orange peel look ???

[zipper 10]

Ok guys, I am totaly depressed. painted the hood & rear pan, looks great from a distance BUT up close it looks like a RED ORANGE.

What did I do wrong???

Ya, I know I got to sand her down. But what caused it ???

Zipper

Ps I am ashame to take a pic. But if I need to I will. Crying in my beer.

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,363]

need a pic

[Shuboxlover 479]

Kelly will have ALL the answers, I bet he could paint better than most with his eyes closed and in the dark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[.5racer 14]

did you prime? ,without pics ,cant be sure.....If you were painting blue, would it be a blue-green peel ? Pics will have a lot of answers!!!!!

[Butch 194]

Orange peel is normal. All new cars have it. Custom cars that don't have it had it buffed out. There are gonna be a lot of reasons for it. But those who paint for a living get it.

[Don1977 604]

If you have enough paint on there you can wet sand lightly with 1200 grit water paper and the polish with polishing compound. The paint has to be completely dry before you try this. If it's that bad you have nothing to lose as it will have to be sanded down before you repaint anyway.

[AMC RULES 37,141]

[Kelly 1,030]

Need more info, what kind of paint, how did you mix it, what temp was it when sprayed, how many coats, pics and info will help, depending on what the paint is you can wet sand a polish. 

[VinsRJ 723]

Use the al-mighty wet sanding technique and a buff... You can even wet sand and buff rattle can crap... bye-bye orange peal.

[zipper 10]

Well, here the pic's I didn't want to take, but you guys wanted them.

Yes it is from a rattle can, Rustolium Reagel Red and she was primed and sanded and whiped with denatured alcohol.

68 degrees and low humidty.

[rmaynard 15,718]

I don't use rattle cans on my tractors, but if I did I would make sure that the item being painted and the paint were the same temperature. In other words, don't put 70 degree paint on an object that is sitting in the sun and has risen to a higher temperature. The paint needs time to "lay down". If the object being painted is warmer than the paint, the paint will dry too quickly and never smooth out.

 

Next, be sure that the paint is applied in multiple thin coats, as opposed to one heavy coat.

 

Lastly, I never use denatured alcohol as a cleaner. It is designed as a fuel, and as such has additives that leave a residue. 99% isopropyl alcohol leaves non. My final cleaner before painting is mild soap and water with a good rinse.

[Kelly 1,030]

  Not seeing it in person, that looks like what is called fish eye, the surface had something on it, like a oil of some kind, I use a wax a grease remover made for paint prep, about $13 a gal. at most auto parts stores, from here it looks like time to start over. did your first coat go on with little spots that the paint did not stick to? little tiny dots all over?? 

[AMC RULES 37,141]

Contaminates on the surface caused your fisheye problem...try again using the proper cleaner.   

[KC9KAS 4,741]

Not to steal the thread, but once a friend painted a VW Beetle. It was totally orange peel, and the color was Orange! I thought it looked great, but the owner wanted it fixed!

[Kelly 1,030]

Yup something like Craig posted, I use the cheaper house brand but pretty much the same stuff. 

[squonk 41,632]

I'm surprised Craig had room in the garage for that can with all those tractors stuffed in there!

[zipper 10]

A BIG THANKS, to all who responded.

 

And AMC thank for the info and pic.

 

Your members name reminds me of my Dad's 196x AMC Rambler Rebel, just loved those drop down seats. I was in high scholl then, sure brought a smile to my face.

 

Now to p/u some DX330 and start wet sanding.

 

thanks again.

 

Zipper

[AMC RULES 37,141]

No, don't thank me...Kelly is the man.    

[JimmyJam 542]

Yes, I agree; there was some residue and or temperature factor that caused the paint to "fish-eye". Re-sand and apply multiple thinner coats opposed to 1 heavy coat, but maintaining a wet edge in a consistent "lay-on" fashion BUT NOT in direct sun!!!!.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

compare your defect with the results shown here

 

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/s/trouble/PDSG_Home.html

 

http://www.aerospaceonline.com/doc/Improved-paint-durability-on-Boeing-commercia-0001

 

 

 

orange peel and a really bad case of fisheye may look similar - usually fish eye is seen in just a few small spots over a project where as orange peel is a function of improper gun / paint performance. True fisheye is improper surface prep and usually results in "craters" in the paint. The bottom of these craters usually show the surface you sprayed on. Wet sanding would have to be done almost down to the surface to remove a true fish eye defect. Orange peel can be corrected by wet sand whereas the paint near a fish eye usually has to be taken down to the surface and feather edged into the remainder of the paint job.

 

 

My own experience with true fish eye vs true orange peel suggests a cross section of the defects would look something like the diagram below. The yellow contaminant will usually "push away" the top coat and refuses to meld with it. The result is a true crater or fish eye vs a rough orange peel surface. 

[Fordiesel69 263]

I find that the cheapo harbor freight guns will work ok, at least enought to wet sand down to a nice finish. Rattle cans will not have a good flat finish like the gains ca produce.

[546cowboy 301]

The reason I don't use rattle cans is simple, you have no control over your spray pattern. They are prone to start spitting paint rather than spraying and paint builds up around the opening and will invariably drip right in the middle of the panel you're painting. To say the con's outweigh the pro's is a gross understatement. Go to Harbor Freight and buy a detail gun for $12.99 and take an hour to practice spraying with it.

 

I have been using those "Cheapo" Harbor Freight guns for years with great results. Of course you can spend hundreds of dollars on guns that don't do any better. Just don't leave paint in any gun for extended periods of time and thoroughly clean it when done.

Edited May 23, 2013 by 546cowboy

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

If you believe your surface is contaminated, there is a little process you can perform to see how effective your cleaning routine actually is.

 

I used to instruct service reps on cleaning optics for high powered automated microscopes. Optical clarity (cleanliness) was extremely important.

 

Try spraying a little PAM non stick cooking spray on a glass window pane. Then try to clean it. If you can get the window pane clean without streaks or any residue visible with strong light showing thru the pane, use those same techniques on your tractor parts. You won't have any worries with surface contaminates playing a role in ruining your spray job.

 

It has been said that denatured alcohol doesn't make a good surface cleaner. I would dispute that statement as we used methanol alcohol as our "final wipe" of any front surface mirrors or critical glass optical components. Denaturing only adds additional solvents to the methanol to make it unpleasant to drink. Usually denaturing is done with adding Acetone or MEK. Nasty stuff but none the less excellent cleaners in their own right.

[zipper 10]

Old Iron,

I used the denatured alcohol on all the other parts i have panted and no problem, maybe I used the rag for something else prior to whipping down the hood and pan, maybe to many Millers ?

 

I used it because thats what I was told to use when we built our house 40 some yrs. ago for cleaning all the finish woodwork before staining or just urthaneing.

 

Ya, I know she's not made of wood, but to clean wood and metal? never to old to learn something.

 

Got to get to the wet sanding now, feels like I am going backwards.

Zipper

[Parrothead Al 17]

I used to do a lot of painting on appliances with spray cans, I've found for me best results are after it dries, take a SOS pad wet it down and then add Dawn dish-washing liquid to it directly. Just flat fill it up with soap! wet down the painted surface often and in the cup of your hand make small circles using your finger tips to control the depth of cut with the soapy pad. don't add pressure but feel the rough spots in the paint being cut off. Re-coat if needed or hit with clear if needed. Good luck I hope this will help.