Marv 952 #1 Posted March 31, 2013 I need the plastic part for the three lead connector to a 15 amp regulator used on C & D series tractors. That is the part that the wires lock into. Any ideas where these can be had? Marvin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,568 #2 Posted March 31, 2013 this should do it Marvin, http://www.partstree.com/parts/?pn=101476 http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=101476+connector&oq=101476+connector&gs_l=hp.3...2467.7765.0.8457.11.11.0.0.0.0.472.2004.0j9j1j0j1.11.0...0.0...1c.1.7.psy-ab.IkJ4b1g3W90&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.44442042,d.dmg&fp=aa7899e64e1d28d6&biw=1280&bih=819 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 952 #3 Posted April 5, 2013 Thanks Old. I have a couple tractors that need those. Marvin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 952 #4 Posted April 18, 2013 Hey Old, Do you know a source for the terminals with the spring lock that fit the connector? Marvfin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,568 #5 Posted April 18, 2013 The terminals you are looking for are called "Packard 56 Style". Choose a terminal consistent with the wire gauge you are using. There are 12 AWG terminals and 14 - 20 AWG styles. You will most likely be using the 14 / 16 AWG style. Terminals are available in brass and tin plated brass, with tin plated being more corrosion resistant (and about twice the price of plain brass). Small quantities can be purchased at NAPA and larger quantities (25 - 50 pieces) can be had on the internet for about $10 to your doorstep. Try this link http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-16-Gauge-Packard-56-Female-Electrical-Terminal-Terminals-25-Pack-/151004255460?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23288e14e4&vxp=mtr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 952 #6 Posted April 23, 2013 Thanks for the terminal info. Been wondering about those for some time. Marvin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 952 #7 Posted April 27, 2013 Hey Old, Know of a crimper available that crimps these like original? Marvin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,568 #8 Posted April 27, 2013 Marvin, this is the one I purchased http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ratchet-Style-Ratcheting-Crimp-Tool-Crimper-22-10-AWG-f-non-insulated-Terminals-/261199471351?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item3cd0b3a2f7 It has a 10 awg slot (which most crimpers do not) and is VERY heavy duty. The final price was around $30 if I remember correctly. The tool model # is LX-03B. If the seller listed is out of stock, a quick search for the model # on google should bring up a few other sellers. A quick note - THIS TOOL IS ONLY FOR AN UNINSULATED PACKARD 56 STYLE TERMINAL - INSULATED CRIMP TERMINALS REQUIRE A DIFFERENT STYLE JAW. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 952 #9 Posted May 4, 2013 Old, I ordered the crimper and it arrived today. It is quite heavy. Now for the terminals, should arrive probably Monday. I can then do a terminal on a wire. Kinda expensive to do a terminal Huh, Well I like to do it right. Not much on just make it do. Thanks Marvin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,568 #10 Posted May 4, 2013 Marvin, I bet you will see more than just the one terminal needs replacement once you note the difference between the old and the new terminals. Check out the terminals inside the ignition switch connector too. When all is said and done, you have the option of selling the crimpers in the classifieds. Dollar wise, the crimper I pointed out was the best $$ to performance value I ran across. Other crimpers run from $70 to $120 and don't really offer any distinct advantages other than they are made in the USA. I don't bash the USA thing but I have some made in the USA grandkids that need made in the USA sneakers every 6 months. So import tools can and do find their way into my (imported) tool chest. Also, this is a double crimper which crimps both the wire AND insulation into the terminal at the same time. When you look into the "teeth" of the crimper, you will notice each pair of teeth has 2 "levels", one shallow set and one deep set. The shallow set will produce more crush on the terminal tabs and is intended for the section of the terminal that crimps the wire. The deeper set will produce less crush and is intended for the tabs on the terminal which will crush around the insulation of the wire. Another issue which will require some experience is how far to insert the terminal into the jaws of the crimper. If the terminal is inserted too far, the jaws of the crimper can come down on the section of the terminal that expands out to form the push on part of the terminal. If you crimp with parts of the widened area in the crimper jaws, you will mangle the terminal and have to recrimp another new terminal. I will post a pic later to illustrate what I'm talking about. For now, here is a link describing good / bad crimping techniques http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/0808cct_1953_chevy_truck_ron_francis_wiring_kit_upgrade/photo_30.html 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,568 #11 Posted May 7, 2013 Marvin here are a few shots of a good and bad crimp This one shows the crimper jaws are not in contact with the area of the terminal that expands out from the flanges that crimp the wire. (click on the image to expand) This one shows the terminal sitting a little bit further inside the jaws of the crimper. When the jaws close, the edge of the jaws will distort the wider area of the terminal It is a small difference but if inserted too far into the crimper, the terminal will suffer distortion Good luck and ask more questions if you have any issues. Chuck 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
