42 inch rear discharge deck

[Hodge71 664]

Anyone be able to tell me if the drive belt is shorter than a standard side discharge deck. I have a line on a nice rear discharge deck owner says he cant get it to cut because the belt from his 42 inch side discharge flops around like its too long. If it is different what belt do I need to run this deck from the engine to the deck through the mule drive?

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,278]

[Hodge71 664]

Thanks Karl. Hope you're feeling better and your recovery is going well.

 

I see that its acually about 7 inches shorter than the drive belt for a side discharge deck, 95 1/2 vs 103 inches. I will order the OEM belt but I would like to buy this mower deck tomorrow and throw it on the 416 until I can run and get my new (to me) 14 auto. I have found out the deck is from 1977 and also needs new blades as well. Are they the same blades as a 42 inch side discharge deck? Can I put Gator Blades on her ?

Edited May 9, 2013 by hodge71

[Hodge71 664]

Well I found blades and a belt the next quwstion I have is value. This deck is listed for $300. Knowing now that blades are $35 a set and the drive belt is $33. The deck had some spider cracks around the spindle taht have benn welded. Other than that and the things listed above the pics he sent me show a deck in good shape. So is 300 fair or what would be a fair price to offer? I'm leaving at 7 tomorrow morning for NY to pick her up so any info as far as the offer would be great.

[Hodge71 664]

Got her home and its a little rough but I got the major dents pounded out with the 4 pound engineers hammer. New gator blades ordered and drive belt will be in Monday. I cannot believe how abused the blades are on this. Measured them to the deck bottom to be sure they were bent and not the spindles themselves. Got a bit of welding to do and gonna coat the bottom of the deck with POR-15 after I do the welding and clean things up. 

 

 

 

[GlenPettit 1,716]

Those are about the worst blades I've ever seen. The upper baffle looks standard and the extensions look non-factory homemade, but well done.

Please keep us posted on your progress with the welding, and lots of details and photos -- I have two 42 RD decks that have a lot of cracks around the spindles that need to welded, the decks are basically rust-free and perfect otherwise, just the fatigue cracks around the spindles. Can't use them, ready to fix . . . I have a small mig-welder but not sure where to start (other than cleaning and grinding area to be welded). Using a lot of JBWeld and a larger plate (washer-like) has been recommended, in addition to the mig-welding.

Consider doubling up on the blades, with both sets, regular 'new' blades below the three new Gator blades ( ='s 12 cutting edges ).

 

Adding a baffle on the back of the RD deck will greatly reduce 'blow-up' of the clippings into your tractor.
The black on the RD is Slip Plate (black graphite), when I restored the deck, the underside was etched, primed, and painted gloss white, then the 'Slip Plate ($12/qt = 3 coats or 3 years) was brushed on; this greatly reduced the wet grass from sticking to the underside, the exposed white tells me 'wear', where to re-coat for next season.  The SD deck had less use, but with no coating gave a lot more build-up.

 

Edited & updated: 6:30pm Saturday.

[Trouty56 566]

Good idea on the back deflector to keep clippings off the rear. This is going on a 14 auto isn't it. Don't need clippings clogging the cooling fins.

[Hodge71 664]

Glen,

 

I love the idea with the 2 sets of blades, thats great!!! I will be putting that baffle/extension on the back of this deck also. DO you have any close ups or measurements I could go off of? I see on the drawings in the owners manual I downloaded that it had one from the factory but theres no info other than a part number. 

[GlenPettit 1,716]

I used "Cove edge" (the 4"high x 40" long) kitchen appliance base rubber molding ($3, Home Depot), use the better stiffer quality style.

 

The original factory part was 3/16" metal, about 32" long and bolted into the five bolt holes already there (part no longer available), it stuck out about 1.25".   You need to allow enough clearance for the rear wheels and the slight 'wiggle' of the deck, I left it a little longer between the rear wheels (my tires are 12" wide).  

