meadowfield 2,570 #51 Posted February 3, 2014 (edited) Tom, I'll let Richard answer with the accurate answer In the meantime, You'll cover 90% of a horse, with 3/8, 5/16 and 1/4 UNC hardware. Tranny and big bolts mainly 1" x 3/8, bodywork/engine cowl 3/4 x 5/16 and bits like engine grass screen 1/4" x 1/2". There's a few 3/8 UNF on things like the steering rod ends. Depending on whether they are visual, you may choose to use nice stainless button heads. Otherwise, good old bzp work just fine Note you can largely substitute bsw for unc as the only difference is a few degrees in thread angle, pitch is the same for both. I often use a bsw tap/do to clean threads.... Btw look up my sons c121 restore last year if you want to see the agriline paint! His user name is C121uk I think. Edited February 3, 2014 by meadowfield Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom. 70 #52 Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) Hi Mark, Thank you very much for the information on the hardware sizes, I will have to do an order soon after I work out what I will need. As you said I will most likely go for stainless heads where you can see them and bzp in the less visual places. I have just had a re-read of his thread and wow what a great job! I would be happy if mine turned out half as good as that! My paint should arrive today so hopefully this weekend I can start to prime. Tom Edited February 5, 2014 by Tom. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 761 #53 Posted February 5, 2014 Hi Tom, As Mark says about the hardware and the use of old Whitworth Taps to clean UNC threads (except the 1/2" UNC size has 13TPI as opposed to 12 Threads Per Inch on 1/2" Whitworth) . Not sure if you've sorted all the Manuals for your Tractor, this is the one you want, it also has all the bolts sizes and type appropriate to their location. If you want UNC bolts of most types , then you will likely find all you need from these Guys- http://www.namrick.co.uk/ They even have the High Tensile Bolts that will replace your cylinder Head Bolts. If you want to use Stainless Bolts, Nuts and Spring Washers, then you may find all you need on the Bay of EEEEs (got mine from several sellers). Ok, yes a little more effort to clean the Tranny manually, but it will be safer. I did it that way. As for stripping out the Engine, Yes, take it all out and give them just the Block. The reason is that they should steam clean the inside (and outside) to remove all the Honing Grit and Coolant Oil from the processes. The only exception to this is that I left the Main Ball Bearing in the Case, but I sealed it off really well and was not affected at all. If you want to know how I did it , just send me a PM (it was also the first time I had an Engine re-bored and then fully rebuilt it). I think I said how much it cost me to have a k301 re-bored 0.020" and a -0.010 Crank re-grind, but it was well worth it. You will also have the chance to inspect all the component parts removed to ensure they are within specification wear limits. Impressed with the way you are going about this project and not cutting any corners, it will reward you with good reliability and longevity when you've finished. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom. 70 #54 Posted February 5, 2014 Hi Tom, As Mark says about the hardware and the use of old Whitworth Taps to clean UNC threads (except the 1/2" UNC size has 13TPI as opposed to 12 Threads Per Inch on 1/2" Whitworth) . Not sure if you've sorted all the Manuals for your Tractor, this is the one you want, it also has all the bolts sizes and type appropriate to their location. If you want UNC bolts of most types , then you will likely find all you need from these Guys- http://www.namrick.co.uk/ They even have the High Tensile Bolts that will replace your cylinder Head Bolts. If you want to use Stainless Bolts, Nuts and Spring Washers, then you may find all you need on the Bay of EEEEs (got mine from several sellers). Ok, yes a little more effort to clean the Tranny manually, but it will be safer. I did it that way. As for stripping out the Engine, Yes, take it all out and give them just the Block. The reason is that they should steam clean the inside (and outside) to remove all the Honing Grit and Coolant Oil from the processes. The only exception to this is that I left the Main Ball Bearing in the Case, but I sealed it off really well and was not affected at all. If you want to know how I did it , just send me a PM (it was also the first time I had an Engine re-bored and then fully rebuilt it). I think I said how much it cost me to have a k301 re-bored 0.020" and a -0.010 Crank re-grind, but it was well worth it. You will also have the chance to inspect all the component parts removed to ensure they are within specification wear limits. Impressed with the way you are going about this project and not cutting any corners, it will reward you with good reliability and longevity when you've finished. Hi Richard, Thanks very much for the link, that is very hepful because as you say it states all of the hardware sizes which is just what I need so I don't over or under order the amount of bolts. I will check out that website and the bay. I may have to order them soon as my paint arrived today so I will hopefully start priming this weekend. I have actually been in contact with the machine shop tonight and hard a little chat with them about the process of re-boring. They gave me a rough price which I thought was reasonable enough and said that I need to take the engine their first so they can't make sure 0.010" is enough or not. I'm hoping it is because there is a +0.010" genuine set on ebay at a good price, if not I'm not sure what i'll do. I may end up having to order from overseas but I am going to order geniune kohler parts regardless. I also asked about removing the insides but they said that they could tape and cover up the insides and then clean it out, I will ask and speak to them about it again when I take the engine to them though. Thank you Richard, it's the first time I've ever done a restoration on something and with this horse being so uncommon over here I thought I would go all out on it. I am considering thinning my herd out also because of work and school getting in the way, of course keeping this one and probably one of the c series. We will see though, for now I'm sticking with this and aiming to get it finished so I can enjoy it. Tom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026 #55 Posted February 5, 2014 Tom A hardware list does exist but it is real hard to impossible to use it. I created a searchable database in the Yahoo Manuals Groups with 4,524 records. I was able to identify most all hardware through superseded part numbers. If you post a list of the part numbers you need I will try to pull them up. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom. 70 #56 Posted February 7, 2014 Hi Garry, Thanks for the help, the manual that Richard linked me too has most if not all of the hardware sizes on it, however if I do need help on any I will let you know. UPDATE: Only a small update however this weekend I should make some progress. I am going to split the tranny tomorrow and check it over, if all is as it should be I will strip it down and maybe get it primed, I will also get a few other parts primed I hope. I have also been in further contact with the machine shop and I am taking the engine there on Monday so they can me measure it for me and we can decide what size it needs to be re-bored too, I will then order the piston and piston ring set so they can re-bore the engine. Hopefully in the next update we will see some parts primed! Tom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 574 #57 Posted February 7, 2014 Tom, you're impressing a lot of us with the work and research you're undertaking with this project. Each step has it's own rewards that outweigh the fast track to completing it as soon as possible and cutting corners. Each job well done is something to be proud of. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom. 70 #58 Posted February 11, 2014 Hi Andy, Thank you very much, I'm slowly making progress although I really want to get painting but at the moment the cold weather is stopping me. I may have to dig out the electric heater and get the workshop as warm as possible and then paint, I would wait but I can't see this cold weather leaving us anytime soon. I have a week off of school next week so hopefully I can make some serious progress then, I will keep you all updated. Tom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil 2,409 #59 Posted February 12, 2014 Tom , dont leave that Electric heater running for too long it will cost a fortune in electricity bills , best thing to do if you can onece sprayed is ask mum if you can hang the parts in the lounge until they dry . good luck with the painting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom. 70 #60 Posted February 12, 2014 Hi Neil, Yes that is the only downside to it, I will ask her but I'm pretty sure I can guess what the answer will be !! If not I will paint in the outhouse which is heated so gets quite warm in there. Hopefully I can get painting this weekend! Tom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jparkes43 329 #61 Posted February 13, 2014 Hi Andy, Thank you very much, I'm slowly making progress although I really want to get painting but at the moment the cold weather is stopping me. I may have to dig out the electric heater and get the workshop as warm as possible and then paint, I would wait but I can't see this cold weather leaving us anytime soon. I have a week off of school next week so hopefully I can make some serious progress then, I will keep you all updated. Tom My plans too off school and spend it working on the tractor!! James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom. 70 #62 Posted February 16, 2014 Slowly making progress... Tom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom. 70 #63 Posted February 21, 2014 More progress... Tom 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #64 Posted February 21, 2014 (edited) Lovely job, you need to turn your iphone from Aussie mode to UK mode :p Edited February 21, 2014 by meadowfield 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom. 70 #65 Posted February 25, 2014 Hi all, Things are slowing up a bit but we are progressing. Well I say progressing I'm taking a few steps back at the minute because some of the parts have not come out as I would have liked them too, not sure I was using enough primer on the parts. I'm going to reblast the stuff I'm not happy with and start again. It is my first time spraying and it is by no means easy however I am determined to do it all myself, so far I have done all the spraying without any help from my dad, the end result may not be perfect but atleast I can say that I did it and atleast it will preserve the wheel horse I suppose! Hopefully I will have a picture update for you all soon! Tom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #66 Posted March 4, 2014 Hey Tom, there's a lot to be said for doing all the work yourself.. It's something to be proud of Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
