Moldboard plow

[Iggy68 28]

I picked up a David Bradley 6" plow last summer. I paid 25 bucks for it. I rigged it up and used it to work up the back yard to plant new seed. I planned on reworking it this winter to make it bigger. Here is a pic of what I started with.

Here is where I'm at now which I have a few questions.

I think the bar in the next pic should be as close to vertical as possible. The square shows how far off it is.

So I think I need to do two things to correct this.

1. Cut some more out of the frog? I think that's what it is called. Like the square shows in this next pic.

2. I think I need to add to this bar.

Am I thinking right that it is necessary for the upright bar to be vertical and will this combination fix the issue?

All opinions welcome.

[Trouty56 567]

I think you have to remember the right side of the tractor is in the trench cut by the plow. Then the plow will be vertical.

Maybe I am reading this wrong too.....I don't have a plow so I should be quiet.......

Edited February 17, 2013 by Trouty56

[855ownerJoel 32]

I have the same plow that you started with. Sitting on the floor on mine the main beam, for lack of better names, is straight up and down (90 degrees to the floor).

[Dresden Guy 24]

I think you have to remember the right side of the tractor is in the trench cut by the plow. Then the plow will be vertical.

Maybe I am reading this wrong too.....I don't have a plow so I should be quiet.......

Iggy68,

This is the same question I was asking as I looked at your fabricated moldboard. I use a 10" Brinly (the attached pictures are of a WH plow), and the angle offset (from vertical to compensate for the wheel in the prior furrow) looks to be about 10° - 12°. If this angle isn't offet, the "rollover" of your furrow won't turn over the ground as much as preferred. I don't know if any of this makes any sense, but I tinkered around with my plow for several plowings (with 4 of my Amish friends - who plow a lot), and they are the ones who explained this whole "rollover" concept. There is good explanation at Brinly-Hardy if I recall correctly. Another item that I have on my plow is the coulter wheel which cuts the ground just ahead of the plow and helps plunge the plow on line.

I now take my C-160 w/ the 10" moldboard plow to my Amish friends, and they all want to drive my WHorse, and they don't have to borrow their neighbors pulling team of horses. I don't charge them for plowing, I just want to plow for the first 15 minutes, then they want to finish.

Turning over a plot of ground is the BEST "seat time" on a WH!!! IMHO!!! It won't be long, here in Ohio.

Steve aka Dresden Guy

[squonk 41,604]

Glad to see your getting some use out of that plow Steve! We need pics of the Amish on the Horse Here's a pic of a DB plow on the back of my 704

[Iggy68 28]

Squonk that pic helps me a bunch. Looks like I will be ok by the time I hook it up to the tractor. If it doesn't work I just work on it some more until it does. Thanks guys.

[6wheeler 635]

Here's an easy trick for you to use to check you plows plumb (for a lack of a better word). The tractor will be in a furrow on the right side while plowing (except for the initial cut). So figuring that furrow will be an average of about 4" deep, Put the plow on the tractor and drive the left rear up on a 4"x 4". Then drop the plow and it should look fairly plumb. On a side note, this also works to set your hitch depth as well. Good luck.

[Iggy68 28]

Finished up the refurb today. Think I will look for a coulter for it.

[dbartlett1958 96]

Nice job! Always good to have some attachments to play with.

[6wheeler 635]

That plow looks great. It almost looks to nice to use(but, I'd use it anyway). Good job.

[specialwheelhorse 174]

6 Wheeler's got the answer with the blocks thats the way I set my

8 inch Brinley. plow wide open in 2nd with a bunch of weight and ags

on a 702 and it works great !!!