fishingstararlake 1 #1 Posted February 16, 2013 I have a that is charge at 16.5 it will drop to 14 with the lights on. I put the charger on it so the battery is at full charge. cleaned the posts so the battery is not asking for it. Every thing I could find about the onans is not charging at all has any else seen this ? any help would be great Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #2 Posted February 16, 2013 Try running a ground wire from one of the mounting screws of the regulator directly to the battery negative. You could just do it with a jumper wire to see if it makes a difference. Sometimes the regulators dont get a good ground through all those sheetmetal bits. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishingstararlake 1 #3 Posted February 16, 2013 I didn't add that to my first post but already tryed that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #4 Posted February 16, 2013 I didn't add that to my first post but already tryed that. OK,- I'm out of knowledge now! Maybe Chuck (SOI) or someone else smart will see this an chime in. There is some troubleshooting info in the Onan manual, have you looked at that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbartlett1958 96 #5 Posted February 17, 2013 How are you measuring the voltage? The tractor gauge or a multimeter? Gauges are known to be off sometimes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishingstararlake 1 #6 Posted February 17, 2013 multimeter at the battery terminals Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #7 Posted February 17, 2013 Try this Engine OFF Ignition key in RUN Measure the DC voltage at the battery terminal - then move the meter probe from the (+) battery terminal to the B+ terminal on the rectifier regulator unit. With the ignition switch in the RUN position and the engine OFF - you should read the same battery voltage on the RR's B+ terminal, This assures you have a good connection from the battery thru the ignition switch to the output of the RR. The RR needs a good connection to "see" what the battery voltage is. Beyond a corroded wiring issue on the ignition switchor the RR wiring connector, the classic faults of the 520 charge system are the 9 pin connector on the engine harness and the fuse holders in the charge circuit. The fuse holders corrode and the 9 pin connectors corrode and melt. Check them too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Challenger 27 #8 Posted February 17, 2013 Both 520H's I had did the same thing. Overcharged but with lights on dropped to about 14. If I recall my dealer, (a good one), said not to worry about it if it stayed in that range. (I'm not a mechanic, what do I know!) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken B 3,164 #9 Posted February 17, 2013 How are you measuring the voltage? The tractor gauge or a multimeter? Gauges are known to be off sometimes. My 520 reads same overcharge as yours. I put a multimeter on it this past summer and the meter reads 14ish volts while the tractors gauge is reading over 16. I haven't done anything with it as I trust my multimeter and the tractor has been fine all this time. This June at the Big Show I'll try to find a new gauge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishingstararlake 1 #10 Posted February 17, 2013 I had 12.2 at battery and 11.98 RR's B+ terminal. my 9 pin melted a long time ago. I changed it to male and female pushon coneters. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishingstararlake 1 #11 Posted February 17, 2013 My multimeter reads the same as my gauge 16. I have to run my lights or frie my battery. I should of posted this sooner but this all started after jumping. It has a hard time starting at below 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #12 Posted February 17, 2013 I had 12.2 at battery and 11.98 RR's B+ terminal. Well... that's a (12.2 - 11.98) nearly half a volt drop over a very short run of wire. Some degree of corrosion in the wires at the RR and ignition switch might be an issue. If you can safely jumper a wire directly from the B+ terminal on the RR to the battery (+) terminal, that would eliminate wiring and possible ignition switch corrosion. Be safe here, as you will have a live wire right off the battery terminal and a whole bunch of grounds near the RR B+ terminal. Anything over 14.5 volts @ the battery will start to evaporate fill solution in the battery - possibly overheating the battery - warping the lead plates and eventually causing the battery to fail. A slightly high charge voltage is not so dangerous in cold weather as it would be in warmer weather. Slightly elevated charge voltage in cold weather actually helps a battery last longer. Failing all the test above, the evidence is starting to point to a failed RR unit. RR's are widely available on ebay for less than $30. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishingstararlake 1 #13 Posted February 17, 2013 I got 15.57 at the battery with both the jumper in place and with it out The test was done at 2200 rpm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tiggercl 28 #14 Posted February 17, 2013 Could this not be a symptom of a dodgy regulator / rectifier ? Paul Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #15 Posted February 17, 2013 Could this not be a symptom of a dodgy regulator / rectifier ? Paul Yes sir, I am now convinced that is the culprit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishingstararlake 1 #16 Posted February 17, 2013 what is a dodgy regulator? Looks like I might have fried the regulator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #17 Posted February 17, 2013 dodgey = a polite way of saying defective Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishingstararlake 1 #18 Posted February 18, 2013 found a replacment for 20 bucks on ebay thanks for your help Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishingstararlake 1 #19 Posted February 23, 2013 replaced my dodgy r/r today. that was it Thanks for the help Dan 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #20 Posted February 23, 2013 Lots of good Sparky "stuff" here. Thank all for the replies. I'm marking this post for reading as I restore the 520-8 20hp Onan I recently acquired. Thanks again all. :smile: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #21 Posted March 2, 2013 Glad to be of some assistance. Seems like this particular style of RR unit tends to overcharge when they fail. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites