Ideas / Leads on Chevy Small Block Crate Engine

[Docwheelhorse 2,660]

Hello All,

well I took my genuine 1971 Chevy Nova SS out to Friendlys with my kids. Wife was working and we needed dinner, long story short I was driving home and my 10 yr old daughter (speedfreak... this is ALL her fault  ) says---hey dad can we go FAST?  Well I get stupid and I take off in first and whack second gear. I don't know exactly when it blew but when I started slowing down I heard a whole bunch of clang bang smash bang going on. I limped her home (never lost oil pressure) but I was way down on power and making some evil noises. I was HOPING that I had broken a rocker and that the noise was a lifter/pushrod/rocker broken.  Well I get it in the garage and pull the valve covers and everythings perfect---so it has at least one and probably several broken rods.

 

I'm looking for a good solid crate engine that will be fun to drive and reliable. So---has anybody ordered a motor and been happy with what they got? If so where did you get it and what are the basic specs. I was looking at he 290 hp GM crate engine but upon doing a bunch of research it seems that GM is very enthusiastic on the HP. One guy said he installed it in his Camaro and hooked up all the accessories and an iron manifold dual exhaust setup and only pulled down roughly 150 hp at the rear wheels!  That's just not enough for me..... 

 

I didn't build the motor that blew and it wasn't really fast---ask Sparky. It was supposidely a .030 over 400 small block with iron heads, iron intake and quadrajet with iron dual exhaust . Trani is a Muncie 4 speed with 3.55 12 bolt posi rear.

 

I welcome anybodys thoughts

 

Tony

[RMCIII 838]

Never really liked crate engines for the simple statement you mentioned regarding your friend. You never can tell what you are going to get. Regardless of what they say and what the mfg. states, when you dabble into that stuff, it's best to look outside the crate engines that GM, Dodge, Ford make. Try Jegs or Summit. If you were looking for a Ford, I would recommend GAS in CA> They actually have several Roush engines to choose from. But, if you really want to know what you are getting, look for a 400 small block, 4 bolt main and build it with a friend.

[AMC RULES 37,127]

http://store.edelbrock.com/crateengines.aspx

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,264]

Sorry this happened to you Tony.  With SB Chevy's there's a lot of crate engines available.  I don't know about your car, but is it the original engine?   If you're right, you likely broke a rod and driving it certainly didn't do it any good.  If it were me, I'd find a really good respectable machine shop, yank the engine out pull the pan and see how bad it looks.  If it looks okay, send it to the shop and have it checked to insure it's straight.  Get a new crank, HP rods, pistons and oil pump a go-fast cam and put it back together.  You'll save quite a bit and know that it's put together properly.

[Docwheelhorse 2,660]

HI Everyone and thanks for the replies,

the engine I tore up is not the original (Its sitting in boxes in my garage, block was machined and the rest is a dis-assembled not machined mess) , I'm all done with 400 small blocks (the engine that blew) I have never read anything good about them and what it takes to get respectable power out of them. If I end up building an engine it would be the original 350 with a stroker 383 kit. But at this point im more interested in spending a few bucks and ordering a drop in engine with a warranty and being done with it.

 

I shouldn't of been beating on a 42 year old classic and am pissed I wrecked the motor. maybe it was junk from the start but at least I could drive the car. Now all I hae is a broken mess sitting in the garage.

 

Interesting  on the Edelbrock website--there are NO small block crate engines (????) Big Block Chevy, Small Block Ford no Chrysler at all. How odd is that.

 

Tony

[zieg72 209]

If it was me I would go BB.  A nice RV type cam with low end torque.  They are a hoot in a light weight Nova.

[AMC RULES 37,127]

Maybe start with a call to Edelbrock to pick their brains Tony. 

 

You either need a friend who builds engines, who is local, and will stand behind his work...

or a nationally recognized manufacturer that includes a warranty. 

FWIW, I too like your 383 stroker idea...good luck, keep us posted.        

[RMCIII 838]

Tony - whatever you decide, I would recommend using Eddie Gartlits for the head work. He Guarantees his products. He still is used for some of the "door slammers" on the track. I can dig up his info if/when you get that far. He did mine for a 73 - Pro Street Camaro I built. Heads were rated to withstand/develop 800hp....Never used that much, but he builds in tolerance to ensure nothing is going to happen in that area of the engine. BTW - yes he is also Don Gartlits little nephew.

 

Forgot to mention - He is a Ford Man, but occasionally works on a Bow Tie.... LOL

Edited August 4, 2013 by RMCIII

[Ken B 3,164]

Good luck with it Tony...  Keep it small block. Keep it simple.  I never had a crate engine in my Chevelle but I know a few guys that had motors from Summit that were pretty nice screamers.  It doesn't sound like you beat your car on a regular basis, something probably was loose downstairs anyways. While I was building the big block for my 69 Chevelle I threw a warmed over 400 small block in for the summer. I beat the living snot out of that 400 and it never gave in. When I finally put the big block in I blew something apart, the rear end! (Auburn gear set) One too many power shifts, but man what a rush. I had an M22 4 speed that was worked over for powershifting, (keepin it nailed when shiftin) rev limiter set at 6800 and 4.11 gears in the 12 bolt rear. I took great care of my Chevelle but I enjoyed giving it a good romp every now and then.

[shorts 182]

If you want a torque monster go with a 400 .030 over small block with a hi performance hydraulic cam and retard the cam timing to bring the torque on early and max out at around 5,00 rpm, use factory 5.700 rods and pistons with the pin holes moved up, you can still use a reliable ring package and keep the compression ratio compatable with pump gas. by keeping the rpm's down you can use a 2 bolt block that in my opinion is stronger and also a stock cast iron intake with a q-jet and a stock HEI distributor that has about 28* of mechanical/centrifical advance, it doesn't hurt to use roller rockers and a stud stabilizer kit for reliability, but again in my opinion stock pushrods are an inexpensive way to protect the engine from high rpm valve train failures

[Coadster32 793]

I think you can get a 350sb chevy all bored and stoked out to 383 from a crate design. I have one in my 79 camaro...(not a crate though).  Puts out alot of ponies, but still nice and reliable.