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illinilefttackle

STRANGE BUT TRUE!

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illinilefttackle

:whistle: Hey Guys!-I got the engine together today. The only thing was-when I turned it over by hand-it would rotate 350 degrees and jam-stop turning. Then if you went the other way-it would go around to the same spot then stop. I really think the side of the rod was hitting the bore skirt. When "MOOSE" my "wrestler" grandson came home-I showed him. He turned it abruptly and it passed that point and went on around. Now when I try it -it works fine -no contact with anything.

I wonder it some loc-tite hardened on the rod or something?

Anybody got any ideas? -AL B)

Pics as soon as I can get them into Photo-Bucket

Here are the pics-

This is the head after machining and 2 new valves

Photo002.jpg

Engine straight from the machine shop

Photo003.jpg

engine showing boring and valve job

Photo005.jpg

Pan after going thru my parts cleaner

Photo013.jpg

Engine after painting-waiting on Crankshaft and bearings

Photo015.jpg

Bearings ready to go in

Photo019.jpg

Governor Gear ready to go in

Photo020.jpg

Governor gear&lifters& Cam installed

Photo021.jpg

Crank in-timing set

New Rod&Piston&rings installed

Photo024.jpg

Photo022.jpg

Engine done except for seals&touch up painting

Photo025.jpg

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sorekiwi

Doesnt sound right to me.

Do you know where the engine stopped turning? If it was near TDC, BDC or mid stroke? At what point did it start hitting something? Was it ok until you put the pan on , for example?

I'd prpbably take the pan off again and have a look...

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nylyon

Me too, I would take the pan off just to be sure. It wouldn't be good if you started it up and things started to break on you.

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illinilefttackle

Thanks Guys for the reply-It happened when I had the pan on, all buttoned up. Then I tried to turn it by hand-you know just to check-then it stopped. Heck -not being a WH expert ,I thought I had the pan on backwards or something,you know, the splasher on the rod. So I took the pan off-like you say-it still stopped. I shined a light down ithere-couldn't see a thing-it would stop about 1/4th revolution around from TDC, when the side of the rod passes really close to the bore skirt, on the side away from the cam. Turn it oppiste and it would go back around to the same place,where the rod is near that side of the bore, I thought i saw a tiny nick in the side of the rod-like it was touching there,but my eyes aren't the greatest anymore.

I wasn't turning it too hard-when my older grandson turned it ,he turned it harder-and it went all the way around-no contact-no "thunk" noise.

I went back and checked all the steps of assembly-oil hole on rod facing cam, piston on rod shouldnt make a diff which way-the piston is uniform. Nothing getting in the gears, etc. Now when you turn it even gently there is no noise, no contact.

My concern is if its OK to run this way, or will it get worse as it heats up?

ANYBODY-input?-AL B)

Picture above showing the rod installed is the positon it stopped in.

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sorekiwi

Looking at where the interferance is, it seems likely that the rod is kissing the side of the bore. If this is the case, I think it will be worse when it gets hot. That aluminum rod will expand quite a bit.

Maybe there is a little bit of "casting flash" on that side of the rod? Is this the original rod, or an aftermarket replacement? Maybe your grandson just scraped off the offending "lump" when he turned it.

B) I dont know what to tell you. If I wanted to use the motor this afternaoon, I might run it as it is. If I'd invested a lot of time and money in this project I'd have another look, even pop the piston out again to grind a little clearance on the side of the rod. Then again, Ive had a K181 throw a rod out the side recently, so maybe I'm just paranoid...

By the way, a "ding" on the side of a con rod is a bad stress raiser, and with the rods in these things being a little marginal to start with, I think I'd be polishing the mark out...

Good luck and let us know what happens.

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illinilefttackle

It was flashing on the side of the rod that hadnt been grinded down. I tore it down , trimed it off and put it back-I wrote a lengthy reply earlier but it wouldnt post-I too tired now-check back later-Thanks-AL

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sorekiwi

Good job, I know its a PITA now, but it'll give you piece of mind for years to come. B)

Note to self: have a look at this clearance next time you put an engine together.

You know that if it just kissed the side now, with a bore that has been enlarged, it would've hit pretty hard on a standard bore.

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Teddy da Bear

Sleep tight Al......some RS elves will rebuild it for you tonight. B)

I would think that you could disassemble and put a colored marking (grease pencil) where you suspect the "rub" is happening. Put it back together and turn the crank a couple of times. Take it apart and see if that color marking got rubbed.

It is a process of trial and error.

Best luck to you buddy...

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big mike

Al,double check that the rod is on the piston in the correct orientation.Don't quote me but I thought the rod was offset and that would account for the close clearance.Plus the way the rod is installed affects oiling too.

Sorry to have you running back and forth but I sure would hate to have any problems down the road.

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illinilefttackle

Al,double check that the rod is on the piston in the correct orientation.Don't quote me but I thought the rod was offset and that would account for the close clearance.Plus the way the rod is installed affects oiling too.

Sorry to have you running back and forth but I sure would hate to have any problems down the road.

Big Mike- The piston is uniform, I looked at it to see if there was a certain way to orientate to the rod. The rod has little round "risers" (remnants of gas risers in the sand casting) on just one side-2 on the rod-1 on the cap-same side-I checked it when I installed it on the piston.

Then I found the oil hole in the cap-and installed the piston & rod so that the oil hole was facing the cam.

Man I hope this is right-

Anyone else Know for sure?-AL B)

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