When I have to replace this, I'll use a 32" strip of cove edge cut to 3.0"wide plus a 16" piece of cove edge on top of that, centered, x full 4", with the curve down; five short carriage bolts with fender washers will hold it all on, as shown in photo.  This reduced the grass blow-up to very very little, 2% at most, big improvement. This thin-cheap cove edge lasts about 2-years, would prefer a thicker rubber (like the belting at TSC).

Good luck, 

[squonk 41,125]

I made a rubber baffle too. Keeps the Hydro cleaner and cooler too!

[leeave96 487]

The rubber baffle is a great idea.  I've got some round baler belting I'm going to use for this on my 42" RD deck.

[armyvetwh 3]

i just got my Wheel Horse(1-0120-8) and plan on cleaning it up and repairing/painting it. most likely will be in Lansing, Michigan for a family reunion then. will try to stop buy and see exactly what you are showing there if you don't mind. will be about august 2nd-5th. might be able to exchange some ideas personally that way.  will bring some pic's also of mine as i go through it.

[cod 120]

Those are about the worst blades I've ever seen. The upper baffle looks standard and the extensions look non-factory homemade, but well done.

Please keep us posted on your progress with the welding, and lots of details and photos -- I have two 42 RD decks that have a lot of cracks around the spindles that need to welded, the decks are basically rust-free and perfect otherwise, just the fatigue cracks around the spindles. Can't use them, ready to fix . . . I have a small mig-welder but not sure where to start (other than cleaning and grinding area to be welded). Using a lot of JBWeld and a larger plate (washer-like) has been recommended, in addition to the mig-welding.

Consider doubling up on the blades, with both sets, regular 'new' blades below the three new Gator blades ( ='s 12 cutting edges ).

 

Adding a baffle on the back of the RD deck will greatly reduce 'blow-up' of the clippings into your tractor.

The black on the RD is Slip Plate (black graphite), when I restored the deck, the underside was etched, primed, and painted gloss white, then the 'Slip Plate ($12/qt = 3 coats or 3 years) was brushed on; this greatly reduced the wet grass from sticking to the underside, the exposed white tells me 'wear', where to re-coat for next season.  The SD deck had less use, but with no coating gave a lot more build-up.

 

Edited & updated: 6:30pm Saturday.

Glen,

Neat work on your decks and while I've copied the deflector, I'm thinking about your extra blade setup.  If you have a moment can you explain why you went with this setup.  I've been looking into ways I could raise my deck higher so I've gone to 7 inch wheels and if I can reduce the windrow effect of having a rear discharge deck, the extra blades might do the trick.  The paint idea for the bottom is also something I'm going to look into but one thing at a time.

[GlenPettit 1,716]

Cod:

The original 3 blades give you six actual cutting edges, –– by adding the Gator Blades (just above the original blades), you now have 12 cutting edges.  Even more important, the high back on the Gator Blades creates a much greater air-flow and "throw", cutting the grass blades into much smaller pieces and throwing it out the back even better.  I'm a big supporter of this double bladed system.  

•• I like sharp blades and sharpen the original blades about every 20 hours, 3 times per season, but the Gator Blades only need sharpening once per season (we have lots of moles, and dirt piles).  There is plenty of thread to have dual blades on each spindle, at 90º, but if needed, there are thinner 3/4" nuts available.

•• Just had some major welding and repair done on a couple of my 42" RD decks, will post pictures & details next week, the (mower-deck repair experienced) Professional Welder replaced damage with some new thicker (plasma cut) plates for the 3 spindles & rear lift brackets, that they made in-shop. "Better than original now".

•• I tried larger-taller wheels to raise our 48" SD deck, . . .    not happy -- the new wheels have a lot more pressure/weight on them and wear out very fast.   Running 20psi in all four wheels might give you 1/4–1/2" higher, but just mowing with the deck up (not lowering the lift lever) let me mow at about 5" for my Sheep Pasture.

