varosd 1,185 #1 Posted May 5, 2013 Do you think this could be used to pull those pesky hubs? It's not mine, so I don't know the spacing etc.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,872 #2 Posted May 5, 2013 That is a cute one Don...I see no reason why it would not work. Pretty cool. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,375 #3 Posted May 5, 2013 (edited) I have one of those "monstrosities" minus the t bar handle. I use a big socket on an impact gun with it. It's really to big for a WH hub. I use a Chevy Citation hub puller for when I need to shoe the Horsies Edited May 5, 2013 by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #4 Posted May 7, 2013 Looks to have some adjustment to slide the arms around and also some in and out movement on the out side radius of the center. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
varosd 1,185 #5 Posted May 7, 2013 I did end up picking it up. like Mike said, the push out part is a 1/4 too big, but easy to just use a correct size socket to push on the axle. the arms rotate aound on a ring area and also can be removed. heavy, heavy US made. When I changed my 520-H and B-80 to lug nuts, after pulling out the set screws, all the hubs are frozen on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #6 Posted May 7, 2013 The old studebaker and dodge group I believe used a hub puller like that. The had splined axels that went through hub. Mine was very much like that minus hammer "nut" (for lack of better termonology). Might even work on the four luggers, definitely the 6 luggers> And it appears HEAVY duty. Still would require caution with over stress on that cast , several steps and maybe a rotation of pull point (alternating studs to bear on). Nice tool to have at any rate Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorsedairyfarmer 13 #7 Posted May 17, 2013 I'm yanking my hair out on these *censored censored censored censored censor of a censor* hubs on my 310-8. Got an axle seal to change. Did them on my c-141 with a few light hammer taps on the hub and got them right off. Tried a gear arm puller on the 310 and all it did was flatten the little tip on the puller. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
puddlejumper 67 #8 Posted May 17, 2013 some heat will help, But if there tight a heavy homemade puller is priceless. And if all else fails a sawzall and a call to kelly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorsedairyfarmer 13 #9 Posted May 17, 2013 I'm thinking the sawzall is going to be the answer to the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bob393 3 #10 Posted May 17, 2013 Yup sawzall. But use a plug in model not a battery powered one. They just don't have the guts for the job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,887 #11 Posted May 17, 2013 Just had a very recalcitrant hub on a C-141. I have had great success with this puller but even standing on the cheater bar socket wrench no movement. Had to get out the Acetylene torch. Even then using the impact wrench only got part way off...had to stop and reheat. Fought all the way to the end. The axle seal is toasted now for sure... Note the deformation of the 3/4 inch bolt head from the impact wrench hammering away. It is a grade 8 bolt. The old IR231 got a real work out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorsedairyfarmer 13 #12 Posted May 17, 2013 I have a DeWalt corded model. I toasted 7 blades thus far, and broke a few pieces of the hub off. Gonna have to go to the store and get more blades. Thankfully, I have a good used hub off another tractor to replace it with. Dealer says new hubs are pushing $80 a piece. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,887 #13 Posted May 17, 2013 I have a DeWalt corded model. I toasted 7 blades thus far, and broke a few pieces of the hub off. Gonna have to go to the store and get more blades. Thankfully, I have a good used hub off another tractor to replace it with. Dealer says new hubs are pushing $80 a piece. I have found that Starret reciprocating saw blades are head and shoulders better that Dewalt or Milwaukee blades. Just cut down through the flange and into the shaft portion of the hub. Oncee you get about 1/4" form the axle put a chisel in the slot and wack away at it. Hub will most likely crack all the way through. You can then pull it or make another cut on the other side and split it in 2. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-101plowerpower 1,605 #14 Posted May 22, 2013 why do you guys all have a hard time getting the hubs off? all i need to do is get the wheels off, remove the bolts that go through the hub and pull it off with my hands. but mine aren't keyed so maybe thats why its so easy for me. Koen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #15 Posted May 22, 2013 Just had a very recalcitrant hub on a C-141. I have had great success with this puller but even standing on the cheater bar socket wrench no movement. Note the deformation of the 3/4 inch bolt head from the impact wrench hammering away. It is a grade 8 bolt. Paul, I try the opposite method of power assisted removal of the hubs. I don't impact the center bolt in the hub, I take turns hitting the outer bolts and driving each one just a few turns then moving on to the next one, in a circular fashion. I have removed a dozen or more hubs - some fight all the way - but I have never had to apply heat to the hub using the circular method on the outer bolts. Maybe just pure luck on my part but several hubs were bone dry and gritty. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #16 Posted May 22, 2013 Just had a very recalcitrant hub on a C-141. I have had great success with this puller but even standing on the cheater bar socket wrench no movement. Note the deformation of the 3/4 inch bolt head from the impact wrench hammering away. It is a grade 8 bolt. Paul, I try the opposite method of power assisted removal of the hubs. I don't impact the center bolt in the hub, I take turns hitting the outer bolts and driving each one just a few turns then moving on to the next one, in a circular fashion. I have removed a dozen or more hubs - some fight all the way - but I have never had to apply heat to the hub using the circular method on the outer bolts. Maybe just pure luck on my part but several hubs were bone dry and gritty. Chuck, I'm having a little difficulty visualizing your method here. Can you maybe post a picture or two? Thanks! Duff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #17 Posted May 23, 2013 Hey Duff, what I do is run the 1 inch center bolt down onto the axle. The 5 outer bolts I hand tighten. In turn, I hold the nut of one outer bolts with a wrench and crank the head of that bolt about 2 turns using an air impact gun. I then move to the next outer bolt, wrench the nut and buzz the bolt 2 turns with the impact gun. So on and so on around all 5 outer bolts. The key is only turning each outer bolt 1 or 2 turns at a time and then moving on to the next bolt. It is a little more time consuming, but I have yet to fail to take off some really dry, nasty hubs using the process. My daughters bought me a phenomenal HD camera for Christmas, I probably should use it to document some of this stuff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,887 #18 Posted May 23, 2013 Hey Duff, what I do is run the 1 inch center bolt down onto the axle. The 5 outer bolts I hand tighten. In turn, I hold the nut of one outer bolts with a wrench and crank the head of that bolt about 2 turns using an air impact gun. I then move to the next outer bolt, wrench the nut and buzz the bolt 2 turns with the impact gun. So on and so on around all 5 outer bolts. The key is only turning each outer bolt 1 or 2 turns at a time and then moving on to the next bolt. It is a little more time consuming, but I have yet to fail to take off some really dry, nasty hubs using the process. My daughters bought me a phenomenal HD camera for Christmas, I probably should use it to document some of this stuff. Chuck: Glad to hear you had success that way. I have always been afraid that it would apply uneven stress and break the flange on the puller or the pullee. Will definitely try you way next time! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #19 Posted May 27, 2013 I'll give it a try! Thanks, Chuck! ~Duff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites