Lawn Fertiziler Recommendations

[leeave96 487]

Firstly, don't know if this belongs in the Gardening forum or non-Tractor Discussion forum - Moderators please mover if necessary, thanks!

 

I'd like to fertilize my lawn this week.  Don't have a soil test, doubt I would get one.

 

I'm looking for some general advice as to what N-P-K mixture I should use on my lawn.  My lawn is no show piece and probably never will be - but I'd like to put down some fertilizer, over seed and get the whole lawn green and thicker this year.

 

I don't know where it came from, but I've got a bag of 10-10-10, 19-19-19 that I'd like to use, just to get it out of my basement.

 

I've had folks (who may or may not know) tell me just to get 10-10-10, put it down and save a lot of $$'s and other that tell me to go high on the Nitrogen and low on the phosphorus and low on the pot ash.

 

Around my neck of the woods, it still fairly cool and a goodly amount of moisture in the ground, rain in the forecast - no drought like later in the summer months.

 

What would you recommend?

 

Also - which is it, in fertilizer that causes a deck to rust?  The Nitrogen, phosphorous or pot ash - or all three?

 

Thanks!

Bill

 

[rmaynard 15,735]

Can't tell you about the rust, but if you go to the Scott's web site, you can sign up for their reminders. Based on your location, type of lawn you have, etc., they will recommend what product to use at what time of the year. Also, if any unusual weather occurs in your area, you will be updated as to how to handle your lawn.

 

So having said that, if you get a recommendation from Scott's, go to your local home center, see what the ingredients are, and shop them around for the best prices. I know that what Scott's used to sell for $40.00 in a 15,000 sq. ft. coverage bag, is now $52.00 for a 12,000 sq. ft bag. Be careful when pricing.

[KATO 115]

I've had VERY good luck with TSC store's house brand.can't remember who makes it

off the top of my head. It's 20-5 -15 i believe with 65% slow release nitrogen .

one bag covers 12000 sq ft . still have lots of snow on the ground here so

i haven't looked for it yet this year. The quantity of slow release Nitrogen is the

most important to me. It seems to last 2-3 months with normal rainfall.

[Tankman 3,520]

Don't know what type of soil and/or grass you have but, use the fertilizer you have onhand.

Get it down. If your soil is heavy, spread sand. Sand won't change pH of the soil. Sand will warm and hold heat for the young grasses in early spring, keeps the seedlings "feet" warm and improves drainage. Gypsum is a great product for lawns (will be the most used mineral for farming for the next 100 years!).

Keep in mind there's no such grass as "shady lawn", all grasses need sunlight.

I would fertilize now, and over seed NOW. The new seed would have some spring daylight before dicedious (leafy) trees shade the new seedlings.

Seed names say alot; i.e.: blue grass, Kentucky blue grass, Kentucky vita blue grass. The more names seeds have the more developed the hybrid; better survival and growing. Be sure to seed with "mixtures"; i.e.: if the blue grass is hit with a disease, the other seed types like fescues and rye would continue to grow. Your lawn won't get wiped out.

A good landscape supply or your state Ag college/university can test your pH from soil samples.

This test is often free. Most weeds like acid, grasses want to be neutral; pH 7.0. If you want to you could purchase inexpensive pH test strips.

[GlenPettit 1,717]

N-P-K
Nitrogen - goes mainly to the leaves
Phosphorus - goes mainly to the stem, the main part of the plant
Potash - is mainly for the roots
A soil test will tell you how much of each is left in your soil and also the pH of your soil.
Plants need nutrition, water and air in the soil for good growth, plus the right soil.
In nature, naturally; Rain (lightening) and snow give your soil Nitrogen, organics (decaying bacteria)
and minerals give you the other two. Clay is great for growing but packs down too tight by itself, then
sand is very open but doesn't hold much and peat lacks & is often too wet, we want a mixture of these.
• Old fertilizer is OK, just a little weaker, especially the Nitrogen, dry it all out and break it up.
• With good soil, 10-10-10 is fine and saves $$$. 19-19-19 is stronger, could burn if too thick/heavy.
• Some soils already have plenty of Phosphorus or Potash and don't need any more (waste of $$).
• Winter snow and Spring rains leave plenty of Nitrogen in the Spring, but by June/July the lawns may
need Nitrogen. In hot areas, lawns need to go somewhat dormant in mid-late Summer (lack of water).

• Overseeding in the early Spring is good, Dethatch first & cut grass short. Leave fine-small clippings.
• Nitrogen is a strong acid that reacts with everything and causes most the problems (also evaporates).

There is a "science" to feeding a lawn. Usually less is better. Like with our tractors, we need to know and
understand what is going on in and under our lawn and to work with Nature. Feeding too much Nitrogen
means we must keep watering (deep) all summer, and then weeds will grow more so we need to use the
weed killers and chemicals, and then ease up for Winter. A beautiful thick lush perfect green lawn requires
a lot of work to maintain, and lots of $$, and cutting, and time, etc . . .
• The best advice I could give you is to talk with a neighbor(s) with the same soil who has a "nice" lawn (not
perfect) and see what they do and when they do it. "Feed the soil and let it feed the plant".

Using Nitrogen that is 20, 30 or 40% is just asking for trouble (and kills all the good bacteria & worms in the soil).

Gypsum opens up clay soil and helps hold nutrients & moisture.  Lime promotes good grass.
It takes time to build a nice lawn, Good Luck

[CasualObserver 3,409]

I'd like to fertilize my lawn this week.  Don't have a soil test, doubt I would get one.

My first reaction is if this is really your attitude, then you're just as well throwing that fertilizer in the trash as putting it on your lawn.  If you don't test the soil and find out what levels you have, it's like adding salt to food without tasting it.  How do you know what it needs?  The point in fertilizing is to balance the elements in your lawn.  Otherwise it's wasted effort (except for the exercise of walking the spreader around)

 

In reality though, its not going to hurt your lawn if you just spread it according to the directions on the packaging.  If you don't know what your spreader settings are, you can usually find any spreaders old owners manuals on the company's websites.

[dcrage 628]

And just to add another twist to all of this; my understanding is that the optimal time to do all of this is in the fall -- It really helps your overseeded grass stand take hold -- Now if you have irrigation; you can maintain the spring overseeded plants thru the July-Sept heat with continual deep watering -- If you don't have in ground irrigation; it will be a constant fight to maintain needed water levels

[6wheeler 641]

On grass? I am a 20-10-10 guy. All of the fertilizers including Old Clarabelles pasture frisbees will corrode iron or steel. But so do acids just from mowing your grass. Clean the machine after use to cut down on that. A soil test is relatively cheap and your local extension office or elevator will do it. Hardwoods and Coniferous trees give of lots of acid so a Ph test "IS" important. I put down simple sweet barn lime every 2 years and it seems to help alot. It is cheap and slow release plus it works. I also only fertilize every couple of years as well. It doesn't do your grass any good if it is going down the storm drain. The rivers and lakes do not need it  so be mindfull of over use.

[leeave96 487]

Good news, got my lawn aerated with a tow behind core aerator (read seat time... ), fertilizer and grass seed sowed (read more seat time... ) and last night we got about 2 inches of wet snow, so the ground is covered in a way that I could never water it - and with the melt, a nice even watering of the lawn.  Today it's supposed to get into the 60's and up into the 70's next week.

 

I should have some greening of the grass shortly.

 

I might ought to get the blades sharpened and a deck in place sooner than later... 

 

Thanks!

Bill

[AMC RULES 37,141]

I should have some greening of the grass shortly.

 

Edited April 6, 2013 by amcrules00

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,177]

Well, When it come to lawn fertilizer I like to avoid the stuff mixed with weed killer. Reason being my yards fairly weed free . I believe this is because I never set my mower for less than 3",raise it to 3.5" or more during dry spells. and putting weed killer on every square inch of grass is wastefull and harder on the enviroment. when I do apply weed killer I'll mix an appropriate amount in my one gallon pump-up sprayer and spray the individual weeds only. Also, If I'm correct,the phosphorus is suppost to be plentiful in the soils where I live so all the fertilizer that is sold here at local retailers for home owners by law should be phosphorus free.

[rick 237]

The proper soil pH is crucial to fertilizer uptake by plants....as important as NPK ratios.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[bubbacola 8]

   I like 10-10-10  or 12-12-12 in the spring.. Used it for years with great success.  Grows green and thick  I also like to cut 3 to 3 1/2 inch.  Only need to spray weeds every 3 to 4 years