 

Glen

Edited August 2, 2013 by GlenPettit

[Butch 194]

Those are about the worst blades I've ever seen. The upper baffle looks standard and the extensions look non-factory homemade, but well done.

Please keep us posted on your progress with the welding, and lots of details and photos -- I have two 42 RD decks that have a lot of cracks around the spindles that need to welded, the decks are basically rust-free and perfect otherwise, just the fatigue cracks around the spindles. Can't use them, ready to fix . . . I have a small mig-welder but not sure where to start (other than cleaning and grinding area to be welded). Using a lot of JBWeld and a larger plate (washer-like) has been recommended, in addition to the mig-welding.

Consider doubling up on the blades, with both sets, regular 'new' blades below the three new Gator blades ( ='s 12 cutting edges ).

 

Adding a baffle on the back of the RD deck will greatly reduce 'blow-up' of the clippings into your tractor.

The black on the RD is Slip Plate (black graphite), when I restored the deck, the underside was etched, primed, and painted gloss white, then the 'Slip Plate ($12/qt = 3 coats or 3 years) was brushed on; this greatly reduced the wet grass from sticking to the underside, the exposed white tells me 'wear', where to re-coat for next season.  The SD deck had less use, but with no coating gave a lot more build-up.

 

Edited & updated: 6:30pm Saturday.

Would seem to me that the lower blades would do the cutting and the upper blades are there for the ride. With two different cutting heights only one can be doing the cutting.

[cod 120]

Cod:

The original 3 blades give you six actual cutting edges, –– by adding the Gator Blades (just above the original blades), you now have 12 cutting edges.  Even more important, the high back on the Gator Blades creates a much greater air-flow and "throw", cutting the grass blades into much smaller pieces and throwing it out the back even better.  I'm a big supporter of this double bladed system.  

•• I like sharp blades and sharpen the original blades about every 20 hours, 3 times per season, but the Gator Blades only need sharpening once per season (we have lots of moles, and dirt piles).  There is plenty of thread to have dual blades on each spindle, at 90º, but if needed, there are thinner 3/4" nuts available.

•• Just had some major welding and repair done on a couple of my 42" RD decks, will post pictures & details next week, the (mower-deck repair experienced) Professional Welder replaced damage with some new thicker (plasma cut) plates for the 3 spindles & rear lift brackets, that they made in-shop. "Better than original now".

•• I tried larger-taller wheels to raise our 48" SD deck, . . .    not happy -- the new wheels have a lot more pressure/weight on them and wear out very fast.   Running 20psi in all four wheels might give you 1/4–1/2" higher, but just mowing with the deck up (not lowering the lift lever) let me mow at about 5" for my Sheep Pasture.

 

Glen

 

Thanks for the feedback Glen.  Earlier today I increased the air pressure in the tires as a temporary fix as the hydralics on my 418 aren't great and I doubt that the deck would stay up without constant supervision but having it up all the way makes the most sense for a higher cut.  As for the larger wheels, I'll keep an eye on them too as they aren't quite as wide as the originals so they may drag more when cornering.  While I was pumping the tires up I took a look under the deck and if I go with the extra blades I'll have to get thinner nuts as the current ones have approximately 1 thread showing now but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

 

Thanks again - Cod

[skrusins 128]

Their may be washers under the nuts that you can do without to give you more thread.

[Hodge71 664]

When you put the second set of blades on you don't use washers. I have done it with my 42 RD. 

 

 

Those are about the worst blades I've ever seen. The upper baffle looks standard and the extensions look non-factory homemade, but well done.

Please keep us posted on your progress with the welding, and lots of details and photos -- I have two 42 RD decks that have a lot of cracks around the spindles that need to welded, the decks are basically rust-free and perfect otherwise, just the fatigue cracks around the spindles. Can't use them, ready to fix . . . I have a small mig-welder but not sure where to start (other than cleaning and grinding area to be welded). Using a lot of JBWeld and a larger plate (washer-like) has been recommended, in addition to the mig-welding.

