Kevbo 80 #1 Posted May 18, 2013 In my process to getting my tiller setup going on my 414-8, I have a couple concerns... 1) Does my belt look right? Too long? I believe it's 139" 2) I'm using a hydraulic lift and it does not seem to dig down deep into the ground? If I lengthen the chain it does not lift up high enough to travel? 3) Any recommendations on my connection? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dieselcowboy 210 #2 Posted May 19, 2013 You probably need a 1/2 in or 1" shorter belt. I use a tiller on my c160 and it does not pick it up as far as I want but it will put it in the ground. (Same problem you have.) A different chain would make a difference. The length of each link mean. Shorter links means more choices. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,943 #3 Posted May 19, 2013 I noticed in the tiller manuals a 77-36TL01 uses a #1599 Belt . A 79370 Tiller ( a 1993 Model) uses a #110265 Belt. there are two different belt numbers for the 36 inch tillers that look to be the same basic set up. I know other postings in the past about tillers have mentioned the two different lengths of the belts but when did the length change and for what model year? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,031 #4 Posted May 19, 2013 Toro 1599 {HAx139"} Toro 103635 nla and 107680 nla use 110265 (HAx141") Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,943 #5 Posted May 19, 2013 (edited) Thanks for posting this Garry. So the key word in the Service Bulletin is MAY . The old 1599 belt MAY NOT work in some instances for C Models and the Service Bulletin was issued in April 1980. To me that means #1599 Tiller Belt may work on some C Model Wheel Horse tractor applications. Edited May 20, 2013 by Lane Ranger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decksetter 50 #6 Posted May 20, 2013 What causes the difference? I bought 2 tillers at a swap meet yesterday, and one of them had a second pulley. Is this the only difference for belt length? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevbo 80 #7 Posted May 20, 2013 I figured out that my problem was the rock shaft cable was on backwards and I was using a 141" belt and I need the 139" belt. As soon as it is delivered I am good to go! Just changed the tiller oil with Mobil 1 75W-140. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,943 #8 Posted May 20, 2013 Post a picture when you get a chance Kevin of the correct way to run the belt thru the rockshaft! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedWolf23 3 #10 Posted July 16, 2013 Kevbo, I just wanted to tell ya your Idler Pulley set up is wrong the spring goes in the empty hole to the right not the one you have it attached too. yours is backwards. Just thought I would help ya! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsp_333 267 #11 Posted August 2, 2013 Just picked up a 0736TL01 for my 414-8 I borrowed and altered one of Kevbo's pics because I want to be sure I'm getting this right. Hope you don't mind. I understand from the previous post that the spring for the idler pulley is supposed attach to the frame where circled in the photo. ???????Really I'm also having trouble with belt. Can't seem to get it to fit. I'll have to measure. It was working just fine on the c-160 it came off of. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,031 #12 Posted August 2, 2013 Just picked up a 0736TL01 for my 414-8 I borrowed and altered one of Kevbo's pics because I want to be sure I'm getting this right. Hope you don't mind. I understand from the previous post that the spring for the idler pulley is supposed attach to the frame where circled in the photo. ???????Really I'm also having trouble with belt. Can't seem to get it to fit. I'll have to measure. It was working just fine on the c-160 it came off of. Wouldn't that remove the tension fron the belt? I think he has it correct. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsp_333 267 #13 Posted August 2, 2013 Ya me too. After reading the owners manual the only difference I see is that the bolt holding the spring to the frame should be longer. I think about 2". But the set up dosen't appear to be backwards. I've misunderstood Redwolf23 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,408 #14 Posted August 2, 2013 Redwolf's instructions are right..... for a different idler configuration. The spring for the L-shaped idler goes where Kevin has it. The spring for the I-shaped idler goes to the front hole. (image from) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsp_333 267 #15 Posted August 2, 2013 Thanks for the clarification. 3 sides to every story. cheers, john Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IthacaJeff 151 #16 Posted August 4, 2013 The spring is in the right place, but the idler pulleys are too much in line, which is causing the belts to be too close together. If there were less slack in the belts there would be more tension pulling on the small pulley, which would stretch the spring and separate the belts. It may indeed be that the belt is too long. Jeff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bean 85 #17 Posted August 4, 2013 (edited) if the belt was shorter, your small idler pulley would be in the 10 o'clock position, instead of the 9 o'clock position. that would correct the problem Edited August 4, 2013 by bean Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
