Down pressure on snowblade

[bigfkd22 11]

Per the manual I need part 7706 to be able to hold down pressure when plowing. Has anybody used this? Does it work well? Problems? Anybody know were I can get one at a decent price? Thanks

d

[Dresden Guy 24]

I think I'm right in saying, P/N 7706 is merely a piece of steel with the dimensions of: 1½" W X 12" L X ¼" Thick. On each end of the "bar" is a lug, approx. ½" L X ¼" dia.. Hope this makes some sense.

It's just a piece of bar steel with lugs at right angles on each end, to go through the blade lift hole and the other through the tractor lift lever. In other words, you can either lift the blade with the regular piece of chain (which obviously has no down force) or replace the chain with the "lift bar", which allows down force..... within limits. You can't do much "bulldozing" with it, but it does pretty well. You could very easily make your own, and if I recall there is a drawing/sketch in one of the RS posts, with the exact dimensions.

Hope this is what you're looking for. If need, I will find mine in the barn and measure it and send pics.

Steve (aka Dresden Guy)

[Butch 194]

Wow, it's $55.00 from RCPW. You do see them on Ebay from time to time and yes people on here have fabricated their own.

[bigfkd22 11]

55 bucks for a 12 inch strip of metal? Crazy. I use to plow with a manual lift john deere gt235. I could lock the blade down and it would do a really go job of removing all the snow. My c-161 can really push the snow but it dosent get down to the pavement which is what I am looking for. My problem is I really dont have any of the tools needed for fabrication. I looked on ebay and no luck.

d

ps thanks for the help!

[Butch 194]

55 bucks for a 12 inch strip of metal? Crazy. I use to plow with a manual lift john deere gt235. I could lock the blade down and it would do a really go job of removing all the snow. My c-161 can really push the snow but it dosent get down to the pavement which is what I am looking for. My problem is I really dont have any of the tools needed for fabrication. I looked on ebay and no luck.

d

ps thanks for the help!

You could put some wait on the plow frame. We haven't had much snow this year but I did just plow 6" of wet stuff and my plow went all the way down to the asphalt. And I don't have it locked down. I use a chain for the lift mechanism. Some people think the weight of the plow is heavy enough and don't need to lock it down.

[Wyattrrp 59]

I have a chain to lift the plow so no down pressure on mine. Replacing that chain with a solid bar will make the lift handle, if not hydro, move up and down when the plow floats over any driveway uneven areas.

A number of posts on here say you can lift the front tires off the ground by hand down pressure with the solid bar link discussed above. The lugs mentioned in that bar could be 1" x 1/4 inch short bolts so all you would need is the long bar with a 1/4" hole drilled near each end and 2 1" bolts. Just need a drill and hacksaw to make one buying the barstock at TSC for under $15. The lugs are normally welded in the holes and have a small hole to slip a cotterpin or hitch pin to make it easier to connect it to the lift arm. Double nuts or crimped nut on the 1" 1/4 bolts would work instead of welding the bolt in the holes as lugs. Or as Butch said, add some weights to the plow frame between the blade and front axle.

My plow scrapes down to pavement no problem. Is your blade vertical and the cutter bar in good shape? My 48" blade upper cross bar that the springs attach to is in the 2nd from top holes out of 4 holes. If the bar and springs is through the bottom hole and the blade is tipped forward quite a bit, it might skip over the snow instead of cutting in to pavement.

Wyatt

[ericj 1,578]

what hole is the trip springs in should be 1 down from the top that will make a difference in how well your blade scrapes the black top

eric j

[bigfkd22 11]

Thanks. It was on the top hole I will move it down and see if that helps. I think I can get a hole drilled in barstock then use screws to hold it in place. Thanks for the advice. I have a c-161 and c-160 both hydros so Im not sure I need to lift the tires off the ground I just want it to plow as good as my john deere did. On a side note I used my c-160 with my brevac 2 stage blower for the first time in about 3-4 inches of snow today......awesome!

Thanks!

d

[leeave96 487]

FWIW - some of those solid links have a bit of a zig-zag shape to them - which makes it a nicer fit-up than just the straight solid link. I've got both and like the zig-zag one. I've never used either with a front blade, but have with the 50 inch mid-mount grader blade.

Thanks!

Bill

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

The pins in the lift link are 3/8"

@bigfkd22:

Any welding / fab shops in your area? What about a vocational / technical school or college?

You should be able to have a solid link made for $20 or less.

[Dresden Guy 24]

These are a couple RS posts with a picture of the actual link and how it's installed, and a second post about the hole arrangement to use for attaching the link. Hope these help.

http://www.wheelhors...?showtopic=5067

http://www.wheelhors...?showtopic=1187

Steve (aka Dresden Guy)

[Butch 194]

Thanks. It was on the top hole I will move it down and see if that helps. I think I can get a hole drilled in barstock then use screws to hold it in place. Thanks for the advice. I have a c-161 and c-160 both hydros so Im not sure I need to lift the tires off the ground I just want it to plow as good as my john deere did. On a side note I used my c-160 with my brevac 2 stage blower for the first time in about 3-4 inches of snow today......awesome!

Thanks!

d

<p>You can buy a 42" bar for $35 from Ebay with free shipping. I think that is a fair price. I don't think we're allowed to post a link so do a search for "

[Trouty56 565]

I don't like a solid link with my hydro unless I am moving dirt. It is easy to tear something up if the blade won't raise when needed or miss an area if it won't lower when needed. It really needs to float. Using the manual lift is no problem.

[Butch 194]

Wow, talk about

Thanks. It was on the top hole I will move it down and see if that helps. I think I can get a hole drilled in barstock then use screws to hold it in place. Thanks for the advice. I have a c-161 and c-160 both hydros so Im not sure I need to lift the tires off the ground I just want it to plow as good as my john deere did. On a side note I used my c-160 with my brevac 2 stage blower for the first time in about 3-4 inches of snow today......awesome!

Thanks!

d

<p>You can buy a 42" bar for $35 from Ebay with free shipping. I think that is a fair price. I don't think we're allowed to post a link so do a search for " wheel horse snow blade"

[bigfkd22 11]

I found a wear edge but not a down pressure "lift" for 35. Unless I'm looking at the wrong thing cause I would def buy it for that.

[bigfkd22 11]

I guess I'm going to try and make one. Thanks you guys are great.

[chevrat68 19]

Get some flat stock from the hardware store and drill some holes, get some bolts washes and locknuts. That's all I did. I did oblong one hole so it would have some float. Good luck

[ericj 1,578]

be careful with down pressure on a mower deck you will push the deck down and damage the deck. i would suggest if you use the solid bar for the snow plow and plan on using the tractor for mowing REMOVE the solid lift bar or you will regret it ask me how i know

eric j

[bigfkd22 11]

Update I made a down pressure bar and got it on this weekend. I need to learn how to post pics nothing special but it works. Thanks for all your help!!!