should the 418-A (1987) have a 4 prong or 3 prong solenoid?

[WH nut 553]

Must have her fixed?

[dsholler 54]

Must have her fixed?

She is out mowing the lawn. (I want to know as well just out of curiosity...maybe we need to start some RedSquare bookmaking.... odds on the wrong keyswitch? wired the wrong way? )

[valeri 0]

Not fixed yet... I've been busy... It's just sitting in the garage til July when things slow down around here. Have read all your responses and have double checked wiring, and so far it's a mystery. Hubby is going to spend some time on it next week, and I'll let you know how it goes. My aunt just passed away this morning, so visitation/funeral, Sunday and Monday, and my sons graduation party on Saturday, then have to pack for out of town trip which is next fri-sun, and have to help with a garage sale the following weekend.. Busy busy.... Thanks again, and I will definitely keep you posted when we get some time to work on it

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,119]

 

I may have gotten there before chuck, but I realized I said the wrong thing. I said negative side when I meant starter side. In looking at the wiring diagram I cannot figure how it could run when you jump the starter, but not when you use the key. My original idea that the repair guy had swapped the wire to the fuse does not fit, because then it should not run at all .

.

 

 

 

Dan, yes

 

that was the special set of circumstances I mentioned in the post. I was trying to remember the situation we ran into months back.I believe the symptoms were the engine would run when the operator was jumping the two posts on the starter relay but the engine would die when the jumper was removed. In addition I think the engine was K coil based and not a magnum.

 

In Val's case, it is now certain we are dealing with a magneto based engine. Once the engine is started, the only way to kill it is run out of gas or ground the magneto kill wire. By logic, we have confirmed the power lead to the ignition switch must be correct to be able to power the ignition switch to power the starter solenoid. .

 

We now have the question "what's happening at the magneto kill wire?"

 

Chances are we may have incorrect wiring or an incorrect / defective ignition switch grounding out the mag kill wire when the ignition switch is released back to the RUN position.It is also possible for the wiring bundle from the back of the ignition switch to be pressing up against a piece of metal from the tractor chassis. A hole worn thru the insulation of the kill wire could be grounding to the steering column or other chassis parts. Being the engine does start, it would have to be a intermittent short to a grounded chassis part.

 

Val, if you don't have expertise with a multimeter, we can either help you develop enough expertise to troubleshoot this issue or you can go the route of assuming the ignition switch is defective and replace it (not a costly guess - about $20).

 

You will need part # 109931

 

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=toro_consumer&mn=31-18KE01%2C+418-A+Garden+Tractor%2C+1987&dn=810480R1-80R10042-00020

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-IGNITION-KEY-STARTER-SWITCH-KOHLER-Many-Models-25-099-02-25-099-04S-/161018287782?hash=item257d7016a6&vxp=mtr

 

p.s I believe the 3 vs 4 terminal starter relay question can be put to rest. The starter relay is functioning as it should.

 

There is a typo here - the switch part number is 103991. Just make sure the switch used has one terminal identified with the letter M.

 

Garry

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Thanks Gary.

 

I have to stop posting at 3 in the morning wacked out on sinus medication!