fuel into the oil chamber. Start engine and let idle for no more than 3 minutes. Drain immediately. Fill up with a low grade oil. Start engine again and let idle for 5 minutes. Drain again. Now fill with the oil you feel you want to stay with. Unless the engine has been stressed, to the max, you will be able to enjoy your GT for years to come. Oh-BTW it may smoke at start up from time to time, but will cease, unless the engine smoked before you engage in the steps above. I've had many disputes over oils. I run Royal Purple and Amsoil products. Nothing else. But my neighbor, who was a Ford certified mechanic, runs Castrol. Both of us share insights. He's dumbfounded at the lack of carbon build up around the muffler and how many hrs. I get on a tank of gas. I'm equally impressed with the overall engine decibels his produces when at full operating rpm. Both are Koehler 18's. Go figure, what are you looking to achieve? Pick an oil that you have had success with, in the past, and run with it. Everyone will give you their A$%, wait opinion. Isn't there a saying like that. Opinions are like A^&%$)(&, everyone has one...... Before everyone jumps down my throat, I am just saying, everyone likes to showcase what works for them. Each application is different. What works for one, may not work, for another. I am not saying Royal Purple and Amsoil will work for everyone. I am saying that is what I have selected to use in all my engines. It works for me. I also run hi-test fuel with each oil change to clean out the cylinder chamber. 1 tank of leaded 110 octane race fuel. I would guess that, aside from a modified engine, not many would do this. I do. With confidence because I know what my engine can take and more important, what it takes to keep it performing at it's best/. BTW, I would not try the racing fuel, unless you are the original owner or know the maintenance schedule of the previous owner. < Serious about that last statement.

[zanepetty 117]

Thanks so much guys. I'm thankful I have you all on here to answer my sometimes stupid questions. Its EXTREMELY handy. I have selected my oil and I'm sticking with it:)

[Fordiesel69 262]

Here is what to do.  Use a SAE 30w, or a 15w-40 diesel oil and rock on.

 

No flush, no cleaning, no scrubbing, no nothing.  Change every 15-25 hrs and not an hour longer.

 

Old kohlers burn oil.  And they die from people letting them burn oil and not checking / adding makeup oil. 

 

I recently had a kohler with a worn camshaft.  It was already bored over to .010, and who knows how many times the oil wasn;t changed, or how many times it was run low.  The crank was shot to the point it could not be turned another .010.

[zanepetty 117]

Wow that's awful. I don't want that to happen to mine! Thank you.

[smoreau 658]

The main thing you need to remember is these small engines have a lot of similar parts of a car engine, BUT they are not the same, No bearings on the rods, rods are aluminum, crank rides on roller bearings, no oil pump, governed to no more then 3600 rpms. and much weaker springs for the valves. Non detergent was the norm years ago, but not needed with oil technology these days for these small engines. Non detergent oil let the junk in the oil settle to the bottom of the pan. over time that can build up and unless you pull the pan you will NOT get it all out on a oil change. I have seen this first hand. Detergent oil suspends the dirt in the oil and the junk all comes out during a oil change.   as for the Zink thing, there is not enough pressure on the valves and springs to need Zink for its pressure lubing capability. Just use a good quality oil and change often!! I use Rotela strait 30hd oil and have been very happy with it. I work my tractors VERY hard and abused some of them way more then I should have! but they all run great and the oil is changed once a year or 15 hours of run time. Oil is cheep!! rebuilding a engine is not!!

[rick 233]

Ummm, I seem to have read in an owner's manual or two that the manufacturer calls for detergent oil......it's all I have ever used, and have had no problems.

Briggs engines get 10W-30 synthetic, Kohlers get 30 wt.

[zanepetty 117]

I went with Kohler oil. 30 wt

[Audioshot 2]

Rotella T 15w40 for the last two years with a cap of MMO in the fuel in my 310-8.  I change it every 10 - 15 hours and the M10 motor doesn't burn a drop with 875hrs on it.  so far, so good.

[546cowboy 301]

:deadhorse: :deadhorse:

[zanepetty 117]

I realize now there error of my ways. I'm sorry for reposting this highly controversial topic. Haha. I made my decision and I'm sticking to it:)

Edited August 31, 2013 by zanepetty