Consider doubling up on the blades, with both sets, regular 'new' blades below the three new Gator blades ( ='s 12 cutting edges ).

 

Adding a baffle on the back of the RD deck will greatly reduce 'blow-up' of the clippings into your tractor.
The black on the RD is Slip Plate (black graphite), when I restored the deck, the underside was etched, primed, and painted gloss white, then the 'Slip Plate ($12/qt = 3 coats or 3 years) was brushed on; this greatly reduced the wet grass from sticking to the underside, the exposed white tells me 'wear', where to re-coat for next season.  The SD deck had less use, but with no coating gave a lot more build-up.

 

Edited & updated: 6:30pm Saturday.

Would seem to me that the lower blades would do the cutting and the upper blades are there for the ride. With two different cutting heights only one can be doing the cutting.

 

Butch,

 

my Honda push mower came from the factory with 2 blades stacked one on top of the other with a washer in between. The bottom blade cuts the grass and the top blade cuts the clippings smaller, thats its only purpose

[peter lena 8,631]

[peter lena 8,631]

yesterday i was replying to a member about putting belt idler pulleys on my mower decks, he asked me for a picture, sorry i did not recall the member . anyway i have installed them on both 36" and 42"   R/D  decks ,also changed out the original w/h wheels with the martin wheels available at T/S and found them to work very well . as you can see the idler pulley exerts little pressure on the unsupported back belt spindle area. but its enough to stop the constant belt buzz on these decks. those pulleys and the wheel upgrade make real difference in  quiet  efficient  operation. deck comparison pictures show mounting points , and wheels used , pete   

[Stepney 2,325]

Peter, could you explain what you mean by buzz? I have had a few RD decks and never noticed any particular sound outside of bearings. Might have to tack a pulley on like that just to see if anything changes I guess haha. 
Funny to bring up such an old post, and see a 42"RD with baffles. I have one just like that here down to the little 'tail fins' and could never find photos of another like it. 

[peter lena 8,631]

On 12/21/2019 at 10:53 AM, peter lena said:

mudrig150, in addition to redoing your wire harness , you could use the opportunity to enhance and build in wire protection with this , https://www.amazon.com/s?k=wire+spiral+wrap&gclid=Cj0KCQiAovfvBRCRARIsADEmbRJRMqKFXLgO-XdIzfoN_TNdXf1C97x0EDb8jCMu1-1lVGBxFL_cYS0aArdwEALw_wcB&hvadid=174250414685&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003310&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=8871138045417823177&hvtargid=aud-840076997981%3Akwd-595774755&hydadcr=24659_9648993&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_vez8jz9bp_b  this wire wrap will eliminate chafing , i would also change routing to make it better.  use DIELECTRIC GREASE at every connection and fitting for zero connection issues.  i did my harness in pieces , getting the worst first , and rerouting the rest , for a no friction fit, good luck with it . also wire in your battery tender plug in ,for quick access and use, pete 

 

[peter lena 8,631]

that deck buzz is caused by the back side of the unsupported spindle drive belt, pictures 1, 2, 3 . easy to install by drilling a hole in deck and using a 3/8 bolt with elastic lock nut to insure solid smooth pulley function. those pulleys are about 8$ . turn pulley over so that extended bushing is face down and flat washer  based off deck, for clearance and exact belt  setting. as i have mentioned before , many of the original w/h attachments are a very sloppy fit and need help. using flat washers and lubricant at all rusty and binding function points make for a solid and smooth function point. my experience, pete 

[tom2p 2,394]

can spot the area where belt will often contact the deck (in the area Pete mentions above)

 

paint is worn (bare metal) from belt contacting the deck 

 

Pete installed an idler pulley in this area to improve operation

 

should reduce buzz / noise and possibly increase belt life 

 

I might add a pulley this summer

 

 

Edited December 23, 2019 by tom2p

[peter lena 8,631]

On 5/17/2020 at 8:39 AM, jim3sr said: