Raider 10 reverse and 1st not working

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Raider - where are you in NY? If you are close to the Thruway Exit 28 area, I can drop by if you need help.

[rmaynard 15,610]

ohh and by the way does any one know where i can get a new gear shift lever and lever boot?!?!??

A new gear shift lever will cost you over $75.00. I have several good used ones, plus I also have brand new shift knobs and boots. PM me.

Don't use Bondo. It won't hold up inside the transmission.

[raider10-8 9]

i have the 8 speed transmission. ohh and the axle diameter im not sure, i wil look when i go home. and well for the pics ill take some pics of what i have done so far. but im going to split the case this weekend. sooo thats when the pics ur looking for will go up.

[raider10-8 9]

Raider - where are you in NY? If you are close to the Thruway Exit 28 area, I can drop by if you need help.

im in Long island

[stevasaurus 22,872]

Raider...here is link to rebuilding an 8 sped transmission...shows how to tackle the hi/low part of it.

Bob, yes, I still use the 5 gallon carboy crate (wine crate)...works great and it looks used. :bow-blue:

Edited February 12, 2013 by stevasaurus

[raider10-8 9]

ok guys here are some pics. couple of questions tho does any one know where i can get a new dash or dash decals because the dash is good but rusty. and also a new steering wheel and front light cover and for how much. and for the pic of the shifter lever thats what i meant by shot.

heres the last pic couldnt fit it

[stevasaurus 22,872]

Looks like you may have a stuck hub...you can make a puller with your other hub...

Looks like your problem is not rust, looking down the hole. Vinylguy has decals...Kelly may have your light lens...Maynard said he had some spare shifters. Looks like you are good to go when you get that hub off. Take a file and file any burrs on the ends of the shafts Nice pictures and horse...you are looking good. :)

[rmaynard 15,610]

I can see why you want a new shifter. That one was definitely hit with an ugly stick.

[raider10-8 9]

I can see why you want a new shifter. That one was definitely hit with an ugly stick.

haha yaa, right??

Looks like you may have a stuck hub...you can make a puller with your other hub...

Looks like your problem is not rust, looking down the hole. Vinylguy has decals...Kelly may have your light lens...Maynard said he had some spare shifters. Looks like you are good to go when you get that hub off. Take a file and file any burrs on the ends of the shafts Nice pictures and horse...you are looking good.

thanks cant wait to split the case and get her back together so i can start the restoration and drive it around a little. and what is kellys user name for the lights.... is it kely?

[raider10-8 9]

ohh and i forgot to tell you i have a 1" axle diameter

[puddlejumper 67]

He goes by Kelly, PM him he is also in the vendors section. He is johny on the spot and chances are he will swing through here eventually.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Raider - where are you in NY? If you are close to the Thruway Exit 28 area, I can drop by if you need help.

im in Long island

Make sure you have some electrical issues or want to paint the tractor in the summer - when the stripers (or it that strippers ?) are running. Either way, I can be there in 3 hours !!

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

One of the most talked about areas in the transaxle is the HI LO shift fork area. The metal shifter fork can snap off the shifter arm. If you inspect the HI LO shifter area of the trans with a strong flashlight and a magnetic retriever, you may find this area damaged or broken. Stray metal bits in the gearing may be the root cause of your "clicking".

To allow closeup inspection of the HI LO area, both the R / 1 and the 2 / 3 shifter forks will need to be removed. Both shifters are detented and indexed by 2 spring loaded ball bearings held within the boss BETWEEN the shifter forks. The 2 ball bearings, compression spring and shift pin (held within the body of the spring) are not captured in the boss. The ball bearings will fly from their home when the shift levers are pulled from the boss.

In your travels this week, pick up 2 or 3 spare 1/4" ball bearings for possible replacement in the shifter mechanisms. There are 2 in the speed selector forks and 1 in the HI LO range shifter.

If you prefer to obtain parts from the dealer - this will help.

Pick up a magnetic retriever and a standard 1 or 2 inch kitchen refrigerator magnet.

Once you remove the sealing plug in this access port, place a kitchen magnet over the port or insert a magnetic retriever into the port before extracting the shifter forks. The ball bearing will retained in the magnet and not end up under a pile of oil stained wine crates on your work room floor. Just saying.

If you do not extract 2 balls from the shifter arrangement, they may have fallen into the case. Find them, they need to be accounted for.

From this point on, the gear stacks are easily disassembled and damage - if any - will be obvious.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

does any one know where i can get a new dash or dash decals

A member here does masterful work reproducing decals

check here

http://www.redoyourhorse.com/servlet/StoreFront

[raider10-8 9]

yaa i saw that site before im defiantly going to get my decals from that site.

[raider10-8 9]

ohh and does any one know where i can get an engine cover or cowl. because mine is rotted out on the bottom. i works but dosent look pretty

[stevasaurus 22,872]

Axle seals for the 1" axles are SKF 9815. Wheel Horse # 1232.

[raider10-8 9]

thanks .... know where i can get a new hub... broke it while trying to get it off.

[stevasaurus 22,872]

Hit up Kelly when you hit him up for the lens...hubs are easy. I had to cut one off with a 4" grinder a few months ago...tried everything...just was not going to happen. At least that hitch pin came out for ya. You may try hitting up "jdog_kustoms" also. He is a vender here from Penn. :)

[raider10-8 9]

ok guys well i slipt the case today and found some interesting stuff. a lot of sludge on the bottom and the 2 gears that are most likely the problem. im trying to post the pictures but i am having a lot of trouble. they should be up by tonight. the 2 gears that i need are the gear cluster # 7269 i belive and gear reverse idler #4204..... any body have them???

[raider10-8 9]

heres the pics

[stevasaurus 22,872]

Raider, I don't see anything in the pictures that says, "this is the problem". The reverse idler looks good, hard to tell on the cluster gear (it is not that worn) except the left side in the pics looks a little ruff. Got some rust going on for sure. Need to clean it all up to really see what you got. I would not just go buying parts until we get a good look at it. You could send a PM to (racinfool40) to see if he has any of the spare parts you need. As far as I know, he is your best bet on parts. He may even have a spare transmission also.

[raider10-8 9]

yaa i know sorry i dont know how to put the txt next to the pic. but the reverse idler gear is a little warn/smushed on the top of the gears. and the gear cluster like u said on the left is a little rough. but my brother said if i take the time and clean it really good i could probably put it back together and it would work. but the top shifter fork (1st and rev, which is where i had the problem) was stuck in and we had to pry it out with a pry bar so that might have been the problem.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

The worn / smushed areas on the reverse idler and some gears on the countershaft are just evidence of someone trying to shift without allowing the trans inners to reach a full stop. When you hear gears grinding in an unsynchronized trans, you now know what happens to the trans internals. The chocolate cream filling you found is normal for gear lube exposed to water over the years.

The smushed areas on the edges of the gears can be cleaned up with a small jewelers file. Don't try to correct the taper of the gear ends but don't be afraid to deburr any interference in the valleys between gear teeth (both on the reverse idler and the countershaft gears. If you have a bench grinder with a wire wheel, finish off the deburring by allowing the wirewheel to travel parallel to the teeth to put a final smooth finish on the gears. Inspect all the gears for any loose rust flakes which may be stuck in the gear teeth valley.

To address your main issue, concentrate more on general cleanup and the movement of the shifter forks than the condition of the gears. To resolve the restricted travel of the shifter forks, soak the shifter forks and all loose components in either lacquer thinner or paint thinner. You will be surprised how much easier the gears mesh once they are cleaned up. The shifter forks can also be cleaned on a wire wheel. The polished areas near the shifter rail detents may require a further cleanup with metal polish. The holes which support the shifter forks should also be cleaned with spray brake cleaner or carb cleaner. If the inner surfaces of the shift fork holes are rusted, they can be polished out with metal polish on a rag. Get those holes clean and shiny so the shifter forks glide thru the holes without any resistance. The last one I refurbed required polishing with a dremel tool / felt rotary pad / FLITZ metal polish combo.

Reassemble the shifter forks using new detent ball bearings, spring and shaft spacer rod. You will notice the shifter forks will now move between detent positions with just a bump from a screwdriver instead of requiring a prybar.

Don't forget to disassemble the HI LO shifter detent assy and clean all the internal components.

Spray brake cleaner inside the roller bearings and slowly rotate the bearings. You will be surprised on the amount of schmutz that comes out of the bearings. Spray brake cleaner into the large bearings that support the differential / axles. Rotate the ball bearings back and forth to remove any hidden oil buildup. Once the brake cleaner runs clean from the bearing assemblies, place a few drops of gear lube into the bearings and rotate the bearings to lube the balls and race. You will need to determine if these bearings are in decent shape. If not, replacements will cost upward of $140 for the two. They are a "Toro only" piece and the price reflects that fact.

At this stage of your repair, elbow grease and brake cleaner are your best hope of recovering this trans. Even if someone sends you gears (which may be very close to the condition of the ones you removed) you still need to invest significant time into cleanup.

[raider10-8 9]

well i think i found part of the problem. 1st of i would like to say i posted better pics of the cluster gear and y i am not and my bro will not let me use it.  and when i took the pinion gear cover off i found little pieces of the washer and the washer was broken and all over the inside. so im going to wash out the whole assembly. then im going to need to get a gear cluster and that washer which im not sure what it is called.