MalMac 1,331 #1 Posted July 2, 2013 Trying to remove the ball joints on the lower steering shaft. Can't get them to budge. I have never done a 520 before. I can not get them to budge. They do not look like they are a taper press fit like on a auto motive use. Don't think I have to use a ball joint tool on them. Anybody change them out before that can shine some light on this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #2 Posted July 2, 2013 Problem solved, just stuck used BFH. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
546cowboy 301 #3 Posted July 2, 2013 That would have been my suggestion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,943 #4 Posted July 2, 2013 That would be a Blacksmith's Favorite Hammer , right?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #5 Posted July 2, 2013 That would be a Blacksmith's Favorite Hammer , right?? Lane, I don't think so................ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #6 Posted July 3, 2013 That would be a Blacksmith's Favorite Hammer , right?? Or something like that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chdinct 28 #7 Posted April 29, 2014 Hey, thread's a little stale, but I'm having the same issue. Looked up the part on Toro.com to get a look see at how it's installed. They refer to it as a tie-rod end, but same function as a ball joint. Anyway, one of mine won't take grease. Changed the zerk but that's not the issue. Then I tried one of those grease joint rejuvenators to no avail. So, my next thought was to take the joint apart and see if I can clean out the old, hardened grease. Took the castle nut off easy enough, but I can't get the ball joint/tie rod end to pop out. With only 6"-8" of room between the bottom of the joint and the ground, I really can't get a good swing at it with a BFH. Shouldn't this part come out easily? Feel like I'm missing something. Any special technique to getting it out? Don't have one of those ball joint tools, but I'm not sure it would fit on this part even if I had one. Referring to part 39 in this diagram, except it's on the other side of the tractor. Any help appreciated. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,645 #8 Posted April 29, 2014 The tool is called a pickle fork. You drive it between the ball joint and the spindle. You might be able to get one on loan from an auto parts store. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chdinct 28 #9 Posted April 29, 2014 The tool is called a pickle fork. You drive it between the ball joint and the spindle. You might be able to get one on loan from an auto parts store. For $10, I'll probably pick one up since I have to take back the grease joint rejuvenator I bought at HF anyway. The rejuvenator is on closeout from HF and now I know why - dosen't work. Ha. Thanks for the suggestion. Any others? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #10 Posted April 29, 2014 The ball joints on the 520 are a straight shaft and not tapered like automotive. They should with a good smack come out. . If smacking the ball joint does not knock it out. You may have one that has been allowed to come loose and wore a grove in it and now has a lip hung up on the spindle. Be careful you may end up messing up the spindle. I myself used a 2x4 on top of the ball joint then smacked it hard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #11 Posted April 29, 2014 A pickle fork will probably destroy the rubber boot and possibly the ball & socket also, the tapered shaft and lever arm that it fits In are pulled up tight and holding as designed, to disassemble without damaging the parts you need to momentarily distort the tapered hole, back up one side of the lever with a bfh and then hit the opposite side with another hammer and the tapered pin should fall out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chdinct 28 #12 Posted May 7, 2014 Update. Got the ball joint out finally. I ended up buying a ball joint removal tool from Harbor Freight when I returned the grease zerk rejuvenator, which didn't work. The tool is not the one pfrederi pictured above. It's the version that clamps underneath the joint and then you screw down the forks against the clamp (easier to post a link than describe - http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html). So, I spent some time the last few days trying to clean out the old grease by turning it over and putting carb cleaner into the joint, letting it sit awhile, then manually rotating in in all directions. There's definitely some additional friction in one direction vs all others. Anyway, repeated this several times, then put the zerk back and tried to grease it. No go, still won't take grease. At this point, I'm looking for a replacement. Here's my question: Did the D series use the same ball joints/tie rod ends as the 520s? Looking at pics on ebay, there are several D series ball joints for sale that look exactly like the one on my 520H, but the part numbers are different so I haven't pulled the trigger. There's a new 520 ball joint for sale, but the price with shipping is what I'd pay from a local dealer, so passing on that. Thanks for any help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,645 #13 Posted May 7, 2014 First are we talking about the heavy 1" spindles?? I have a NOS 520 1" front spindle. There is no doubt the hole for the ball joint is tapered (1/2" top 15/32" bottom). The only cross over between 2 of my hobbies I have ever found is the ball joint for my d200 and one from my M274 mule. I checked the 520 heavy front spindle with a spare Mule tie rod...the shaft fits I cannot answer as to length and tread sized. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #14 Posted May 7, 2014 I stand corrected, I said the 520 ball joins were not tapered. Upon further inspection I was working on mine the other day and did notice a small taper it's very slight but it's there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #15 Posted May 8, 2014 For reference, take a peek-a-boo here: http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=Toro+Consumer&mn=41-20O801 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
