C-160 8 Speed Parking Brake not Working

[Hodge71 664]

I have been working out the kinks on my 74 C-160 and one thing that I'm having trouble with is the parking brake. PO says it never worked for the 2 years he had it and I never had an 8 speed before so I don't know how to make it work again. Any input that would prevent me from tearing things apart that I have no reason to?

 

Thanks in advance,

Edited August 4, 2013 by hodge71

[Martin 2,133]

can you post a pic or 2 of the brake setup from pedal to transmission. that would help to get started on the diagnosis......

maybe you have some adjustment problems or parts worn out missing...

 

heres a pic of the brake setup at the trans on my c125, not sure if it the same at the trans or not. my pedal is on the right so there is a shaft that goes across the frame to transfer motion from left to right......

do you have the brake pedal on the left or right?

 

 

 

[rmaynard 15,610]

Is your problem that it is not holding when engaged, or not engaging at all? I have had three B-100's (same parking brake as the C-160) over the years, and each one had a problem with the parking brake not engaging. After a little trial and error adjusting the nut on the brake lining rod, they all three worked as intended.

 

If the problem is that they are not holding when engaged, you may need a new brake lining pad.

[Don1977 604]

It's probably tightened down to the point that the engagement notches can not catch. Try loosened the nut on the brake rod until it can catch. All that does is gives peddle more travel and does not effect the braking if you have brakes now. 

[Hodge71 664]

I will get a pic and post it later guys. I can say that the problem is no engagement. I pull the lever back like it says to and nothing happens. It has awesome brakes when using the pedal to stop....and yes clutch pedal on the left brake pedal on the right when sitting in the operator seat....just like your 125 Martin 

[can whlvr 993]

bet don is on the money,the rod is over tightened and then the lever cant catch the bracket it engages to

[doc724 925]

Don1977 is exactly right.  If you have the cover plate off (where the shifter levers go thru), look on the left where the brake lever is and you can see how the ratchet mechanism works. 

[dodgemike 52]

I have a 1978 c 121 Automatic.

I need the linining for the parking

Brake band. Is there a vendor on

The forum that sells parts?

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

[stevasaurus 22,878]

RMaynard was selling the pad material, but I think he gave that to jdogustoms or Dave at Dave's Tractor world.  Send Bob a PM.

[Anglo Traction 761]

Maybe this will help you sort the issue if it's a matter of adjustment-

First easiest thing to check is the adjuster nut as mentioned by Don. This is where it's at-

 

 

Ignore the temporary, weak spring and the strange brass bit between the Brake Band and Tranny Case. 

 

If the Nut has been screwed on too far, it will prevent the Brake Lever your trying to apply from engaging with the Ratchet on the Rockshaft (inside/underneath the Gear Shifter Plate).

If it is too far, undo the Adjuster Nut until the Nylock end is flush with the end of the Rod. We'll start from there. 

 

Next, just try and engage the Lever with the Brake applied to see if it engages (on one of the Ratchet Teeth).

Underneath the Gear Shifter Plate, it look's like this- (as seen here in the Disengaged position-

 

 

And the Engaged position-

 

 

If the Brake Lever is not engaging the Ratchet properly, it may be due to wear of the Latch or Ratchet Teeth.

When I stripped this one out, it was worn, so I put a weld spot on it and filed it back to normal, as well as the Teeth/steps on the Rockshaft Arm.

The more you tighten the Adjuster Nut , the less travel (pivot movement) the Rockshaft is able to move and the Brake Lever will not reach or engage with the Ratchet Teeth.

 

Once the Lever engages, you can adjust the Nut so that the Lever engages the first or second Tooth/Step on the higher end of the Rockshaft lever (as in the last pic).

This will let the Lever engage with the next Tooth/Step as the Brake material wears down. So much less attention required in the future.

I find that when I release the Brake with the foot, I hold the lever and gently let it move to the disengaged position which stops the wear and that awful 'Rat Trap' action (I thought about putting a 'Damper' on that bit).

 

Obviously, this does not account for any Brake material or parts that may need replacing as well.   

Hope this helps. (Even though it's an old post, which I didn't notice at first)

Regards

Edited October 21, 2013 by Anglo Traction

[tarcoleo 119]

Brake material here-

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3511/=p1ea4t

 

You want the 1" x 3/16" high-strength material.  Heat to

bend and rivet lining on brake strap.  Easy to do.