Installing Dozer Blade Question

[Indy443 30]

Hi guys,

 

I picked up a dozer blade a few months ago, long before I intended to use it and just this afternoon hauled it out of the garage to make a bid at getting it hooked up. I've never installed the blade so I'm not entirely sure how to do it. I'm also not sure I have everything to get it hooked up. This would be going on a 312-8.

 

I took a few photos to see if someone might be able to see if I am missing anything, or who could maybe walk me through the installation steps. I'd love to get this on this weekend so I can put it to use.

 

Thanks!

 

Jesse

 

Photo of the rear end. Do I need something that the rear bar on the frame can slot into that would then take the brunt of the pushing force? Right now I do now see what this bar (on the rear of the dozer frame) would hook into.

 

 

Another look. I believe that upper black bracket is for the bagger that came with the tractor:

 

 

 

 

The rear bar on the back of the blade frame, what does this hook into?

 

 

 

 

 

The full blade (this is everything that came when I bought it):

 

[chazm 412]

Hi Indy, yes your missing tha quick attch brackets that bolt to the rear axle housing, they attch to the rear bar on the  blade.

I think there are a couple types depending on model tractor, I'll have to see if I can find pics, but I sure someone else will chime in with part numbers

 

 

Chasm

[Don1977 604]

This tread will show the part you are missing.

I was trying to link to the Manuals section for the blade manual but Red Square won't let me link it.

Look in the manual section for 1993-1994 blade manual.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,690]

1993-1994 48" dozer blade manual

 

[Wyattrrp 59]

 

Plow bracket Bolts to the axle housing on each side with slots down.  Silver parts rotate to close the slot once rear plow bracket is inside.

[Wyattrrp 59]

Don1977 above provided a link to Nylyon's installation instructions topic, that shows the round cross bar at the rear of the plow frame lifted into the bracket slot and the silver arms are rotated to close the slot.  Also in those photos the 4th picture shows a short lift bar connecting between the vertical bracket welded to your middle cross bar on your frame and the lift arm under the tractor, the arm that lifts by the chain shown, when the tall lift lever is pulled back while seated on the tractor.  A pin goes thru the lift arm as shown in photo 4.  In your  pictures cant really tell if you have the short connector.  It can be solid or even a chain about 5 to 5.5 inches long.  

 

In the photo just above, the bracket is the type for a 312-8 and should actually rotate toward the camera so the silver levers are lying flat on the floor. The 4 bolts extend up along the front and rear of the tranny axle housing, with that flat bar at bolt ends lying on top of the axle housing.  I have hitch pins (hair pin cotters) inserted in the small holes provided so the arms wont rotate and let the plow frame rear cross round bar slip out. The plow pushes on this bracket and the rear axle and pivots up/down on this bracket via the rear round cross bar.

 

Whoever sold you the plow may still have the bracket on the axle and forgot to give it to you. Or they may keep it for another plow or a tiller.  They are for sale on CL or the Classifieds here for $35 to $50 periodically. 

Wyatt

[Indy443 30]

Hi guys,

 

Thank you for the very helpful replies. I am sure I can get the blade hooked up without any trouble. I do have a problem however. The original sale of the blade did not include the plow bracket and I have had no luck finding one for sale locally.

 

Does anyone have one for sale and reasonably priced? I would take it.

 

Thanks!

 

Jesse 

[Wheelhorse84 87]

Nice blade.

[Indy443 30]

Yesterday while heading to the dump I saw a guy in front of his house with his Wheel Horse on stands, tires off and what looked like a guy doing a whole bunch of work to it. So I had to pull in his driveway and introduce myself. Turns out Mike is a WH nut who had not just the one, but about six different tractors in various stages of decay through working everyday tractors. We had a nice time talking about them. I explained my situation about the bade but no bracket and he immediately disappeared into his garage and came out with the bracket in about 30 seconds. He is letting me use it to get the blade hooked up while I find one for myself. He wasn't interested in selling it.

 

Yesterday afternoon  got the blade hooked up fine but ran into a problem right away. With the blade 'lifted up' it only comes up off the ground about an inch. Which makes it nearly impossible to drive on anything but the flattest ground. While I was trying to move to the area that I needed to use the blade I took more than a few chunks out of the lawn because the blade was so low. I was unable to go up onto my walk way and get to another section I wanted to blade because I would have ripped up the stone in my walk. And that shut down what I was able to get done with the blade almost immediately. WIth the lifting 'rod' taken out I am able to go to the front of the blade and lift up about 10" off the ground before it hits the front of the tractor frame. That would give me far more workable clearance than the one inch I am getting when it is hooked up correctly.

 

Does anyone have a solution for this? I'd find the blade quite impracticable if I can't really move anywhere with it without it scraping the ground.

 

Thanks!

 

Jesse 

[varosd 1,185]

 

As stated from Wyatt, make sure you connect the little silver metal bar/tab (on the snow blade)to the correct hole on the tractor lift arm, with the chain..if you just use the mower deck lift tab instead of hooking up with the chain might be the issue. you should then also move the top portion chain that connects up rockshaft (part 19) to the correct hole.  it's all about leverage. 

[Indy443 30]

Varo, thank you for the info. Where did you get the parts diagram you posted? Also, when you say

 

"you should then also move the top portion chain that connects up rockshaft (part 19) to the correct hole.  it's all about leverage."

 

How would you do that? Or, I guess I go out tomorrow lie on my back under that tractor and make it work. I am pretty sure I had everything hooked up the right way but it was still only lifting up about an inch or two off the ground. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,690]

Is there a model and serial number on a decal under the tractor seat? Will try to find you the correct manuals. If not readable post all the numbers off the engine including the Kohler serial number.

 

Adding

Found part of it. You can download the operator manual and more from

https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm

Enter your 31-12K804 model number and use 2012345 for a serial number.

 

Garry

[varosd 1,185]

 

 

 

 

picture 2, see how the trunnion (part 20) at the end of the chain  can be placed in multiple holes of the bell crank (part 19) ( I incorrectly called it a rockshaft).