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stevasaurus

Question for you early RJ guys

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stevasaurus

I have an early RJ transmission # 5003 that I am going to rebuild for SmokinJoe.  It has a double pulley on the drive shaft.  The drive shaft does not go all the way through the pulley, so the set screw is not holding it on the shaft.  It is keyed, but I do not see anything to loosen to get this pulley off.  Is it a pressed fit on the drive shaft?  It looks like I could drive the input shaft out the back side with a punch, but I don't want to try it until I know for sure that's the way to go.  Any ideas???

 

Thanks :bow-blue:

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squonk

I think you need a bearing separator behind the pulley and pull it off with a puller pulling on the separator. This way you don't damage anything with the shock from the hammer blows. This is how I pull brass pump impellers off of keyed shafts so I don't cost the hospital thousands with damaged impellers. :banana-wrench:

Edited by squonk

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stevasaurus

OK, but what is holding it on now??  A taper, a key that acts like a wedge?  Do you just tap it back on when ready? :)

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wallfish

There should not be a double pulley on the trans so that is something that was added.

Could that be a pulley with a hub?

post-658-0-76872300-1368993974.jpg

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stevasaurus

I don't think so John...here are some pictures...

 

2012_0522joes0001_zpsd96f0cc0.jpg

 

 

2012_0522joes0002_zps72a9c288.jpg

 

2012_0522joes0003_zps3842fea0.jpg

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squonk

Are there any set screw holes at all ? I bet it's just rusted on. A bearing sep. behind that pulley and a puller hooked to the sep pushing on the shaft might get it off. I can't believe :wh: back in the 50's would let things get too complicated.

Edited by squonk

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stevebo

Steve-

I have never seen that set up before and I am with in saying it was added at some point.

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wallfish

I have an engine pulley like that. Set screws are in the thicker portion and not in the grooves just like you said, so the set screws are not locking to the shaft in that scenario. Must be rust welded on there. Maybe they wedged something in there and hammered it on to keep it on the shaft. Looks like heat, hammer, puller and frustration time. Get'r Done! 

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stevebo

Or you can do what I did today when pulling a hub off with a puller... it cracked pieces off the hub :banghead:

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squonk

Here's sorta what I'm talking about. Get a separator behind that pulley and clamp on to the separator with a puller and GRUNT!

 

images-1-4_zpsf6cdaf41.jpg

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buckrancher

thats not stock wheel horse Steve

you can heat it up with a torch to red hot and let it cool if it's just rusted on it should come off after you do that

 

brian

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AMC RULES

Man, that looks like fun...good luck with it Dino.   :handgestures-thumbsup: 

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stevasaurus

You guys are cracking me up. :)  Thanks for the replies.  I was thinking that this was not original, but who knows why that second pulley got there...generator?...tiller?  I just do not see anything holding it on except rust.  I have some brass punches that are about the same diameter.  I have a wheel puller that may work...not quite like what Squonk is talking  I have a pneumatic punch that I will give a short try.  I have heat...and a combination of all of the above.  Knowing that this is not original is worth a ton...thanks  I may even have an extra input shaft to replace the one I screw up.

 

If you guys have any more ideas, I am not going to attack this tomorrow...I have some time...again thanks. :)

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smoreau

Here's sorta what I'm talking about. Get a separator behind that pulley and clamp on to the separator with a puller and GRUNT!

 

images-1-4_zpsf6cdaf41.jpg

Steve you can pick up a cheep one of these at Harbor fright for around $40.  I have one and it works great for the price. 

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wallfish

How about this?

post-658-0-70164300-1369012608_thumb.jpg

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squonk

How about this?

Caption this: "Now where did Steve leave that stupid hammer again?" "Those drapes aren't going to hang themselves!" :)

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wallfish

If the big hammer doesn't work, use this tool! If this doesn't work, at least it will be exciting.

Sorry Steve, you opened the door

post-658-0-09413000-1369013628_thumb.jpg

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stevasaurus

You know, I think my sick since of humor is starting to grow on you guys... :)  Thanks for the nice day. :woohoo:  

 

I do have one more option.....wait for it.....DINO-MITE :happy-jumpeveryone: :happy-jumpeveryone:

 

seriously...let you guys know what I find...I really like that press/puller that Mike and Scott are talking about...might get one of them anyway.  thanks

 

John...we posted at the same time...great minds think alike.

Edited by stevasaurus
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squonk

Be careful with the torch! You may wreck someone's home. :)

 

184479_479609775410697_222476444_n_zpsb8

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VinsRJ

Steve,

 

If the set screw presses down onto the wood-druff key then you may have a burr/press fit situation on top of the rust issue.

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stevasaurus

Just to let you all know...I let it soak in penetrating oil until today.  I hit it with a punch a couple of times, then I put a small puller on it and it came right off. The bearing next to the input gear came apart in my hand...the inner race is still there.  I was able to turn it a little.  Time for heat and maybe a surgical incision. :)   I am finding some real differences between this early RJ #5003 and the RJ 5007 parts trans.

 

Thanks for the help.

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squonk

Just use your "Lava Vision" on it. It will fall right out! :)

 

images-11_zps9a02f12b.jpg

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armyvetwh

i use my heat vision on the race ring and my super breath on the spindle to remove the race from the spindle shaft

:laughing-rofl:

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