753 Steering Problems

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,507]

I picked up my 753, see this thread.

The steering gave way as I was moving into my truck bed. The consensus in the thread above was the roll pin. I crawled underneath it today and do agree it has to be the roll pin. I see the pin, but my question how do I get to it? Is there a secret for replacing it? With it between the frame and it being horizontal, there doesn't seem to be room to pull out the old one (or in this case driving out the old one since it's broke inside the rod). I see both ends, but I not sure what to remove so I can get to it and drive the old one out and put in the new one. So from the steering experts. B)

[kj4kicks 152]

Can you turn the wheels so it's not parallel to the frame?

Of course, I'm no RH guy, so I'm just tossin' that out there.... B)

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,507]

Eldon,

I'm not a RH type guy, either, but then, I'm no tractor type of guy period. The location of that roll pin makes it difficult, I would think, to get to and replaced. It's toward the front, just behind and above the front axle and between the frame with looks to be less than an inch between the each end of the roll pin and the frame. I don't have a lift so I got the front wheels up on ramps so I can crawl underneath it. And from that vantage point I don't see how to get to it or if the end cap that the steering arm goes into can be removed or not. So I'm stumped or just plain :imstupid: or both. I'm open to all suggestions I guess. B)

[linen beige 14]

From looking at the IPL on Parts tree, and comparing that to my 704, it looks like you should be able to remove the steering support (bolted to the frame at the rear of the lower shaft, below the upper shaft, where the "fan" gear is. Right behind the battery box.) and slide the lower steering shaft back and right out. You will also have to detatch the tie rods from the lower shaft, but I would just unbolt them from the spindle arms. That would let you get to the roll pin pretty easily. If you don't have a shop press and can't drive it out, heat it up enough to take the temper out of the pin and it will drill out. Hope this helps.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,507]

Jim,

It does help, as I was thinking that also. But, Eldon, might be onto something also. If I turn the front wheels all the way to one side, that should place the roll pin vertically and maybe I can drive it out then.

[linen beige 14]

Just me, but I think it would be easier to unbolt a couple things and get the shaft where I could work on that pin without lying on the ground. It also would eliminate the possibility of bending or breaking something else. B)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

The LSS won't come out of a '63 without taking stuff apart. The footrest support rod crosses below it and the battery box is welded to the frame above it.

T-MO..... may I suggest standing your new 753 up on end and working from the bottom? B)

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,507]

So, TT, is Eldon right by turning the front wheels all the way to one side? That way it will move the roll pin to where it's vertical and then just drive it out. Hmm, I actually thought of standing it up on it's hind quarters. B)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

That is correct, Terry. Turning it completely to one side should allow you to access the roll pin from between the frame rails. You might also need to unbolt the lower steering support from the frame to gain a little more room. (remove the 4 bolts holding the gas tank to the hoodstand so the upper shaft will pull up out of the way.)

[Buzz 502]

Jim,

It does help, as I was thinking that also. But, Eldon, might be onto something also. If I turn the front wheels all the way to one side, that should place the roll pin vertically and maybe I can drive it out then.

Now keep in mind that if the roll pin broke, the holes in the gear and the hole in the shaft are probably not lined up. All you will be doing is trying to beat part of the pin into the shaft. Your best bet is to pull the entire piece off. Mark the gear and the shaft, put the gear in a vise and try to turn the shaft to see if the marks go out of alignment. If they don't, that might not be your problem. If they do, you'll probably have to have the gear pressed off.

[oldandred 15]

Hummmmm I find it strange that the drive pin broke them things are harder than any thing I know of.If its as you say best to take the rod and fan out I still dont think the pin broke but any thing could happen. B)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

It's the lower steering link (P/N 1900 - the piece on the front of the lower steering shaft where the tie rods bolt) and I've seen anything from a sheared roll pin to a completely broken part. (and quite a few that were nickeled fast to the steering rod.

)

[linen beige 14]

The LSS won't come out of a '63 without taking stuff apart. The footrest support rod crosses below it and the battery box is welded to the frame above it.

T-MO..... may I suggest standing your new 753 up on end and working from the bottom?

I was looking at my 704. No battery box to get in the way. Guess I should have looked at my 702, then it would have been obvious how much harder that shaft is to take out. Good save TT.

But, you still may be able to at least drop it out of it's front hole so that the pin is a little easier to get to? Might give you a couple inches of wiggle room.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

The good thing about your 704 is that the front steering link is 1/4" plate steel and was welded to the LSS from the factory. This was made possible by the use of the bolt-in battery box starting in 1964. (also a good way to tell the year of a round hood.)

Sometimes unbolting the lower steering support and sliding the assembly back so the front will drop down isn't good. (The LSS likes to bounce around when trying to remove/install the roll pin.)