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plowmaster

uh oh....governer

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plowmaster

i went to adjust my governer and the little rod that moves the lever from the engine spun all the way around, and if my ears werent deceiving me, i could hear a little something drop in the engine.

was that the pin that controlls the governer rod? if so, why was i able to hear it drop? does it not drop into the base? is it safe to run my engine without dissasembly?

thanks!

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plowmaster

p.s.

i followed all the procedures as per this thread;

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3912

when i went to spin the pin all the way back is when i heard a little tink in the engine, and spinning it back further required no greater resistance than before i heard the little "tink"

boy im really hoping not to tear this engine down.

thanks again.

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big mike

If it's a Kohler and the rod your talking about goes through the brass nut and inside the block I have bad news.On that rod is a finger and that finger pushes against the button on the governor gear.If that finger broke off you have to pull the motor all the way down to the gear out and replace/repair the governor shaft.

There is a small freeze plug in the block that i have taken out(drill a hole in it and use a sheetmetal screw) before to inspect the gear/shaft.

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TT

Here's a picture of what you're dealing with:

K4.jpg

The tabs are famous for breaking off, and Big Mike is correct. The engine will need pulled and the oil pan will need to come off for replacement. Most guys will tell you that you have to pull the crank and cam to access the governor shaft, but I just did one less than two weeks ago and left all the internals in place. (a telescopic magnet will be your best friend! B) )

Although the engine will run without the tab (as long as it fell in to the oil pan and stays out of the way) the governor will no longer function. This could potentially result in total engine failure or an exploding flywheel. (not to mention a rather powerless and unpredictable engine with a mind of it's own)

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big mike

TT,you must have a big S on your shirt or have the patience of a saint to do that with it all together B) .

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plowmaster

thanks for the great news.. B)

i think ill try to find a replacement motor while i dissasemble this one. TT, whats the average time to pull the motor and repair? were full bore into haying right now, so hopefully this dry weather will killl my lawn off and buy me some time. or we can hope for an early frost.

thanks again

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TT

If you use some air tools and have a helper, you can possibly do it in under 4 hours.

Make sure you have one of those "oops I dropped a bolt down in a place I can't reach" skinny telescopic magnets, and a second skinny magnet would be handy to "pull" the end of the governor shaft out through the hole in the block. (where the brass "bushing" is located)

Naturally, you'll also need a new oil pan gasket and governor shaft.

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abrown0920

Here's a picture of what you're dealing with:

K4.jpg

The tabs are famous for breaking off, and Big Mike is correct. The engine will need pulled and the oil pan will need to come off for replacement. Most guys will tell you that you have to pull the crank and cam to access the governor shaft, but I just did one less than two weeks ago and left all the internals in place. (a telescopic magnet will be your best friend! B) )

Although the engine will run without the tab (as long as it fell in to the oil pan and stays out of the way) the governor will no longer function. This could potentially result in total engine failure or an exploding flywheel. (not to mention a rather powerless and unpredictable engine with a mind of it's own)

Is the other piece in there the space that stops the threaded bushing from being overtightened?

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TT

No. The big block brass nut/bushing gets tightened against the block. There is nothing between the bushing and the block on the 10/12/14/16&18hp singles.

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big mike

TT,I think he is referring to the spacer tha goes on the shaft between the finger and the bushing the hold the shaft in place.

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TT

He is, but he has a K-161 that's missing the control cable bracket.

The big block brass "nut/bushing" tightens against the block and the K series small block brass "nut/bushing" tightens against the control cable bracket.

The spacer in the above picture only keeps the governor shaft from pulling out of the block on the opposite end . The brass "nut/bushing" doesn't tighten against it. (if it did, the governor shaft wouldn't be able to move.)

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plowmaster

now im confused, i thought i had a k-301

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abrown0920

Sorry Plowmaster I kind of jumped in on your thread.

I was refering to part (H) on the picture below. It doesn't go where I though it did though. Kind of generic parts list from kohler and obviously not specific to our engine spec. exactly.

governor-parts.png

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TT

now im confused, i thought i had a k-301

You do have a K-301.

"abrown0920" has a K-161 7hp and needs the piece marked "R1" in the drawing he just posted. ("R2" would also work, but is NLA)

Without that piece installed behind the control disc, the brass bushing will screw too far in to the engine block forcing the spacer "H" into the shoulder on the governor shaft "N", causing it to bind up and not turn freely. (thus rendering the governor non-functional)

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plowmaster

thanks, thats kind of an exploded view.

so.......that little bag in the picture is in the mail, right? B)

actually, wheres the best place to find parts for these motors? is it something i can pick up at a local hardware store or is there a specialty place with o.e.m. parts that i will need to order from?

thanks again for all the help, like to get these parts out on a bench, along with a good repair manual, and spend some rainy day with some cold ones tearing down this little motor. is there anything else i should do while im in there?

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TT

That bag in the picture is actually from an online parts store.

If you have a local Kohler dealer, they can get you the parts you need. The P/N for the shaft is A-235256-S, and the oil pan gasket is P/N 235057-S.

If the engine was running fine before the governor broke, I wouldn't mess with it. Whether you choose do do anything more to it is entirely up to you. (I firmly believe in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule. B) )

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